Dartin for Divorce

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Happy place! :steering:

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The "owner" of the purple car and I did some cleaning today. These poverty caps clean up nice, just a little soap and water then soaked them in vinegar/fabulosa and water for about an hour. I also got some chrome polish to use on them later. Then we cleaned the Mopar steelies, I'm guessing the original car was a real colored car by the wheels.

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Submerged my manifolds in 7 gallons of vinegar with 3 gallons of water. Going to get them all cleaned up.

Picked up some hose to connect install the coolant overflow tank today, that should be a quick and painless install.

Looking at rear axles for the 8 3/4, and most likely going to do a disc brake swap on it. Reason for this is it's the same price as drums so I might as well do the discs.

I'm still undecided on what to do up front. On one hand I have the 73+ brake assembly with all the parts to do the swap less the brake pads, and possibly new rotors? On the other hand, all that stuff is old and by the time I replace some parts, bushings, buy brake lines, and other little things I'm almost at the price of a new front disc brake kit.

Ooh also found these- wheel seals is what I find when I search the part #

So decisions decisions.

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Sounds like your leaning towards buying new assembly. Cool ! If so , you can sell the 73+ setup and re-coup some cash, lots of guys want them . How's mom and Rose doing ??
 
Submerged my manifolds in 7 gallons of vinegar with 3 gallons of water. Going to get them all cleaned up.

Picked up some hose to connect install the coolant overflow tank today, that should be a quick and painless install.

Looking at rear axles for the 8 3/4, and most likely going to do a disc brake swap on it. Reason for this is it's the same price as drums so I might as well do the discs.

I'm still undecided on what to do up front. On one hand I have the 73+ brake assembly with all the parts to do the swap less the brake pads, and possibly new rotors? On the other hand, all that stuff is old and by the time I replace some parts, bushings, buy brake lines, and other little things I'm almost at the price of a new front disc brake kit.

Ooh also found these- wheel seals is what I find when I search the part #

So decisions decisions.

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If you have the 73+ spindles and calipers, you could buy the 11.75” caliper brackets and rotors. Factory parts but an upgrade over standard 73+ brakes.
 
If you have the 73+ spindles and calipers, you could buy the 11.75” caliper brackets and rotors. Factory parts but an upgrade over standard 73+ brakes.

Talked with Case at Dr Diff and this is what I'm going to do, along with rear axles, proportioning valve and rear drums.
 
Sounds like your leaning towards buying new assembly. Cool ! If so , you can sell the 73+ setup and re-coup some cash, lots of guys want them . How's mom and Rose doing ??

They are doing awesome, the wife is amazing and she has this being a mom stuff down to the "T," baby Rose is also my little love bug who has stolen my heart. Thanks for asking!

After talking with Cass he says to just go with Drums, that it would be easier to re-use my stock ebrake lines, and that I won't notice a difference in braking. He said most do it for looks, but I'm running steelies so you won't see them anyways haha .
 
You'll find out... if the system doesn't work like it's supposed to.

Touche! I don't think anything on my car works how it is supposed to work haha. I've actually had a slight bog off the line with my car lately, but only happens right after I start driving it until it fully warms up.

I'll order a new cap with the new radiator :) hopefully ccase gets radiators back in stock soon!

Do you still have ssbc fronts, from previous posts you really liked them? I thought I read somewhere that they went bankrupt and I haven't seen anyone selling the fronts anymore?

Is there a way to test if my calipers work or need rebuilt? Or can I not do that until I have it all installed?
 
Touche! I don't think anything on my car works how it is supposed to work haha. I've actually had a slight bog off the line with my car lately, but only happens right after I start driving it until it fully warms up.

I'll order a new cap with the new radiator :) hopefully ccase gets radiators back in stock soon!

Do you still have ssbc fronts, from previous posts you really liked them? I thought I read somewhere that they went bankrupt and I haven't seen anyone selling the fronts anymore?

Is there a way to test if my calipers work or need rebuilt? Or can I not do that until I have it all installed?
SSBC discs all-around. No problems at all. I do think they went belly-up. The company had been around forever. Summit does not list them anymore. Anyways, as far as I now their pads and calipers are OEM parts. So those parts will be available forever. The discs may be OEM also. I'm sure someone will come along to fill their spot.
 
SSBC discs all-around. No problems at all. I do think they went belly-up. The company had been around forever. Summit does not list them anymore. Anyways, as far as I now their pads and calipers are OEM parts. So those parts will be available forever. The discs may be OEM also. I'm sure someone will come along to fill their spot.

I see! I didn't know their pads and calipers were OEM parts, that's really nice. It's one of the drawbacks to the wilwoods imo.
 
I know the front ones are '90s Mustang parts, I think the rears are late model GM of some sort. If I could find the instruction sheets, they actually show the part numbers and (possibly) the sources.
 
So I read the disc o tech article on the 11.75 brakes.

I currently have everything I need except for the rotors, pads, and caliper brackets up front.

I searched rock auto. I can get drilled and slotted best brake rotors 11.7 for 91, pads on closeout for 3 bucks up to 26 dollars, then I have to figure out if my calipers brackets are the right size, I can also get caliper hold down kits for about 8 bucks. I have slider brackets and need to see if they measure 3 1/4 or 3 5/8 the latter being the size that I need. If I end up needing new calipers those are about 25 bucks. All in all without a new master, prop valve and lines I should be around 130 shipped. I could get a master for 60ish from rock auto as well.

If I rebuild the front end which bushings, wheel seals, and stuff should I get? Where do you guys recommend brake lines from?

I'll do some searching in a bit after my pt this morning.

Here's a picture of my caliper bracket

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I bought a complete front end rebuild kit from PST when I rebuild my front end. I believe I got all my brake stuff, including hoses, from rock auto.

As far as your caliper brackets go, the ones you currently have are for the smaller rotors.
These are the brackets you need, these are front Dr. Diff so you could either buy them on eBay or straight from Cass if you’re buying other stuff from him.

Mopar Caliper Brackets fit 11.75" rotors on '73 up DISC knuckles A/B/E body NEW | eBay
 
I bought a complete front end rebuild kit from PST when I rebuild my front end. I believe I got all my brake stuff, including hoses, from rock auto.

As far as your caliper brackets go, the ones you currently have are for the smaller rotors.
These are the brackets you need, these are front Dr. Diff so you could either buy them on eBay or straight from Cass if you’re buying other stuff from him.

Mopar Caliper Brackets fit 11.75" rotors on '73 up DISC knuckles A/B/E body NEW | eBay


Awesome, that's good to know! I need to buy front end rebuild parts for a 73+ year Mopar correct?
 
Talked to the owner and going to the local Mopar junkyard/goldmine (your choice in what you want to call it) in the next week. Getting a proportioning valve, drum brakes and backing plate for the bbp swap, unless he wants an arm and a leg for it. He doesn't have any 11.75 caliper brackets though.

And possibly an arm rest for my door card, mine is ripped.

Anything else that I should look for?

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Well I may have lucked out at the junkyard today! Found a very nice donor 1988 Gran fury!

New wheels? I think so! Drum brakes and backing plates? I think so!

I read it should have an 8 1/4 rear end and some had sure grips in them. I'm going to go and test it out tomorrow to see if it does. I am going to take the proportioning valve too.

I also read that the 8 1/4 is a direct bolt in for the 7 1/4, and some had 727 transmissions which I could take the drive shaft out of. It might be cheaper to take the whole rear axle and use it than it would be to buy shafts for the 8 3/4.
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