cylinder head question?/AGAIN

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this is a good setup
KB162 Flat top pistons set to ZERO deck
452 bowl ported heads w/2.14/1.81 valves
intake of your choice
Hughes 2328 hydraulic cam
 
there outta stock and who knows when they'll get more. check there web page under cylinder heads. heads no longer listed i dont think.

check out mrperformanceparts.com for a smoking deal on a bb mopar cylinder head package. kind of sinks the 440sourse deal way down deep.
 
Well, at least there printing corrections.

The offending mag never printed a correction , the correction came from another mag from a different company , plus at least one big name tech author denied the numbers were inflated many times when others said the numbers to them were inflated.

The outing came when the other mag decided to use a new facility for it's engine dyno contests. The year we did the contest thru moparts the engine that was the top dog at the prelim we were at gained 50 or 60 hp on the west coast dyno with absolutely NO CHANGES done to the engine .
 
this is a good setup
KB162 Flat top pistons set to ZERO deck
452 bowl ported heads w/2.14/1.81 valves
intake of your choice
Hughes 2328 hydraulic cam

That KB piston is a piece of garbage , it's .024 in the hole on a factory blueprint block and it has HUGE valve reliefs , at zero deck you need a head under 80cc to get any compression out of it.

The speedpro forged is better , but still too deep for my taste.

The best piston would be a Diamond , square deck your block then give the deck height to a Diamond WD and ask them to do a semi custom on the shelf stock , change the CH to get the piston at zero , or .015 above the deck if you are using an open chamber head, and add their std 4cc valve relief . Use this with an 80 cc head and a steel shim gasket and get a vey close to 10.0 compression .

It's hard to get a decent compression ratio with a 383 because of the small bore and short stroke .
 
Thanks john, what were the dyno machines? What ones are OK and best these days?
 
Thanks john, what were the dyno machines? What ones are OK and best these days?

The dyno is superflow , remember a dyno is just a tool , use it for what it is , a load testing and tuning tool .

The real dyno is the dragstrip , ET and MPH and the cars weight tell the REAL story .

There's a big name ship in the mid west witha very HAPPY dyno , numbers are 100 plus inflated , engines that dynoed at 900 hp got the cars they were in only into the 10's .
 
The dyno is superflow , remember a dyno is just a tool , use it for what it is , a load testing and tuning tool .

Agreed, 100% But it's also nice to get an idea. Theres so many methods to make this calculation.

The real dyno is the dragstrip , ET and MPH and the cars weight tell the REAL story .
Agreed 100% Still hopin to me you and the crew at the track.


There's a big name ship in the mid west witha very HAPPY dyno , numbers are 100 plus inflated , engines that dynoed at 900 hp got the cars they were in only into the 10's .
Now that's screwed up. LOL!
 
sad to hear they are inflating dyno numbers, I was surprised how much power it made but a 383 is a mopar so I gave it the benefit of the dowbt.
dustya-383 are you shore you want 500+hp from a 383? a backyard built 383 with one of the cams these guys hav recomended will be a mild, cruzzi 370-380hp.
A 500+hp 383 is gonna hav to be Wild :snakeman: for me i'd love a monster cammed, ally headed 383 duster with a 4speed, but is that what you want?
 
Thanks bob ill check it out, . . . .guess I won't be using kb pistons if they're no good but timopar, I haveno choice now but to have that much hp haha everyone I know is gonna be puttin up. Some good numbers and there's a guy I work with, with a 383 stroked nova can't let a chevy guy be the top dawg haha but no really 500+ would make me a happy man. this sb 360 just isn't gettin it done for me haha
 
Just remember that the Chevy 383 is a long stroke engine and your 383 is a short stroke engne and will need to be handled differently in the way you gear it and when getting a stall converter for it.

Your weight problem should also be addressed. Your drive train will out weigh his by a decent margin I think.
 
Ok ill definitely take that into consideration , I was thinkin of trying to take as much weight off the car as possible. Such as pass. Seat. Switch rear bumper to 72 , get as much aluminum on the motor as well plus maybe a tko 5 speed. Or a 6 speed
 
Sell bumpers, roll money over back into fiberglass bumpers.
 
Move the battery into the trunk. It's not going to save any weight but it will get it off the front of the car.
 
Both of those are great ideas will do watever I can to get the weight to therear wheels would it be a good idea to put a set of weak shocks in the rear to help transfer the weight??? I've heard of some racers doin this would it be ok for a car that won't see much track but more street
 
If you run drag shocks or adjustable shocks up front, your driving the street will take a turn to a more conservitive manor since the shocks give way more than a set of normal shocks. Also, the lack of a sway bar up front will save weight and turning will be takeing an easier route.

A drag like set up is a 50/50 up front and a 90/10 at the rear
 
well he can have the adj. ones set for street then switch when he wants to run the car
 
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