De-Pin a headlight switch connector

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SlantedMark4

SlantedMark4

'74 Valiant 225 /6
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I have never done this so it might be a very stupid question. I have absolutely no clue how to de-pin a headlight switch connector.
My situation:
Because the windshield gasket is leaking, water dripped into the dashboard and inside the electrics of the cluster. The headlight switch connector pins are completely rusted and it seems to have had a short earlier because the (new) headlight switch has melted plastic on it and the connector itself is completely gone.
On the plus side, i have an old connector on an unused dashboard harness which I could use, but how do I have to remove the wires/pins without damaging the housing?

Easiest way is to get a new connector but I have only found 9pin connectors instead of the 7pin connector.

May '74 built Valiant, Slant Six, 4 door

IMG_20250107_190813780.jpg
IMG_20250107_191308092.jpg
 
See how the terminal openings are rectangular but they have that little notched area on one side? Push whatever tool you're going to use into that notched area and there is a little tang about halfway down the metal connector that will press down. Then pull the wire out.

You may have to push the wire forward first, push the tang down and then pull the wire out.
 
ESP47 said:
See how the terminal openings are rectangular but they have that little notched area on one side
Click to expand...
This is the notch

Screenshot_20250107-221437.png

ESP47 said:
Push whatever tool you're going to use into that notched area and there is a little tang about halfway down the metal connector that will press down
Click to expand...
This is the little tang
Screenshot_20250107-221712~2.png


Good video.

 
take a snapped hacksaw blade
grind 1 inch length of the tooth side down until you end up with a strip that is the width of the hole in the connector. trim length if necessary to get the right amount of pry/press/twist to ping back the tang
press the none ground end with the blade mounting pin in it into a handle made of epoxy putty or cork or hey.. drill a split bit of dowel and bolt it on to the blade. you only need to make this tool once..... with a handle on it, it looks less like scrap and you won't stick it in the scrap bin

push the thin end down the key slot in the connector and push or pull out the spade or spade receiver.

raise the tangs on the new connectors
check then crimp. the spade type you have is the easiest to deal with, they are rear loading, crimp and load into plastic carrier

pull or push connector back into place, until the tang pings into place
 
Last edited:
Update: I just got home 20min ago and rushed straight to try your advise and yes it worked
Click to expand...

Thank you all!

Now I have to check the car's pins. I think I have to replace them with new terminals but hopefully not.

IMG_20250108_163845144.jpg
 
I would find replacements and do so, End of story. Anytime these are overheated, loose from any cause, rusted, corroded, they need to be replaced. Not only can they cause melt damage to the plastic connector housing, which are hard to replace, but they can also damage the switch itself.

If you don't have the proper crimper "W" pattern, just crimp them the best you can and then solder them. Get on ebay, buy a small bottle / can of either paste or liquid rosin core (for electrical) flux, and get some lead based electrical solder. DO NOT let someone steer you into the plumbing section of a store!!! That is acid core solder and acid flux!!!
 
Also if you have not done so, read this:



Some have criticized that article, and the way they do that bypass, but the article DOES point out the problems with the bulkhead connector WHICH ARE the same terminals as your light switch. In particular the ammeter circuit can be a problem.
 
The old connector is completely gone but I think the terminals look okay, except for the red wire. I think I can reuse them...?

IMG_20250108_165110451.jpg


IMG_20250108_165043844.jpg


IMG_20250108_165356446.jpg
 
IMHO


Green arrow look fine
Red arrow bad
Red square really bad
Yellow arrow might be ok.
Screenshot_20250108-091804.png


You can tighten up the good ones.

CAREFULLY squeeze (green arrows) a little bit.


NOTE:

all the metal on the terminals have a finite number of times that can be bent / moved.

The tangs for instance, open or close them maybe 2-3 times and they are likely to break off.
 
I wouldn't have an issue only replacing the red one. You may have to cut the wire back and splice a wire in there so they're all the same length again.

No need for a crimp tool. Just use a pair of needle nose to crimp as close to the factory crimp as you can and then put a dab of solder on the exposed copper like you see on the black wire there.
 
SlantedMark4 said:
I have searched the internet and I found this:
Mopar Male Female 12 AWG Gauge Wire Wiring Harness Terminal Crimp Connectors NOS | eBay
These are the right ones? The gauge wires are same as the light switch wires thats no question.

I have also found this:
Female Spade Terminal Set (5x) : 14-12 Gauge
Click to expand...

The second link looks closer to the type. The first link looks like the type you'd use in the bulkhead connector. The end of the female connector looks different if you compare it to your pictures.
 
ESP47 said:
The second link looks closer to the type. The first link looks like the type you'd use in the bulkhead connector. The end of the female connector looks different if you compare it to your pictures.
Click to expand...
so the terminals of the bulkhead are different to other connectors?
 
Dana67Dart said:
IMHO


Green arrow look fine
Red arrow bad
Red square really bad
Yellow arrow might be ok.
View attachment 1716349888

You can tighten up the good ones.

CAREFULLY squeeze (green arrows) a little bit.


NOTE:

all the metal on the terminals have a finite number of times that can be bent / moved.

The tangs for instance, open or close them maybe 2-3 times and they are likely to break off.
Click to expand...
Okay I start with the red wire and decide about replacing the others based on my skill
 
SlantedMark4 said:
Okay I start with the red wire and decide about replacing the others based on my skill
Click to expand...
Proper crimping is a bit of a skill and you need the correct tools.





I would do some test crimps to get the hang of it.

I can not stress the proper tool for the job.

Typical parts store crimper does not do a proper job.
 
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