Decent Deal? Anything stick out that should cause me to not make the trek?

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Texas. 8 hours to look at a classic is just a short stroll!!
Factory had runs in every engine compartment of every old Mopar with oem paint.If restored decades ago, their painter might had done better~! They were sloppy. Factory sheet metal gaps were terrible. Mid to late 70s Mopars were even worse.

Only way to get a car with everything like YOU want it is to do it all yourself, or pay a guy to do it exactly as YOU want it.
 
If you're going to drive 4 hours bring coveralls, good flashlight, a jack and jack stands. Check the radiator support vin stamp numbers compared to the title to see if it's been hit in the front. They should match. Start the car and make sure the electrical system is good. lol, make sure wipers, horn, lights, turn signals, interior lights etc work. Crawl under the car and check motor numbers and any rusted or patched framework. If you're not happy with the paint job and body work add a few thousand more to the purchase price. Walk away. $25k isn't chump change for most people
 
Not much to add really, if it's a true #'s car in good shape it's worth it. Most sellers are firm with price on the phone(I don't blame them). That doesn't mean pointing out flaws won't lower price.
Under dash wiring is a big one. If it looks modified/cobbled than ask yourself how proficient you are at acrobatics and wiring? Replacing underhood wiring is waaaayyyyy easier than under dash. Less $$ less headache and less downtime.
Chk bulkhead connectors from under hood and under dash.
Chk ALL #'s. Rad cradle, trunk lip(ds under weather stripping).
Lots of good advice in this thread. Make a chk list from it. Take a magnet too.
Good luck!
By the way, 4 hrs is nothing to chk a #'s car, any car for that matter. Oh and him being an old guy? They can be asshole scammers too, so be careful.
 
My worry of course would be that it was originally pale green, and now it’s red, including the engine bay. That to me means the engine was out, and a complete respray. And that means to me that body work has been done, and if it hasn’t been done, it’s a hose job. Either way, that to me seriously effects the value of the car. $25k for that year car is about right at the top end, hanky panky lowers the value for me.
 
Here I was thinking $25k was a steal given that dealers are asking $35k-$50k for clean 340 cars.

I’m leaning toward still checking it out using the great advice I’ve gotten here but not being afraid to walk away if the car isn’t a winner.
 
I think the car looks great; however, it looks like it's been painted red a couple times. The paint is faded under hood. That's a great car though especially with the 4-speed. Factory Bucket seats too and no A/C or Power Steering. These cars came with a lot of pluses, like-Factory Electronic Ignition, Disc Brakes, Sway Bar, Real Seat Belts that go across your body, big bolt patter wheels, beams inside the doors for safety etc. Like you mentioned in perfect condition you would pay a lot more. If you have some skills, it would be a great car. Go check for rust underneath, in the quarters, and trunk and if its good!
 
By the way, the car is also very rare. Don't have the number in front of me, but probably less than 800 built. Oh, check for any frame damage too.
 
Most of the cars selling on Mecum look real shiny! Everywhere. If everything under that hood is NOT new, it all sure looks new. Maybe it just came out of a $100,000 resto. Maybe the detailer is a master of making it all look perfectly new!!?? Maybe it was high $ resto done a couple years ago and never driver..ever?? And, I bet the only time a Mecum car bring that price again...is at another Mecum auction!!???

Whats funny on our car hobby, is just how the word "restoration can mean anything ranging from the guy that bolts on a used water pump from the local swap using grade 3 hardware bolts to the pro shop charging the owner $100,000 and it still is not "just like brand new!!" No wonder guys are careful how they spend their $$$$!!!/
 
How old is the paint job? Very Important to know age.

Do you have a friend you can bring along that is knowledgeable on old cars?

You are in new york so be on the hunt for rust in the lower body, floors and frame rails.

Use weak magnets to find rust and filler, or get a depth gauge. I was selling a car and this gage a buyer brought could find out how deep the paint and Bondo was, very good tool to see what's under the resale red.
 
413 said:
How old is the paint job? Very Important to know age.

Do you have a friend you can bring along that is knowledgeable on old cars?

You are in new york so be on the hunt for rust in the lower body, floors and frame rails.

Use weak magnets to find rust and filler, or get a depth gauge. I was selling a car and this gage a buyer brought could find out how deep the paint and Bondo was, very good tool to see what's under the resale red.
Click to expand...
Car was painted in 2022. Will see if I can find a depth gauge!
 
I drove 6+ hours one way last year to look at a car, and didn't buy it. Spent a night in a hotel and drove home, well worth the few hundred dollars to find out it wasn't worth the money.
 
missing linc said:
I drove 6+ hours one way last year to look at a car, and didn't buy it. Spent a night in a hotel and drove home, well worth the few hundred dollars to find out it wasn't worth the money.
Click to expand...
100% - I don’t mind the trip even if it doesn’t work out. My biggest concern is finding a shop or someone to look at the car for me since I am still learning and do not know enough to feel comfortable inspecting it myself. Hopefully can find a shop close by that has some experience in classics.
 
Fizzer6001 said:
Here I was thinking $25k was a steal given that dealers are asking $35k-$50k for clean 340 cars.

I’m leaning toward still checking it out using the great advice I’ve gotten here but not being afraid to walk away if the car isn’t a winner.
Click to expand...
Anyone asking $35-$50k for a '73+ A-body is on crack.
 
Decades ago, I have restored some "worthy" cars to probably as perfect as makes sense. Yes they all found new homes, years ago.
If I had a perfect on today, I would be tempted to tell a prospective buyer it is NOT perfect, then if he came to look, he would be either pleasantly surprised or he would question his ability to appraise the work!!!!

Now days I know I have non that are 100% perfect, and even if very very nice, I just call them drivers!!!!! :BangHead:
 
Be careful with the driver description

So many flippers eventually say "it's just a driver". Then when you get there they revert back to this disclaimer on the POS they are trying to pawn off.
 
Took a 5 hour trip to look at a 69 road runner. Was raining when I got there. Owner was insistent I look at it in the parking lot of some strip center instead of in the dry at his house. Got back in the car and went home. Long trip but did not regret it. If you don't examine car carefully or don't have the means to then it's not worth it. Something else will come along. I don't like color changes to cars anyway unless done properly and this one is not an exception.
 
Well, we can all agree that it's not a $100K resto shop job, with all the obvious little things- screw clamps on the hoses, the hoses themselves, corrugated wire sleeves, unrouted/loose harness sections, incorrect master, etc. All things that are relatively easy to correct.
As said, concentrate on the big things- the rust prone areas, systems operations (brakes, charging system, lighting, gauges, etc.).
The spooky thing to me is the hack job done on the stereo installation: the connections to the battery, the amp, crossover, and subwoofer installation, etc. Not a quality job worthy of a 25K asking price. Was the dash cut for the head unit? Are the speakers hacked in? Are the power supplies of an adequate gauge, and properly fused and with relays?
It would make me nervous about the rest of the wiring system and the shortcuts that may have been taken. Outside of structural and major mechanical issues, electrical can be one of the biggest bugaboos on these old girls, and one of the biggest pains to get sorted out.
Also the carpeting in the trunk can hide a multitude of sins; wiring, rust, other damage...
 
When Evan and I went to look at Vixen in 2019, we went like idiots pulling a trailer. I didn't "really" look at her all that close. I saw all the rust on the outside. I didn't pull the carpet back, though. Got her home and the entire rear floor pans were rusted out. That was really way more work than what I wanted to do, but I did it and I'm glad I did. She's been the most fun car I've ever had. So it can cut both ways. If you get there and you see it needs work, use that as a bargaining chip if you decide you want it. But like everyone else has said, don't be afraid to walk away. There are others out there.
 
Although kinda an apples and oranges comparison, look at this car.
www.forabodiesonly.com

[FOR SALE] - 1972 Plymouth Duster 360/727/8.75”

I’ve decided to thin the heard and list my 72 Plymouth Duster. This is a head turner nice street/strip car. Runs consistent 12.40s and I drive it often in the summer months. Stock stroke 1971 360 with iron heads 1.95 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves. Crane Gold 1.5 rockers solid flat tappet cam...
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com
While it may not be what you're looking for, IMO it's in better shape than what you're looking at and for less money. Certainly it's more car as far as performance. Also, it's owned by a member in very good standing. If you are even THINKING about blowing one down the strip every now and then that car above might be worth looking at. It certainly shows you that there are more cars out there to look at.
 
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