TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Never even considered that. I’d say that’s a huge plus in my book.
Cylinder head dyno shoot out
- Thread starter NC Engine Builder
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NC Engine Builder
Grumpy Old Man
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After they get thermal cleaned it literally cooks out all oil and moisture in the iron, flash rust is a big concern. And most of these engines are just hobby engines, not daily driven so I figure any corrosion prevention is a good thing.
PRH
Well-Known Member
That was my thought as wellUTG swinging by to video?
Sorry I couldn't resist the softball toss there.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I sent you a PM. It basically says I’m an idiot and and asshat, which you already knew.
Check your PM’s though.
Conclusion: I suck buttermilk
PRH
Well-Known Member
Any updates?
Earlie A
Well-Known Member
I've had a couple of conversations with Jim at Racer Brown recently. He is waiting on final flow numbers and compression ratios before grinding the cam. Those specs should go to Jim next week. With chamber volumes ranging from 60cc to 71+cc and port volumes ranging from 193cc to 208cc, some compromises will have to be made. The most likely scenario is opening up the TF and the Shocker chambers to 65-68cc range and milling the Bloomers to match. Hard to do a true apples to apples comparison with such a disparity in chamber volumes. Therefore, none of the heads will be truly 'stock', but it's what must be done. Otherwise the 60cc TF chamber would dictate the cam specs. I've been grinding/testing on an extra TF head for the last week. Most of my testing on the ProMaxx is already complete.
@NC Engine Builder is progressing with the short block work. He's waiting on me more than anything.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
Are these the cnc’d Shocker 185’s or the standard sized 171cc port version that you are working over?
Earlie A
Well-Known Member
Both. If a PBR head doesn’t materialize, I’ve been working on a set of 171’s ported out to 205-212cc with a 2.08 valve.
gzig5
Well-Known Member
Cool. Interested how either/both of them turn out. NC Engine Builder got some nice gains out of my PM 171’s without a lot of effort, but it will be interesting to see what they’ll do with a big valve and a skilled touch.
Edit to add…not a comment on the gains we got. He got more than I expected with a “get what you can easily, don’t go crazy” ask.
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I blee dat, burr finish the planet.
It's really good with salt.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Yes , yes we do love pictures! Looks like we have extremely similar equipment. Just a suggestion here----Figure out how to linehone "upside down". It goes so much better and quicker and it turns out much much more accurate and its even "rounder". Looking good!. J.Rob
RAMM
Well-Known Member
I've thought about (and tested) the tray type windage tray vs. the screen type windage tray theory. Some people believe the solid tray type --the oil will bounce off of it and throw the oil back onto the crank worse than without a tray at all. I've always thought of the water balloon fights I've been in (lol) and remember having many balloons bounce off of people and not break . But throw a balloon at a chain link fence and it breaks every single time. I think of a oil droplet the same as a water balloon and "see" the oil returning to the bottom surface of the oil pan with a screen type much more efficiently vs. a solid tray type. I'm pretty sure screens work better than solid trays. As for polishing and Glyptol--I don't give a crap about polishing--too little ROI, but Glyptol is fast and I believe achieves the same thing. In the end it looks so professional and I've never seen it come off when the cast iron is prepped and clean correctly. Oh and liquid on a smooth surface will flow faster than a rough surface IF there is enough volume. Kevin is thinking about a couple of drops of water on window pane I think. A little bit of water on the window at first and yes the water takes time to start its way down the window--we've all seen this- once there is a ton of water it flows like a river. I've tested it and a screen type tray is more effective than a solid tray type at returning oil to the pan. <<Caveat--This is what I observed when I tested it. Cool build. J.Rob
RAMM
Well-Known Member
I was unaware of any of your videos. Where can people find your content? When you say equipment--Do you mean video equipment or machine shop equipment? Inquiring minds....J.Rob
NC Engine Builder
Grumpy Old Man
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It's funny you say that, I have been thinking that since I bought the line hone. Seems counter-intuitive to cut the caps, then hone with the mandrel weight laying in the block.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
I took the time years ago when I had a VERY serious customer bring me an aluminum Buick TA block with billet steel caps at the time it cost 10,000 CDN. No joke this friggin block was 10k unfinished. I thought about it and thought about it and I just couldn't see how the mandrel wouldn't hone more out of the aluminum than the much harder main caps. I built the fixture you see here and the job turned out perfect. I would have ruined the block had I attempted it the conventional way. In fact I was just watching a Steve Morris video and I was shocked to see his guy line honing a Brodix aluminum BBC for "Cleetus" the normal way. I could see in the video and the way it was edited how he fought and fought and it definately didn't turn out great at all. I was shocked because I consider SM highly intelligent and intuitive... I charge more for it this way than the traditional way because it is a PITA..but sometimes the longway is the shortway---IYKYK. J.Rob
p.s. Here's a picture of how I made my fixturing<<NC. J.Rob
NC Engine Builder
Grumpy Old Man
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Got a picture of a block mounted in the fixture?
RAMM
Well-Known Member
But of course...Fixturing/workholding is 99% of successful machining IME. J.Rob
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
In the same conversation or a similar one with Kevin at IJ, he said the best trays are a combination of solid and screen.
Someone on here with a small block and a gear drive took a Milodon solid tray and put screen in it where the tray is covering the rod throws.
I can’t think of the members name now, but he had really good pictures of it. And that’s how I’m going to do mine.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
At this point we are talking about 2 different things--It is a combination of a (solid) crank scraper and a (screen) type windage tray. This arrangement is quite effective. J.Rob
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
I wish I could find those pictures. I’m talking about a solid tray with screen in it.
That’s different than a crank scraper.
I can’t think of his name.
Edit: he might be a power adder guy.
Edit II: I think it’s Matts440. Now I have to find the pictures
RAMM
Well-Known Member
We're talking about the same thing LOL--A solid tray is supposed to be fitted close enough to the rotating assembly as to ACT as a crank scraper which does work, however the addition of the screen in key areas does allow the oil to return to the sump more efficiently and NOT bounce back up into the rotator. The very best combination is a dedicated crank scraper which IHJ is probably the best at--and a properly designed screen type tray. I've had solid style trays actually produce rear main leaks they were so good at throwing the oil up and at the rear main--overloading it. J.Rob
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