Cylinder hone or bore oversize?

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Well, dropped her off at the machine shop yesterday. They are going to tank it, install new cam bearings, hone it, clean the crank, lightly polish it,clean the pistons and rods, etc. He said it wouldn't take much. Oh yeah, b/c it wasn't my engine to begin with, I'm having them magna flux the block too. Should be done by next week. Yay!
 
ValiantOne said:
Well, dropped her off at the machine shop yesterday. They are going to tank it, install new cam bearings, hone it, clean the crank, lightly polish it,clean the pistons and rods, etc. He said it wouldn't take much. Oh yeah, b/c it wasn't my engine to begin with, I'm having them magna flux the block too. Should be done by next week. Yay!
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nice. are they going to use a torque plate for the honing?
 
I think so...... Now that you mention it.... I asked him if he needed the head bolts and he said no, that they had their own bolts they use with the torque plates.

I guess that means they will use them. But now I'm going to call to be sure!
 
ValiantOne said:
I think so...... Now that you mention it.... I asked him if he needed the head bolts and he said no, that they had their own bolts they use with the torque plates.

I guess that means they will use them. But now I'm going to call to be sure!
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cool. it will make a difference in ring seal, and power. Why waste compression and power?
 
I opted for an overbore . I would think piston rock will shorten ring life a bunch, but then it sounds like this will be a low use situation, so good enough. You might be able to sell it when you are ready to put that striker in,,,,,,,,, sounds like you have plenty of time to scrounge another core and parts while you enjoy this one
 
gregsdart said:
I opted for an overbore . I would think piston rock will shorten ring life a bunch, but then it sounds like this will be a low use situation, so good enough. You might be able to sell it when you are ready to put that striker in,,,,,,,,, sounds like you have plenty of time to scrounge another core and parts while you enjoy this one
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I plan on using the same block for the stroker when I do it. Unless i find a reason not to!
 
make sure the machine shop, if they dont reinstall the oil gallery plugs they remove, they at least give you all the plugs back, AND instruct you where they go so you can replace them all. Missing oil plugs and resultant poor oil pressure is one of the recurring problems we see on this site. That, timing chain issues and hydraulic lifter preload issues. You may be able to search prior threads regarding those things
 
rustycowll69 said:
make sure the machine shop, if they dont reinstall the oil gallery plugs they remove, they at least give you all the plugs back, AND instruct you where they go so you can replace them all. Missing oil plugs and resultant poor oil pressure is one of the recurring problems we see on this site. That, timing chain issues and hydraulic lifter preload issues. You may be able to search prior threads regarding those things
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Thank you rustycowll. I actually removed all the npt and press in oil plugs prior to taking it to the machine shop. The only one I left in is the one that is way up there under the main cap. And took pics of where they all went and in labeled baggies.

The timing chain stuff I'll have to look for. It'll be my first time degreeing a cam. Even though i replaced a ton of timing chains as a chrysler dealer mechanic in the 90's! We just lined 'em up and put them in. No degreeing at all.
 
ValiantOne said:
I plan on using the same block for the stroker when I do it. Unless i find a reason not to!
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I was thinking it might profit you some to keep the current build in the car while you build the stroker, provided it would turn a profit doing so. I am not sure how that would work out, it would depend on what you had to spend on machine work and parts the first time around and what you could get for it.
 
Got the block, crank pistons and rods back today. I'm pretty pleased so far. The tanking didn't take off all the paint, but it is clean! Pistons and rods are squeaky clean. The crank polish looks great. Magnaflux was okay. He only took .0015 while honing. It was honed with torque plates. He said all in all it is still a very tight engine. Now to get some rings, bearings, freeze plugs etc!
 
ValiantOne said:
Got the block, crank pistons and rods back today. I'm pretty pleased so far. The tanking didn't take off all the paint, but it is clean! Pistons and rods are squeaky clean. The crank polish looks great. Magnaflux was okay. He only took .0015 while honing. It was honed with torque plates. He said all in all it is still a very tight engine. Now to get some rings, bearings, freeze plugs etc!
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sounds great.
 
OP, I believe that you are doing right by taking measurements. After you take the measurements, you can determine if an overbore is necessary. IMO, I wouldnt overbore unless I determined that it was required, as in the standard piston to bore clearance is excessive. To bore .030 over just because is a waste of the block. Save it for when it needs it. These engines can be rebuilt multiple times when being conservative, but the blocks can only be bored over so much. Again just my $.02
 
Dartswinger70 said:
OP, I believe that you are doing right by taking measurements. After you take the measurements, you can determine if an overbore is necessary. IMO, I wouldnt overbore unless I determined that it was required, as in the standard piston to bore clearance is excessive. To bore .030 over just because is a waste of the block. Save it for when it needs it. These engines can be rebuilt multiple times when being conservative, but the blocks can only be bored over so much. Again just my $.02
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He posted he had it honed and it cleaned up at .0015
 
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