That old Kawasaki looks to be in great condition. Should be fun to ride around the property.
Dartin for Divorce
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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I just tell my wife worse that happens is I **** it up and we will pay someone later to fix it. Been finishing baseboards the past couple weeks. Took longer as we have had family in town every weekend.
Disclaimer: the last motorcycle bud I had in Springfield lost his right foot in a motorycle wreck!
But he was also a Chevy guy!
Thatis a home befitting a dentist! Cool!
B-i-n-g-o
Well-Known Member
Like you said, I've noticed what used to be $100 is $1000, and what used to be a $1000 is $10000! I do all I can myself...I consider it untaxable income, and a significant raise. And you have the tools when you're finished! Looks good!
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I agree. I do everything myself if I can. Had a plumbing leak under the slab. Had to all in the big guns for that. Cost me a pretty penny too.
Good to see you back! New home and property ownership will sure eat up time, money and effort to get whipped into shape but you will be happy with the results.
I'm nobody's idea of a DIY home improvement expert but often I can manage well enough. I figure my labor is money in the bank.
Now we need more car pics and updates!
I'm nobody's idea of a DIY home improvement expert but often I can manage well enough. I figure my labor is money in the bank.
Now we need more car pics and updates!
Nice looking bike, if it will turn over, it should run.
Nice job on the re-model projects, at least you can get somebody to give you a quote.
Shooting is always fun, I have to drive 35 minutes up to my farm to let some fly, I would move up there permantly, but it would be an hr drive to work.
Nice job on the re-model projects, at least you can get somebody to give you a quote.
Shooting is always fun, I have to drive 35 minutes up to my farm to let some fly, I would move up there permantly, but it would be an hr drive to work.
I don’t have any car updates. They are both buried in the shop lol.
I need to get a shop cleaned out and make it a dedicated work area. Hopefully I can do that before it gets to cold outside.
I had to repair some floor joints. Did it myself, took a day but saved a bunch of money. 6ft 2x12’s sandwiched on the old floor joints.
Lucky's Discount Lumber near Seymore is your friend/
Dartsun
Mopar Dude
House looking amazing, keep up all the hard work.
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
I have had to do that before. We would use a high lift jack to push the old beams up to level and close the crack, then do as you did and splint it from both sides. That repair will last a lifetime
Lowe’s has been pretty good to me… doesn’t hurt that it’s the closest.
Oh there was no way to get a Jack to lift the old beams, at least no Jack I could have gotten would have been tall enough. From my basement floor to that joint it’s like 12-13ft.
The floor feels pretty solid now. I probably should have checked the rest of the house. We luckily have a drop ceiling in the basement
moparmat2000
Well-Known Member
Yeah that's a bit tall. What we used were 7 foot tall temporary steel beams with a jack screw inside to extend them another 2 foot.
A piece of used 2 inch steel pipe and that jack. hint: they sell used pipe there in Springfiel but the name ofthe place escapes me. Cheap/
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Floor jack and a 6x6 post works wonders. I usually block up the the jack so it can't roll away or get bumpd out. A few 2x4's crossing under the jack usually does it.
That looks like bug damage, scary. Any wood dust on top of the drop ceiling tiles? If so, I'd be hunting for an exterminator.
If the damage is spread along the whole length of the joist, I'd be working toward adding new joists between the existing rather than sistering rotten wood. Sistering can work, but all the load goes through the fasteners so you need an absolute crap ton of nails/fasteners. Even then, nails have little to no axial strength and screws have little shear strength. You can through-bolt with 3/8 or 1/2" fasteners to get some clamp, but then you're only bearing on the hole the fastener goes through and wood has a horrible way of tearing out. Flitch plates (steel plates) can be added to help add strength but that's not cheap..
Rather than try to engineer a way to fix failed wood boards/beams, replacement is more reliable. Since you have access, I'd definitely go that route.
A couple floor jacks, or go buy a couple lally columns to build a temp beam support to act as a temp wall across the middle of the joist spans. Rip some ply to act as a spacer under the joists to the beam to leave you some working room to place the new joists or order up some engineered i-beams that aren't as tall and then pad them on the bearing ends to get them tight to the floor. Glue them up to the underside of the floor sheathing rather than trying to shoot screws or nails and leave the old joists in-place unless they're harboring pests.
I'm no pro, but I've been down that road a couple times.
The beam that was broken was right in the kitchen, right in front of the dishwasher/oven area. I didn’t see any wood dust on the top of the drop tiles.
It was missed by the home inspector and I found it after ripping up the tile in the kitchen.
Only the 1 beam was broken, the one next to it wasn’t nearly as bad. I just decided to brace all of the beams due to knowing the other beams were under more stress.
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Doc, take an awl or Phillips screwdriver and try to poke into beams, especially around edges/ends. If it easily penetrates you've got rotted or infested wood. Tel-tale hint of termites are sand-like tunnels, usually around outside edge of foundation and/or along masonry (basement/crawl space) floor and walls. If you see any evidence, don't fool around, get a certified pest control outfit to inspect. If they find infestation have the whole house treated = don't just treat the area(s) identified = you'll just be chasing them around. I'm not an expert by any means but have had termites in a previous home and at two places of prior employment. Good luck with your family's new home.
I will bet on soft white Canadian wood milled with already present bug damage. 99% of yellow pine is brogut in to Mo. from out of state and most Canadian wood used there.
Now you guys got me all worried lol.
That ain't termites!
I agree, subterranean termite damage is usually not visible externally, as the worker termite is light sensitive. They make mud tubes from the soil to make there way to the wood. damage is found inside the wood.That ain't termites!
If the inspector missed anything he would have missed a tube from the ground as the termite parent colony will be in the ground.
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