Dartin for Divorce

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@plumkrazee70 ah, I see. I hope it performs pretty well; it will probably give me a kick in the *** to redoing to trans and getting different gears. I wonder if I have to retime the engine or retune anything? When I mess with that stuff things go wrong :rofl:
 
Car has much more power down low. I was able to Really spin the tires with ease... I need to get the car tuned, but I don't know anyone here. It still runs really well. Now, I need to get a new torque converter and gears... Oh, and different rear springs...



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DentalDart said:
Car has much more power down low. I was able to Really spin the tires with ease... I need to get the car tuned, but I don't know anyone here. It still runs really well. Now, I need to get a new torque converter and gears... Oh, and different rear springs...



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A little more compression with the closed chamber and better flowing head will do that.
a little more grunt.
 
Search online for a shop that has a chassis dyno that'll "on-dyno" tune it for you. Not sure how much the session might cost but it'll be worth it. Typically they'll set timing to make most power and adjust carb then, if necessary jet carb. You'll be very pleased. They should be able to give you an idea of rough cost over the phone. Keep us posted
 
Went for a drive in the neighborhood... punched the throttle a couple times to fish tail the car a bit which lit up both of my co-drivers faces lol. Now time to finish cleaning the garage. Oh yeah, I also hung up a retractable sun shade on the back porch for the wife.

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I got a new linkage bracked for the throttle cable and the KD cable. I noticed the little lokar bracket flexed under load. Maybe that was contributing to my shifts that have never felt right. This bracket doesn't flex, looks better, and hopefully will help smooth out my shifts. Tomorrow, I will ensure that my kd cable is adjusted properly. I'm sure it's pretty close right now.

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I'm also looking at getting a new pcv valve and a new breather for my valve covers. The current ones just don't look right... I like these, and I will switch for the pcv valve and breather, so hopefully, it will look a little cleaner. Oh, and I broke my fan shroud... The one I cut up to make fit... So, I will have to eventually figure out a fan shroud as well.

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Shifts are still the same... so it's gotta be the vb... well another day Ill solve that problem. New exhaust header gaskets to get rid of the leaking headers; gave a good lining of copper rtv on the new gaskets as well. I also lined the header to exhaust gaskets with copper rtv as well to stop any leaks there... Now we pray for no more leaks tomorrow... Oh, I also have to figure out a way to get my ateering coupler shoes all the way pressed in the steering coupler body...







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How do you have the kickdown linkage adjusted?
 
DentalDart said:
I got a new linkage bracked for the throttle cable and the KD cable. I noticed the little lokar bracket flexed under load. Maybe that was contributing to my shifts that have never felt right. This bracket doesn't flex, looks better, and hopefully will help smooth out my shifts. Tomorrow, I will ensure that my kd cable is adjusted properly. I'm sure it's pretty close right now.

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Where did you buy the bracket?
 
@RustyRatRod kd is adjuated for cable to be tight when the gas pedal is pressed to the floor. It should be a 1-to-1 pull length on the kd cable to the throttle cable. I have also done it from the bottom of the car on the transmission and get the same exact results.
 
DentalDart said:
@RustyRatRod kd is adjuated for cable to be tight when the gas pedal is pressed to the floor. It should be a 1-to-1 pull length on the kd cable to the throttle cable. I have also done it from the bottom of the car on the transmission and get the same exact results.
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Ok, so to be a little more clear than MUD are you saying the transmission lever is ALL the way BACK when the throttle is all the way open? And are you 100% SURE? Have you removed the cable with the throttle all the way open to see if you can push the lever back any farther?
 
@RustyRatRod yes, I am sure it is all the way back. I've done it a million times. I have my wife come out and press the gas pedal while I check the cable lengths on the carburetor. After checking them at the carb, I crawl under the car and ensure it is adjusted properly at the transmission.
 
DentalDart said:
@RustyRatRod yes, I am sure it is all the way back. I've done it a million times. I have my wife come out and press the gas pedal while I check the cable lengths on the carburetor. After checking them at the carb, I crawl under the car and ensure it is adjusted properly at the transmission.
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A million. That's a bunch. The only thing I know at this point is to remove the pan and look at the allen head adjustment bolt. Make sure it's adjusted per the FSM.
 
DentalDart said:
Shifts are still the same... so it's gotta be the vb... well another day Ill solve that problem. New exhaust header gaskets to get rid of the leaking headers; gave a good lining of copper rtv on the new gaskets as well. I also lined the header to exhaust gaskets with copper rtv as well to stop any leaks there... Now we pray for no more leaks tomorrow... Oh, I also have to figure out a way to get my ateering coupler shoes all the way pressed in the steering coupler body...







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Dat some sketchy chit on the steering coupler. Seems the column is collapsed.
 
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