Damn disease

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And installed.



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Slide a bicycle inner-tube over the chains, to prevent rattling.
 
I tried to pull this crease. Not worth the time. This old steel is like a half inch thick! So I cut it out and straightened it. More easier this way. Just requires patience for the install. It was also the easiest way to remove the mouse house.

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Is the rear end a bit forward in the fender?
 
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Not really. Just the angle of the pic. The box is just sitting there loose right now. No mounts made yet. It will probably come ahead about 3/8 - 5/8” yet. It depends on how many leafs I remove and how much it squats with weight. The front of the springs are positioned solid and the back is the pivot. The front is the opposite.
Oh and the fender is barely hanging on there!
 
:lol::thumbsup:

4:10 Dana 60 posi rear Dana 44 front.

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Nice axles, you can put a lunch-box locker in the front end, and buy a posi-lock kit, which utilizes a cable to activate the CAD front axle.
This allows you to run a full locked front end when needed, they you just push a cable mounted somewhere in the cab to de-activate one axle, cheap air style locker, and I would add a set of Warn hubs also.
And your rear end is most likely the 30 spline axles. This is identified by bolts holding the axles in, 35 splined axles used studs and nuts.

Clean them up, put fresh axle joints in the 44 (the weak link) and run them.
 
Good info. Thank you. I have a 360, an A518 and 241D transfer case already. I wasn't sure if I would just rig up air as the factory had or fully lock the front or as you say make it manual. I definitely want to get manual hubs.

The amazing part is that these are basically a bolt in. The spring mounts are almost identical between the years.
 
Dodge did not change the spring locations for a long time, in fact a chevy 10 bolt or 44 will also bolt right in a Dodge.

I screwed up a year or so ago, a guy had a 90 W350 that was rusty, but running 360 4-speed 205 case, dana 60 front and rear for $1000.
I went and looked at it, had the money in my pocket, but hauling it out of there on a trailer, there would have been rough, so many switch-backs going across the mountain, I would have seen the taillights on my trailer pulling it.
I regret not buying that one bad.
 
lol. Seen your taillights. That’s a good description!

I was very surprised to see how close they are. This swap will be very close to a bolt in. I’ll probably install them and modify the rear driveshaft for now so I can keep it moving. Then work on the power plant end of it.
 
lol. Seen your taillights. That’s a good description!

I was very surprised to see how close they are. This swap will be very close to a bolt in. I’ll probably install them and modify the rear driveshaft for now so I can keep it moving. Then work on the power plant end of it.
If the flat head runs good, it will surprise you what the old 100 hp engine will do.
 
“Flat fenders” had a little piece that the civilian trucks didn’t have to accommodate the fender joining the cab. Mine was missing the driver side.
Soooooo……

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A new set of doors in great shape with no vent windows, complete with functional glass. I definitely wanted to get rid of those other windows. This just saves me having to do repairs in the doors too. Haven’t quite deciphered the writing yet.

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The difference in the doors is, the ones with the vent windows are deluxe cab, the ones you are using is a standard cab.
Keep this in mind when you order door parts.
 
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