Dartin for Divorce

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A bodies make great drag cars. The barracudas I have are notchback coupes. Lightest and stiffest barracuda body for 2nd gen cars. People drag raced fastbacks because of the extra weight of the rear glass over the rear wheel area. However with some severe weight diet mods with a lot of aluminum, and fiberglass parts, along with ditching unneeded items like heater, extra seats, spare tire and jack you can get one of em down to close to 2,800 lbs without driver.
 
kursplat said:
picture of the throttle bracket side of the carb needed, thank you

edit: the shift kit would be inside the transmission valve body.
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Man you gentlemen are quick!

I think I may have a Lokar?

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moparmat2000 said:
Hunt for and read this article below on the net. It will offer a few nuggets of advice as to setting up the cable operated kick down. Honestly i wish Chrysler had done this type of set up way back then. Much simpler than the stock setup IMHO.

The Mustang I have I love for what it is. Modern performance car. Plenty of fun for me. GT V8 5 speed. Last road trip I got an average of 27.2 mph at 75 mph. Always dug the 1968 cult classic movie Bullitt. Was a big fan of the Charger and the Mustang. This one I feel kinda like I'm Steve McQueen when I slide behind the wheel lol. Owned a myriad of dodge chargers back in the day too. I have had em all Ford , GM, Chrysler. Never foreign. Wont touch any of that.

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That article was already posted by the smart man 69 GTS above! Definitely reading it.

I just like to poke fun, I actually looked at some mustangs and Chevelle's when searching for this dart because they are usually a little "cheaper."

I'm not much into drag racing or knowing what is light or not for a drag car, although I did really enjoy watching street outlaws.

As for foreign cars I like Audi's and Vw's, and I live wagons. Audi is bringing over the RS6 which is an amazing car and I would love to have one. The Cadillac CTS-V wagon is also super cool, like ultimate dad DD right there if I was going to DD a car. My car purchase after dental school will be the Rubicon Gladiator with the diesel though
 
Foreign stuff is great, but isn't cheap to fix. I would imagine the same could be said about American stuff people have overseas.
 
The little stub sticking out off your throttle cable mount was for a bellcrank for the original kickdown, and a linkage went from that to the bellcrank on the side of your transmission bell housing. From there it went back to the kickdown lever on the side of the trans. Yep a hokey mess that worked fine when stock. They did the right thing going with a cable one with your high rise intake
 
moparmat2000 said:
The little stub sticking out off your throttle cable mount was for a bellcrank for the original kickdown, and a linkage went from that to the bellcrank on the side of your transmission bell housing. From there it went back to the kickdown lever on the side of the trans. Yep a hokey mess that worked fine when stock. They did the right thing going with a cable one with your high rise intake
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It's nice to know that the previous owners did the right thing with performance parts and stuff even if they didn't like to do routine maintenance like change the oil and the coolant. I imagine the transmission also needs a good flush!
 
kursplat said:
cool, so it has a kick down. here's the instructions in case you need them
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Yea I found those while I was searching for the lokar kickdown, its's pretty nifty I'll have to read it after I finish the mopar linkage write up from hotrodders, then the /6 manual, and then maybe that :rofl:

I just put the little black plugs on the new spark plug wires, damn they suck. I'm looking at the diagrams now for how to correctly put them on properly. These are correct yes?

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I would spin the engine over and put it at TDC #1. Then remove the distributor cap and note where the rotor is pointing, note what terminal on the cap that is. Thats your #1. This is worth checking, #1 can be on any terminal.
 
Gearhed73 said:
I would spin the engine over and put it at TDC #1. Then remove the distributor cap and note where the rotor is pointing, note what terminal on the cap that is. Thats your #1. This is worth checking, #1 can be on any terminal.
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Luckily my #1 cylinder was already at TDC right? The rotor was pointing around #1 cylinder, idk if that is where most are or not, especially considering the the picture above has #8 in red. Oh well.

All my wires are cut and installed on the new distributor cap with new rotor. Note to anyone who reads this that didn't know, don't put the black pieces in until you're actually installing everything on the engine. You'll end up taking them all off and redoing it creating more work for yourself, ask me how I know? Better yet, just buy pre-done wires at correct lengths if they sell them like that (My fingers hurt now)
I'm trying to decide if I should do the same thing with my new middle plus as was on the old plug?

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Yeah, I made a wire set ONCE! Will not do it again, lol.

From the look of the wires your timing order looks correct. Fire it up!!
 
66fyssh said:
Yeah, I made a wire set ONCE! Will not do it again, lol.

From the look of the wires your timing order looks correct. Fire it up!!
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Haha I would fire it up if it had oil in it or coolant!

About the wires- it would be better to pay your son, your neighbors son, your neighbors neighbors son or the church choir boy to do them for you!

I'm fighting these damn motor mount bolts. I mixed 2 of the nuts up and they aren't wanting to thread very well. Backing one off now and will move the nuts to the original bolts and twist em on.

Yes I will fire her up without the exhaust on and it will be marvelous! Like sex on Sunday morning marvelous!
 
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My wife was talking crap earlier saying "I hope your battery for the car is dead when you try to start id laugh."

She didn't think it was funny when I told her if it was I'd take the battery out if her car and put it in the dart if mine was dead
 
All you need to do is put the new wires onto the exact same locations on the cap as where they were. Who cares which one is #1, etc... ?

Also, silicone spray makes those boots 100X easier to install.

Make sure those plug boots/wires are not touching the headers! They won't withstand direct heat. 90° boots (all, or some of them) are often required with headers.
 
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69_340_GTS said:
All you need to do is put the new wires onto the exact same locations on the cap as where they were. Who cares which one is #1, etc... ?
Also, silicone spray makes those boots 100X easier to install.
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Will try some wd40 on em

The wire was the middle one that doesn't go to a cylinder, I made the new one look exactly like the old one and plugged it in .
 
I know this is probably the stupidest question- add oil through the valve cover breather correct?

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Well, I tried to put coolant in the car and it the car decided it didn't like it.... 1 jug all over the garage floor. Came out the bottom left bolt of the WP, I used the 1in bolt like the diagram said, tried to tighten it and nope wouldn't thread any farther... Hmm maybe that's where that weird longer bolt went. I'll find out in a bit, I'm trying to clean up the garage enough to move the car out into the driveway .

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Also, how important is this? It totally doesn't fit between the transmission and headers to the engine. If super important I'll mess with it tomorrow .

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Gently try the longer bolt, don't crank it in. You may have to get a 2" bolt? As for the bracket ... your lucky you still have one. Mine has been gone a long time. Always better to try an get it to go on if you can.
 
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