desperatly need engine help

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Someone correct me if im wrong but why pull the timing cover and water pump? why not pull the rocker shafts and turn crank till both pushrods are down and piston is up on number 1 and balancer is at 0 on the pointer. this is the compression stroke as it is the only time both valves are closed at no 1 tdc. hell of a lot easier than pulling timing cover. then check to see that rotor is pointing to number one plug wire. and cam timing and ignition timing is close. take a flat steel table and straighten pushrods with a hammer as best you can. install pushrods and rockers and pull plugs and pull plugs and turn motor over by crank bolt and check for binding. shouldnt take more than about 20 lbs torque to spin motor over. observe valve springs for coil bind and retainer interference. if all checks out then install new pushrods and check again for binding by hand. if all checks out install plugs and fire that puppy up.ps make sure the rights and lefts rockers are in the right locations
 
daredevil said:
anyone agree or disagree? adjustable rockers would be the ticket.
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Ok i'll bite...How are adjustable rockers going to fix any of the above potential problems? i'll list the issues you post how adjustable rockers fix any one of them?
#1 Crankshaft to Camshaft timing
#2 Retainer interferance
#3 Coil Spring Bind
# 4 Pumped up lifters
 
just a reminder to help you out. I would pull all the plugs and rotate the engine by hand while watching the valve train once everything is assembled. If you see or feel any binding then something is still wrong. It concerns me that you bent pushrods and the engine hasn't even been started yet and definately make sure your cam and crank timing is correct. Good luck with the next try at this.
 
well guys decided to do the better safe than sorry attitude, water pump and timing cover came off.....&%$#@ he put the cam in wrong. haha, i had work this morning so he put it back in and put it back together for me and the thing started immediatly! only thing to still do is work on the carb, secondary barrels arent opening and just overrall seems to be acting funky. itsa 1406 600cfm eddy. im playing around with it but ive seen ones with non electric choke for like 40 bucks on CL that im thinkin of going for, thanks for the input from everyone! hopefully this will help out some others too
 
skycuda67 said:
well guys decided to do the better safe than sorry attitude, water pump and timing cover came off.....&%$#@ he put the cam in wrong. haha, i had work this morning so he put it back in and put it back together for me and the thing started immediatly! only thing to still do is work on the carb, secondary barrels arent opening and just overrall seems to be acting funky. itsa 1406 600cfm eddy. im playing around with it but ive seen ones with non electric choke for like 40 bucks on CL that im thinkin of going for, thanks for the input from everyone! hopefully this will help out some others too
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Get a holley 600 vac i'll walk you through IFR, and other mods to get that thing to run right~
 
how exactly did he put the cam in incorrectly?

If you haven't pulled the timing set, snap a picture of it with #1 at TDC.
 
skycuda67 said:
well guys decided to do the better safe than sorry attitude, water pump and timing cover came off.....&%$#@ he put the cam in wrong. haha, i had work this morning so he put it back in and put it back together for me and the thing started immediatly! only thing to still do is work on the carb, secondary barrels arent opening and just overrall seems to be acting funky. itsa 1406 600cfm eddy. im playing around with it but ive seen ones with non electric choke for like 40 bucks on CL that im thinkin of going for, thanks for the input from everyone! hopefully this will help out some others too
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Thanks for the reply. That is why we said to start with the cam timing.
 
If the cam was in wrong and you bent pushrods there is a good chance the pushrods were bent when the valves hit the pistons. You said it's running kinda "funky".
 
ya by funky i meant its not wanting to idle, or stay in low rpms, thats why im thinkin its just the carb. keep it above 2000 rpm and she runs beautifully
 
demon seed said:
Start from the beginning by first making sure that the cam is set correctly to the crank (dot to dot) with #1 at TDC end of compression stroke beginning power stroke. If this is correct pull the heads and have the retainers and checked for coil bind with that cam. Check the valve stem to guide clearance on all 16 valves and check each valve to make sure you didn't bend one of them shortly before bending the push rods. The push rods are usually the first to bend if the piston hits the valve, because the cam is set wrong, but all the valve stems need to be checked anyway.
I have my doubts that this problem is going to cheap and dirty, sorry.

Terry
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Dear Skycuda, please read my original post. Since the pistons were obviously smacking the valves and therefore bending the push rods, ALL THE VALVES ON BOTH HEADS NEED TO BE CHECKED FOR STRAIGHT AND THE BOZO THAT ORIGINALLY PUT YOUR ENGINE TOGETHER, AND GOT IT WRONG, SHOULD DO THE JOB INCLUDING ANY PARTS FOR "FREE". Each valve must be chucked in a lathe, spun and the valve O.D. and face runout taken and recorded. It may just be my opinion but doing anything short of this check is half assed and potentially could bite you down the road. It also could explain why the idle is crappy as a matter a fact I'd start by getting a compression test done with you witnessing it.

Terry
 
Demonseed is spot on with his diagnosis. If the cam was installed wrong which is a relatively easy part of the build then what else is wrong? I know it's alot of work to tear down an engine and check your builders work but, it sure is better than dropping it in and ruining it because something wasn't right.
Regardless of what is done I wish you the best of luck with your engine issues.
 
#2 for doing a leakdown test. Or if it's too much, just a std compression test.
 
ya i'll start with the compression test, just started workin full time so time is a little more limited to work on her :/. so its really soundin like this cam isnt worth messin with can anyone reccomend one that will do really well with my setup?? not hard to replace so think im gonna do that if this one turns out to not do much for me. my setup again is : 318, .030 over, dual dish forged pistons 9.5:1, 340 heads(1.88/1.60), eddy intake and carb (has probs, might switch to holley), 727 manual valve, 3.55 rear gears, what you guys reccomend?
 
I don't think that cam is that bad. We put a .508 cam in a nearly stock 318 and with a fairly loose converter and a 750 VS Holley it performed quite well. I think you'll find if you put a larger carb on it a lot of your issues will go away. Assuming it doesn't have any mechanical problems from the previous blunder. You may need a looser converter though. That really helps it idle in gear.

Additionally you may need to drill the carb butterflies to get enough air flow. What happens is guys keep cranking the idle screw down until the butterflies are passed the transfer slots. Then the carb isn't running on the idle circuit, it's running on the main metering system causing all kinds of idle problems.

I would also recommend a Holley with down leg boosters instead of those crappy straight leg ones that come in most of the carbs. They're fine for a stock engine but I've never been able to make them work well with a modified engine where the vacuum signal isn't as strong.
 
It's not the cam that may have the problem. It may be running crappy because you damaged something else. A leakdown will tell you if that is the case. A compression test may note a problem, but won't tell you where.
 
All here that said to check all the valves for the bendies hold up your hands.:cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:

Terry
 
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