AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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The 5-wire harness will accept either a 4-pin ECU or a 5-pin ECU with no changes; the extra pin is just not required on the 4 pin
See I was searching and the 5 pin harness will go to either but what it's wired to changes. So I went and got a 2 post ignition resistor and another 4 post and a starter relay. I searched and got the wiring for the 4 pin ICM and I will go through and rewire my ignition system to the 2 post resistor.The 5-wire harness will accept either a 4-pin ECU or a 5-pin ECU with no changes; the extra pin is just not required on the 4 pin
I will have to check out the wiring then and check it. I have an EZ wiring harness and I've just been trying to figure out wiring for it. I used there diagram but I had no power to the coil.I'll say it again; the factory 5-pin harness will accept either ECU with no changes. The un-used side of the 4-post resister just dead ends.It was the power supply to the 5-pinner. The 4-pinner takes it's power from a different pin,no biggie.
You are free to change your wiring of course, but what happens when 500 miles from nowhere your 4-pin ECU dies?And all you can find is a 5-pin replacement....... just something to think about.
Wait is that seriously all?? Do you still use the Ignition control module???
Haha I realize this was a super general question. My thing is right now I'm just trying to get it running but the plan is to drag race it all next summer. It's one of those things I planned on swapping to a MSD 6AL2 and upgrading the whole system. But I had not really thought of running an HEI system because I didn't realize it was that easy to swap too. It brings in another factor to consider and think about.That's a loaded question
For most streeters an MSD is way more than we need.
For most streeters, an old points system will be adequate 85% of the time or more;
the HEI makes it 100%, for 98% of streeters.
All figures may have been exaggerated for effect
This is the most truthful thing I've heard. I'm thinking HEI will be fine to get it running for the winter. Thank you for the diagram JoeSBP!if you are going to race, I would just get it running, then direct your funds where the car asks you too, because she will not be shy about asking once you really start to hammer on her...
I ended up doing this at work so it was kind of just a guess. I have to move it forward a bit. But I think it will work well enough so I can drive it 10 miles to the truck shop where I work. I'm still debating on a Lokar throttle cable set up. But once I get it to work I will go through the car and seal up some small holes and loom all my wiring and get it nice and neat. I've been planning and I will probably end up going to a totally different fuse panel set up and making a relay set up. But that's down the road. I'm hoping to have it driving soon so I can take it to work and start doing some work on it in a nicer shop that's fully set up. Plan is to be doing bodywork in late December and January.When you raised the height, I guess you moved it forward about an inch or so?
A lot of guys are doing that these days . It seems the factory 4bbl brackets are disappearing and the aftermarket stuff SEEMS pricey.
It looked a little rough but there was a drag racing sticker from 97 in the window, that got my attention. The year I was born somebody was racing this car! I got super excited and called my uncle for some help. I had no idea what I was looking at so I got him to help. (My uncle has been racing amd building mopars for years at Woodburn Dragstrip) He came on out and took a look at it with me and decided that it was a good start.
I can tell you that I've lived long enough and seen enough that I don't believe in coincidences.
Is it synchronicity?
I think there are forces at work we cannot see.
Maybe someone or Someone behind you getting the car twice.
I often wonder if memories attached to cars are not part of the cars.
The wiper motors seemed to have been an afterthought from Chrysler.
The prints, (that I've seen) stop at the connector.
Makes one have to figure out what is in side the motor.
Ground is through that brass ribbon.
Basically, there is a "switch" integral to the motor gear.
And when the power is switched to the park wire in the car, power then goes to that motor switch instead of directly to the motor .
When the motor switch is in the correct position, the power to the motor is cut off via the motor switch.
It stops.
That's the extent of my knowledge on the one that I've overhauled.
It was a variable motor and a two speed switch car anyway.
So, you went HEI?
GM stuff then?
I would never run an MSD on the street, again.
I've been stranded and I want something I can unplug and put another part in to replace it.
That's all I've got to say on that. (He says in his Forrest Gump voice.)
I'm running this on my daily driver and I'm happy with it.
FBO Ignition, Distributor tuning and Carburetion Professionals, FBO Ignition systems, Ford Ignition, Mopar Ignition, Ford Distributors, Mopar Distributors, Ford distributor curving, Mopar distributor curving, HEI Ignition, MSD ignition tuning,
If you don't know, all the ECUs from the parts stores are junk.
Or at least a crap shoot.
You know what you are doing.
Carry on.