Decisions, Decisions...

[Thrashard340]

I have a 1973 Duster 340. I have a set of 95 318 Magnum manifolds, a set of Summit headers (part # G9040), or I can leave the stock 340 manifolds on. Any suggestions? I hear the Summit headers are a pain to install but I am trying to open up the exhaust a bit. Thanks.

 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

pretty much any header in a abody willbe a pain to install. unless you go for the million dollar TTi's, but ive heard a couple stories on them too. Personally i would run headers, i dont mind dealing with leaks, pain spark plug changes, and sacrificed ground clearance lol.

 

[Thrashard340]

Thanks Goody, I just spoke with a local exhaust shop in the area. They say for an additional $300 bucks, they'll put the headers on when they redo the exhaust. I guess I'll just have to deal with the knucklebashin' changing plugs and starters. T340

 

[fishy68]

Go with the mini starter and that will eliminate the starter problem at least. That's what I did. You can R&R it without touching the headers unlike the old heavy weight stock monster starter. I'll say this that shops probably gonna be sorry they quoted you $300 to install those headers. I've heard bad things about fitment on the cheapies. Heck even the Hookers I bought were a friggin nightmare to install. There's several places where you can barely slide a piece of paper through it's so close. To be honest if it were me I'd go with the good 340 manifolds before cheapie headers anyday. Mopar Muscle did a dyno test awhile back and there was only about 10-12 hp difference.

 

[Thrashard340]

Go with the mini starter and that will eliminate the starter problem at least. That's what I did. You can R&R it without touching the headers unlike the old heavy weight stock monster starter. I'll say this that shops probably gonna be sorry they quoted you $300 to install those headers. I've heard bad things about fitment on the cheapies. Heck even the Hookers I bought were a friggin nightmare to install. There's several places where you can barely slide a piece of paper through it's so close. To be honest if it were me I'd go with the good 340 manifolds before cheapie headers anyday. Mopar Muscle did a dyno test awhile back and there was only about 10-12 hp difference.

Thanks for the advice Fishy68. I am planning on installing the ministarter along with the 90 degree oil filter before the headers go on. I am also in the midst of planning to have another 340 built but that is for another forum topic. If that is the case, then I will probably upgrade to the TTI headers because I am planning on a stroker engine combo which will probably call for 1 3/4 tube headers instead of the 1 5/8 that I have right now.

 

[fishy68]

No problem T340. Another thing to note about the TTI's is not only do they fit much better but they make alot more power. Mopar Muscle's test showed them making something like 30 hp over stock manifolds which is 15+ over the other headers. As soon as my Hookers are shot (which probably won't be over a year or 2 as low as they hang down) I'm switching over.

 

[Locomotion]

Thanks for the advice Fishy68. I am planning on installing the ministarter along with the 90 degree oil filter before the headers go on. I am also in the midst of planning to have another 340 built but that is for another forum topic. If that is the case, then I will probably upgrade to the TTI headers because I am planning on a stroker engine combo which will probably call for 1 3/4 tube headers instead of the 1 5/8 that I have right now.

Any headers you install will require the 90* oil filter adapter to be removed first. The TTI's will work well with your current engine as well as the larger engine. They step from 1 5/8" to 1 3/4". The dyno comparison shows they work well on mild engines.

Mopar Muscle exhaust dyno comparison:
http://moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/155_0307_exhaust/

I have them on my race car and have run as fast as mid-11's at over 3,530 lbs! Several other fast 360 Mopars in IHRA have them too! If you have the exhaust system routed to match the headers you have now, it will likely require some more modifications to line it up with the TTI's!

Just a suggestion, but it seems you could save money in the long run, which will help pay for the TTI's, if you get them installed first!

* If you have the time, you can probably install them yourself. ($300)
* Sell the 90* oil filter adapter.
* Sell the Summit headers.
* The rest of the exhaust system will be done the first time. No re-aligning the pipes for different headers.

I would recommend the ceramic coating outside as well as inside.

 

[fishy68]

Any headers you install will require the 90* oil filter adapter to be removed first. The TTI's will work well with your current engine as well as the larger engine. They step from 1 5/8" to 1 3/4". The dyno comparison shows they work well on mild engines.

Mopar Muscle exhaust dyno comparison:
http://moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/155_0307_exhaust/

I have them on my race car and have run as fast as mid-11's at over 3,530 lbs! Several other fast 360 Mopars in IHRA have them too! If you have the exhaust system routed to match the headers you have now, it will likely require some more modifications to line it up with the TTI's!

Just a suggestion, but it seems you could save money in the long run, which will help pay for the TTI's, if you get them installed first!

* If you have the time, you can probably install them yourself. ($300)
* Sell the 90* oil filter adapter.
* Sell the Summit headers.
* The rest of the exhaust system will be done the first time. No re-aligning the pipes for different headers.

I would recommend the ceramic coating outside as well as inside.

Very good suggestions. $300 saved not installing the Summit headers is half the price of the TTI's and selling the Summit headers will add to it too. I can vouch that installing TTI's is a breaze expecially compared to all others. I haven't done it myself but a good friend of mine has and he says he won't ever buy anything else now. Good job posting the article from Mopar Muscle that I refered too. I was just going by memory and see the actual hp was really less than I remembered although a gain of nearly 25 lbs. ft of torque is nice too even if not huge.

 

[Thrashard340]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I never looked at it from that perspective. I bought the headers before I joined this forum and my previous experience with Mopar headers was on an E-body.

 

[Ace]

I run a sandwich adapter for a cooler, 2nd remote full-flow and bypass circuit under an ecore with hooker super comps - no 90deg adapter required. I'll post a pic or two next time I have a chance to get under there with the camera...
:thumblef:

 

[duster340]

pretty much any header in a abody willbe a pain to install. unless you go for the million dollar TTi's, but ive heard a couple stories on them too. Personally i would run headers, i dont mind dealing with leaks, pain spark plug changes, and sacrificed ground clearance lol.

the TTI headers are lots nicer when changing sparkpluggs and they are less likely to leak since they have the thickest flanges i have ever seen ;)

think most people having problems with bad fitting headers, may have missed something that is written in basicly every installationinstruction paper from all manufacturers of headers : make sure your engine is in the stock location and that your engine mounts are in good shape!
especialy mopar abodies are realy sensitive to bad motormounts because of the small enginecompartments!
then of course these cars are over 30years old and may not bee what they where when they left the asmbly plant;)