D4B and LD4B side by side pics

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I found my old thread regarding the bolt angles and tapered washers:
search in titles for "D-66 questions" and go to post #34 for figures and pics. The correct tapered washer is 8 degrees. and can be used oriented with the thick side up or down to correct for early manifold on newer heads or newer manifold on old heads.

The angle for newer heads/manifolds is 10 degrees and it is 18 degrees for the 64-5 stuff

When I measured the angle for intake bolts on 66 up LA 273-360 heads it looks to be about 8 degrees, but not sure of the exact angle.
 
I found my old thread regarding the bolt angles and tapered washers:
search in titles for "D-66 questions" and go to post #34 for figures and pics. The correct tapered washer is 8 degrees. and can be used oriented with the thick side up or down to correct for early manifold on newer heads or newer manifold on old heads.

The angle for newer heads/manifolds is 10 degrees and it is 18 degrees for the 64-5 stuff

When I measured the angle for intake bolts on 66 up LA 273-360 heads it looks to be about 8 degrees, but not sure of the exact angle.
Yes. In Post #22, The aluminum shim stock I had made was milled at 8 degrees.

This is from memory of 1974 times. No pictures.
 
Here is my D4B "Mini Gap" intake for my Florida 273 SB cruiser.
Didn't put a lot of care in removing the crossover as I thought it was only a temporary fix/experiment for the motor as I was installing a Edelbrock Pro Flo (1) EFI as soon as I figured out the manifold interface, which I never did.
Looking at the pic over a decade later, I should have installed a thermal insulation blocker between the hot oil shield and the manifold.

PB010004.JPG


PB010001.JPG
 
People who paint gasket surfaces......
with gask-a-cinch......? How about AL spray paint on copper head gaskets? I dont see any issues unless its a sliding gasket face like on a slant exhaust manifold or the bottom of a head that takes a certain RA so the MLS gasket bites OR slides.
 
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