Dartin for Divorce

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Having fun! Just need to get the front end parts ordered now.

Also shocks ordered , kybs from Amazon. They only had 1 front one left so I have to go to orielys tomorrow and make them match the price lol.

Apparently my axle seal didn't like me blowing air through it because this little oring gasket came flying out.

Also did I put these shock plates on oriented the correct way?

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Shocks ended up being back ordered on Amazon even though they had them listed in stock, bleh .

Ended up placing an order on RA for shocks, brake pads, brake pad hardware kit, gas cap, brake shoes and the UCA bushing socket.

Ordered from PST the super front rebuild kit with polygraphite bushings, c body tie rod ends, upgraded tie rod sleeves and a front gmax sway bar.

Literally everything will be new except the springs and steering parts... Figured I'd order it all at once to only get in trouble for ordering more parts one time... For now...

For brake lines I'm a little confused if I need to replace them or not. I mean my brakes work well right now. Rock Auto has what seems like all the brake lines for a 88 diplomat on clearance/closeout right now. Or does the Dr Diff brake line kit have everything I would need to replace?
 
DentalDart said:
For brake lines I'm a little confused if I need to replace them or not. I mean my brakes work well right now. Rock Auto has what seems like all the brake lines for a 88 diplomat on clearance/closeout right now. Or does the Dr Diff brake line kit have everything I would need to replace?
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are you talking about hoses or hard lines? if the car was from back east, salty and rusted, you'd probably need to do the hard lines at some point, but south west car probably never. the hoses i change as a routine wear item unless i know they were done in the last 10 years
 
kursplat said:
are you talking about hoses or hard lines? if the car was from back east, salty and rusted, you'd probably need to do the hard lines at some point, but south west car probably never. the hoses i change as a routine wear item unless i know they were done in the last 10 years
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The hoses. Like left front, right front hoses etc etc
 
Change the hoses, they are different than the drum brake ones.
 
sireland67 said:
Change the hoses, they are different than the drum brake ones.
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Thanks! I actually ordered them already! I found a thread where it stated they were different.

Now I'm just debating if I should just get a new MC as well the RAYBESTOS MC36406, which is hard to find and kind of pricey, or the adapter plate for my mc that I took off the 88 Gran fury.

Parts started showing up yesterday and the wire didn't notice. That's probably because we were in the hospital all day with our new baby as she has the Flu .
 
Congratulations on the new arrival.
Just buy a parts store master cylinder for a 73 Duster with disk brakes.

Cheapest option.
 
Mc ordered lines are on their way and have this pile of junk to get through before connecting the lines and mc. I'm also waiting in the suspension rebuild kit from PST. I guess you could say it will be a fun weekend! I was going to buy the UCA bushing tool, but I think I would have to rent or buy a bushing replacemt tool kit anyways so I passed on it for now hoping the rental tools from the auto store will work before buying it.

I got a new gas cap because it was on clearance and I thought it looked good. I don't know how I feel about it when installed. It doesn't sit inside the gas cap mounting area like the old chrome one does and I thought the the face would look a little better. Meh.

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Their are changes to the gas caps, depending on the year.
 
DentalDart said:
I got a new gas cap because it was on clearance and I thought it looked good. I don't know how I feel about it when installed. It doesn't sit inside the gas cap mounting area like the old chrome one does and I thought the the face would look a little better. Meh.
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fliptop...
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kursplat said:
fliptop...
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That looks good. I'll keep an eye out.

So I was thinking this morning. With it being 100 difference between a new drive shaft and shortening mine it's better to have them make me the new one.

But... I'll have to get another one made when I swap in the 727? Bleh... Should just put that in too!?

Is this the whole snowball effect? :rofl:
 
If you would have dropped them in the freezer overnight to shrink the studs, they would have went in a lot easier.
 
DentalDart said:
That looks good. I'll keep an eye out.

So I was thinking this morning. With it being 100 difference between a new drive shaft and shortening mine it's better to have them make me the new one.

But... I'll have to get another one made when I swap in the 727? Bleh... Should just put that in too!?

Is this the whole snowball effect? :rofl:
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It’s only $50 to shorten one, at my local Point Spring and Driveshaft in Fairmont WV.
But it did cost me $350 for a new one built out of 3.5” tube.
 
sireland67 said:
If you would have dropped them in the freezer overnight to shrink the studs, they would have went in a lot easier.
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Yea I thought of that after I started haha. I sprayed some WD 40 on them and well that didn't help to much .

sireland67 said:
It’s only $50 to shorten one, at my local Point Spring and Driveshaft in Fairmont WV.
But it did cost me $350 for a new one built out of 3.5” tube.
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Dang, that's cheap. It's around 190 for shortening with all the proper connectors to the 3rd and the transmission and 300 for a new one at one of the local driveline shops. For just 100 more it's smarter to get a new one.
 
DentalDart said:
Yea I thought of that after I started haha. I sprayed some WD 40 on them and well that didn't help to much .



Dang, that's cheap. It's around 190 for shortening with all the proper connectors to the 3rd and the transmission and 300 for a new one at one of the local driveline shops. For just 100 more it's smarter to get a new one.
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I would shop around and just get it shortened.
 
R4Sedan said:
Yep, And it gets only worst trust me.
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Luckily my daughter loves this car and hopefully all of the money won't go to waste; one day God willing she will want the car for herself and I'll know I did something right in my life.
 
650 ft/lbs? First, how do you know this? And why hasn't the stud just twisted off by now? At this point, you'll be better off getting those studs pressed in. But 100 ft/lbs should seat them. Maybe you have the wrong studs?
 
69_340_GTS said:
650 ft/lbs? First, how do you know this? And why hasn't the stud just twisted off by now? At this point, you'll be better off getting those studs pressed in. But 100 ft/lbs should seat them. Maybe you have the wrong studs?
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Well buying the impact air gun it said it was 650ft lbs of torque. I was able to seat them, had to get another nut between the face if the axle shaft and the lip of the nut so they didn't contact each other and keep the nut from seating.

Also the 24v impact gun I have is 150 ft lbs and it definitely didn't seat them.

One side is in. I'll work in the next side shortly, trying to figure out these axle seals

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DentalDart said:
Well buying the impact air gun it said it was 650ft lbs of torque. I was able to seat them, had to get another nut between the face if the axle shaft and the lip of the nut so they didn't contact each other and keep the nut from seating.

Also the 24v impact gun I have is 150 ft lbs and it definitely didn't seat them.

One side is in. I'll work in the next side shortly, trying to figure out these axle seals

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well, I agree with him, no way in hell that stud survives 650 ft lbs. Specs on 1/2-20 those for breaking/shearing torque is 300 ft lbs. So while your guns may be rated for that max torque, I highly doubt you got them at peak torque. I just replaced my Jeep's 1/2-20s, which are the same diameter and thread pitch last week. Pulled them in with a torque wrench set at 150 lbs pounds, and I stretched the first two of them putting them in, luckily I had spares. I backed it down to 115 ft lbs, which was less than the factory recommends the wheels be torqued to when installed(125 ft lbs) and they went right in, undamaged.
 
All the studs survived, the lug nuts used to install them not so much.

Today I'll work on getting the old inner axle seals out and putting the new ones in. With green bearings I see that you don't have to reinstall then but it is better safe than sorry the article said.
 
I also need to find the bushing/gasket and maybe rubber boot for installing my old pushrod into the new MC. Ive seen that The Ram Man has the boot and the bushing, it's quite expensive there though. Mancinni also has the bushing cheap but couldn't find the boot. Napa didn't seem to have it, they do have a MC rebuild kit though. Maybe I'll get lucky and when I pull the old one the boot will be in good shape.

I'll also try and bench bleed the new MC and set up the rear brakes on the rear end.
 
The boot is not mandatory.

I was able to find an o-ring that fit to replace the pushrod "bushing". It works pretty well. When I get home I'll see if I have any extras.
 
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