Dating previous owner's disc conversion

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Trevor B

Trevor B

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I just bought a '68 Barracuda Fastback that is just full of potential!
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A previous owner did some modifications including power brakes and a disc swap to LBP wheels at some point (front only, though). They need going through and will probably need various parts. And the front end is going to get bushings all around.

Is there a way to date the equipment so I know what to buy?
 
Most common parts used would be from a 73-76 Dart or Duster V8 car. Replacement parts would be for the later model vehicles and include everythng from the upper control arm bushings through to the lower ball joints. But best to provide pics for verification as there are many aftermarket swap options and a few less common Mopar swaps.
 
Let me put my crystal ball hat on........nope that didn't work. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Let me put my crystal ball hat on........nope that didn't work. lol
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You probably had the crystal ball hat on backwards...I know because I put mine on backwards all the time???LOL...Pics are about the only way anyone can help.

treblig
 
(believe it or not, my original thought was to try and use collective knowledge to learn how to figure it out on my own as opposed to just asking what I have...)

I'll post up some this afternoon, to be sure.
 
Trevor B said:
(believe it or not, my original thought was to try and use collective knowledge to learn how to figure it out on my own as opposed to just asking what I have...)

I'll post up some this afternoon, to be sure.
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By the way...pretty nice looking car!! I put 73 Charger front spindles on my '69 Barracuda with the LBJ UCA. It would be hard to tell by just looking at them unless you have a good mental picture of all the different types of spindles and calipers. I later swapped out my stock LBJ UCAs for adjustable UCAs.

treblig
 
Thanks! Some yahoo put a cheapo clear coat over the original paint, which is peeling, but that should come off with a little elbow grease.

Yes... on the advice of someone (two someones, actually, including one RustyRatRod and one crusty old local mechanic who likes to curse me out but who does excellent work) who knows more than me: "buy for the body." This one is super straight, zero rust, and has all working electronics + redone interior.
 
Here they are.
Aftermarket booster/master cylinder.
Lots of things not right... pulling to the left while driving pretty good.
Brakes were lightly applied (hard to turn front wheels) - cracked the bleeder and they freed up.
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Master cylinder looks like a later Mopar aluminum unit, could be from a later "cloud" car, maybe a Dakota or could even be from Dr. Diff. Power booster looks like one of those generic 8" units, not sure what the mess is underneath that looks like it converts a single pot brake system to the dual master, but I don't like it. Caliper brackets are 73+ OE stuff, same for calipers, rotors and spindles. Not sure exactly what they're from because you can't see enough of everything, they could be 73+ A or FMJ pieces. UCA's and ball joints appear to be the later 73+ stuff, but it's pretty hard to tell as not much is showing. If you separate the UCA from the spindle and there's a sleeve on the ball joint taper then they're early SBJ stuff using ball joint sleeves.
 
Thanks!
Yeah, the UCA's look just like my 73 Duster's.
I actually have a master cylinder + booster from a 73 Duster that I thought I might need. Would that fit/be a better way to go?
 
Just looking... You have late model disc brakes combined with early model sway bar. Do the calipers not collide with that sway bar ? Most cases we have to switch these spindles left and right so the caliper moves to the rear ( 11 oclock position ) and opt for a longer F-body fluid hose. All to get a full, no conflict steering radius.
A few owners have chose to instead use a very short end link on the sway bar, assembled beneath the attach tab. I don't know how well that works though.
Bottom line, If the previous owner didn't do this swap correctly, You could correct it.
 
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Just be sure that you keep the brake bleeder on the top side so you can bleed the air out of the system.

Treblig
 
RedFish said:
Just looking... You have late model disc brakes combined with early model sway bar. Do the calipers not collide with that sway bar ? Most cases we have to switch these spindles left and right so the caliper moves to the rear ( 11 o'clock position ) and opt for a longer F-body fluid hose. All to get a full, no conflict steering radius.
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Good question. I'll check on that when I get into it this weekend. Switching the spindles would be a good opportunity to change out all the bushings and any bad ball joints. Is there any braking disadvantage to having them on the back side of the wheel as opposed to the front?

The bleeder valve would stay on top, I think.
 
Trevor B said:
Good question. I'll check on that when I get into it this weekend. Switching the spindles would be a good opportunity to change out all the bushings and any bad ball joints. Is there any braking disadvantage to having them on the back side of the wheel as opposed to the front?

The bleeder valve would stay on top, I think.
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No braking disadvantage to moving the calipers to the backside, just make sure you use longer brake hoses. The bleeder valve does stay on top if you switch the calipers side for side with the spindles. If you don't swap the calipers side to side as well it does not.

Trevor B said:
Does anyone know about the compatibility of the 1973 power brake MC?
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As in, you want use a 73+ cast iron MC? It would work fine. But the one you have already is better. If the caps leak just change the seals out. The real mess you have is that thing underneath the MC, I don't like that at all.
 
Be sure to use lock tight on the bolts that hold the caliper brackets to the spindle...they will come loose!!

treblig
 
Trevor B said:
Good question. I'll check on that when I get into it this weekend. Switching the spindles would be a good opportunity to change out all the bushings and any bad ball joints. Is there any braking disadvantage to having them on the back side of the wheel as opposed to the front?

The bleeder valve would stay on top, I think.
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No difference in stopping. Upper and lower arms, ball joints, etc.. stay where they are now.
 
Here are some more pics of the front end - hope they shed some light!
1) front
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2) from behind
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I believe RedFish is correct. The spindles should be swapped so the calipers can be put on the back side.
 
Yup, the calipers hit the sway bar. Definitely going to do the switch.
Is there anything rubber besides dust boots and brake hoses I'm going to need to swap the spindles?

Can I just disconnect the brake hose from the caliper and pull the entire array, hub and all, and switch from one side to the other so as not to have to change hose length. Anything I should watch out for? Or... Should the brake hoses be replaced as a matter of course?

72bluNblu said:
The real mess you have is that thing underneath the MC, I don't like that at all.
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Finally took a good hard look at the thing under the MC - it appears to be a proportioning valve!
 
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Trevor B said:
Yup, the calipers hit the sway bar. Definitely going to do the switch.
Is there anything rubber besides dust boots and brake hoses I'm going to need to swap the spindles?
I'll swap the entire array from one side to the other so as not to have to change hose length. Anything I should watch out for? Or... Should the brake hoses be replaced as a matter of course?
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You have to change the hose length. Unless you're planning on moving the hard lines and tab on the frame. The new location for the calipers requires a longer hose.


Trevor B said:
Finally took a good hard look at the thing under the MC - it appears to be a proportioning valve!
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Hmm. I would take a good look at how the brake lines are plumbed. I assume then this was a drum/drum car that only had a distribution block before the swap. Which is fine, it would need a prop valve installed in that case. But the mess of hoses coming out from there doesn't look well routed, and there seems to be a hodgepodge of old and new lines, probably with a few extra connectors thrown in to make it all work. I mean it probably works, it's just not something I like to see considering that's what stops the car. I admit that I have rednecked my share of parts to make things work, but that's not a strategy I like to apply to the braking system.
 
Got it - will get F Body hoses.
Does seem like a lot of extra hose there (between the master cylinder and proportioning valve). There is an electrical lead coming out of the proportioning valve that is clogging up the picture but is not attached to anything. There is no question that the person(s) who did this stuff left a lot to be desired!
 
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Guys - are the spindles symmetrical with regard to the mounting holes for the lower ball joints? All the studying I'm doing makes it look like (as currently mounted) the rear lower ball joint/steering knuckle arm mounting hole is lower than the front. Am I just seeing things? If it's true, will this mess with the geometry of the suspension when they are reversed?
 
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