68 formula-s
New Member
I need to remove and replace my dash pad on a 68 barracuda. I need instructions on how to proceed. Never tried this before. Thankyou
dash pad
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Lots of band aids and Tylenol for your neck and back. Every thing inside/behind the dash is SHARP and POINTY. Go slow and really take your time. I did my 1974 swinger and had the new re-pop dash pad already in the garage so I could use it as a reference to how many screws there was and where they were located. I had to drop the steering column down, remove the dash cluster and remove the glove box door and the glove box liner. I pushed my bench seat all the way back and had the Pad out within an 30 min. Removing all the crap mentioned above take longer then the job itself.
Mopardrt is correct. Ive done a few and are a pain in the arse! Do yourself a favor and remove front seats and console if you have one. Been a while but Im pretty sure there is one small stud/bolt on each end(1/4" or 5/16" socket). The rest are nuts, again 1/4 or 5/16. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet, extension and wobble extension, it will help.
Different methods for different folks for sure. Taking the seat out is not part of my my method.
Studs welded on the back of the dash cap have nuts on them. Each turned down end has a hex hd sheet metal screw, so yes the inst' panel glove box, etc.. will need to come out. I can sit in the seat to do most of this.
The only parts underneath that you will need to access are steering column bolts. Those and the speedometer cable can be reached while kneeling at the driver door opening.
Please take note of these common mistakes and ways to avoid them....
The service manuals and others will state tip the inst' panel over to access its harness connectors. They don't say how far forward to move before tipping.
The left circuit board on a rally panel has a very weak contact pin too close to the top edge.Very easily bent or broken. While kneeling at the drivers door , if you'll reach under the car and feel around a bit you'll find the speedometer cable held by a sheet metal strap. Set the cable out of that strap. Later on when the inst' panel ready to move forward, find the speedometer cable coming through the firewall and pull a little inside while pushing toward the panel. That should push the panel out plenty far enough to disconnect that cable and electrical connections. ( for what its worth, I'll separate the bulkhead connections under the hood and push that connector inside the cabin. That gives me ample slack in the wiring. Yes I'm slower and more methodical that most.)
Those who work under the dash while laying in the floor tend to use the steering wheel for a pull up. They aren't aware of the pizzy little bearing centering the steering shaft in the column. Pulling the column left and right and lengthwise while it is unbolted can damage all sorts of small parts or at minimum change their alignment inside that column. Take the bolts out, gently lower the column straight down to the seat only as long as necessary then go straight back up with it and loosely hang it with a couple of nuts.
Studs welded on the back of the dash cap have nuts on them. Each turned down end has a hex hd sheet metal screw, so yes the inst' panel glove box, etc.. will need to come out. I can sit in the seat to do most of this.
The only parts underneath that you will need to access are steering column bolts. Those and the speedometer cable can be reached while kneeling at the driver door opening.
Please take note of these common mistakes and ways to avoid them....
The service manuals and others will state tip the inst' panel over to access its harness connectors. They don't say how far forward to move before tipping.
The left circuit board on a rally panel has a very weak contact pin too close to the top edge.Very easily bent or broken. While kneeling at the drivers door , if you'll reach under the car and feel around a bit you'll find the speedometer cable held by a sheet metal strap. Set the cable out of that strap. Later on when the inst' panel ready to move forward, find the speedometer cable coming through the firewall and pull a little inside while pushing toward the panel. That should push the panel out plenty far enough to disconnect that cable and electrical connections. ( for what its worth, I'll separate the bulkhead connections under the hood and push that connector inside the cabin. That gives me ample slack in the wiring. Yes I'm slower and more methodical that most.)
Those who work under the dash while laying in the floor tend to use the steering wheel for a pull up. They aren't aware of the pizzy little bearing centering the steering shaft in the column. Pulling the column left and right and lengthwise while it is unbolted can damage all sorts of small parts or at minimum change their alignment inside that column. Take the bolts out, gently lower the column straight down to the seat only as long as necessary then go straight back up with it and loosely hang it with a couple of nuts.
68 formula-s
New Member
Redfish, you seem to be a man of knowledge. While I am replacing the dash pad I am also replacing the dash wiring harness,dash bezel,bezel lenses, heater core. should I replace the circuit board at the same time. What else would you recommend I do
I suppose you are referring to the inst' panel circuit board. There are 2 of them on the rally panel. Regardless, In most cases they are repairable.
I've seen and installed the reproductions. They do look pretty. It will be about 40 years before anyone can say those are better than OEM boards.
The bezel has both clear and colored lenses. Each requires a technique in their R&R.
We'll reserve all that for another day, another thread.
What else I would do... I would replace the seals at both heater case to cowl and fresh air vent to cowl. I would reseal both wiper pivots and replace the plastic bushings in wiper linkage. Grease speedometer cable. Beyond those common problems, just take a good long look for pther issues.
I consider the rally inst' panel to be the most fragile of them. Anyone who has done it can tell you its the most difficult to R&R. That's why it pays to do everything we can to insure it doesn't need to come out again for a very long time.
I've seen and installed the reproductions. They do look pretty. It will be about 40 years before anyone can say those are better than OEM boards.
The bezel has both clear and colored lenses. Each requires a technique in their R&R.
We'll reserve all that for another day, another thread.
What else I would do... I would replace the seals at both heater case to cowl and fresh air vent to cowl. I would reseal both wiper pivots and replace the plastic bushings in wiper linkage. Grease speedometer cable. Beyond those common problems, just take a good long look for pther issues.
I consider the rally inst' panel to be the most fragile of them. Anyone who has done it can tell you its the most difficult to R&R. That's why it pays to do everything we can to insure it doesn't need to come out again for a very long time.
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