Diagram , Photos connecting dashboard

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mecanovi

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hi,

Can you give me a diagram or photos of connecting the sensor engine and a fuel gauge for the dashboard ?

thank
 
You're going to have to be a bit more specific. What year/model of car are you working on? What does "the sensor engine" mean? Also, what are you asking when you say "a fuel gauge for the dashboard". Do you want to use an aftermarket gauge or get the existing one working or what?


mecanovi said:
hi,

Can you give me a diagram or photos of connecting the sensor engine and a fuel gauge for the dashboard ?

thank
Click to expand...
 
ok,

Plymouth valiant 1964 , slant 6

diagram and photos :
connecting origine fuel gauge instrument cluster
connecting origine cooler gauge instrument cluster
 
Someone just posted a link to the rear of the dash on one of these not long ago.

I can't help with photos, but here's what may be helpful diagrams

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1964/64ValiantA.jpg

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1964/64ValiantB.jpg

I don't know how close the 64 is to the 66 cars, but here's a 66 shop manual you can download for free:

EDIT it appears that the 64 and 66 are NOT the same

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip

In the shot below, which is from diagram "A" above,

A, orange, is the dimmer controlled dash lamps feed, IE gauge illumination

B, LT GREEN, is left side turn signal indicator

C, TAN, is right side turn signal indicator

E, VIOLET, is from temp sender

F, LT BLUE, is from fuel sender

G, BLACK, is switched accessory power from ignition switch

H, GRAY, is from oil pressure switch

J, DK BLUE, is switched "ignition run" from ignition switch
 

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thank you

I do not find voltage regulator (6V) behind the instrument cluster

What the clips on the piece circled in red (photo)?

 
Your dash voltage regulator (Vreg) is inside the fuel level gage. The pin you circled in red is the Vreg output, as I recall. These circuit boards are so simple that anybody can trace the paths to each element. There are no traces on the other side.

I had the cluster in my 65 Dart out a year ago, and currently have my 64 Valiant cluster out, awaiting work. Some maintenance & upgrades you should consider:

1. replace the internal Vreg with a new electronic one. Search "voltage limiter" and "Plymouth" on ebay ($25). There was a post here a week or so ago with links to photos (RT Engineering or such, I recall).

2. Check and resolder the circular connector pins. The solder joints often crack.

3. Sand the ammeter connections and tighten well. Use silicone dielectric grease. These terminals carry up to 40 A, so can overheat and melt if corroded. If you upgrade your alternator, look up my post on adding bypass diodes in the engine bay to protect the ammeter but leave operational, or just bypass it totally in the engine bay.

4. Replace the lamps bulbs with LED type (ebay). Cheap, should last forever, and look nice. Also, sand the copper and grease.

5. Check the speedometer. It should not wobble in the bore, and the needle should move smoothly when you spin it with a drill. If loose, the spinning magnet will eventually grab the aluminum cup and break it (bad) or your cable (better). I had the one in my 65 Newport re-bushed at a speedometer shop long ago.

6. For looks, remove the clear lenses from the chrome plastic and polish. Not easy since you must drill the plastic posts and epoxy back. I also removed the bad chrome paint w/ a soak in Super Clean. I had all dash plastic "rechromed" at Sacramento Chrome for $110.

Good Luck
 
Example of a solid state regulator on 64 A-body panel. There is a small plastic spacer beneath its mounting to hold it away from the printed circuit.
The original mechanical limiter has been removed.
 

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ok , mais j'ai acheté ce limiteur VRC601 et j'aimerais le monté sur les jauges . Mais pas de schema de montage ????
 
il faut peut-etre que le limiteur chauffe pour etre efficace

que me conseillez-vous d'acheter ???
 
I don't know about anyone else but all I get is the French language on this end.
That's probably why you aren't getting any response back.
I'm one who never studied a different language.
 
'ai reçu ce matin le régulateur electronique , le condensateur et j'ai le montage

ensuite j'ai remonté le tableau de bord apres avoir testé les jauges d'essence et de temperature .

Entrée jauge essence 5v , sortie 5v , jauge OK
Entrée jauge t° 5v , sortie 0v , jauge HS

La jauge d'essence ne fonctionne pas .
J'ai mis le fil sortant de la jauge d'essence à la masse et la jauge monte
continuité du fil jusqu'au reservoir ok
La jauge dans le resservoir doit etre HS (5.02 Mohm)

la jauge est facile a remplacer car elle est sur le devant du reservoir
 
at the senders temp, oil pressure use a 10 ohm resistor attach one to the wire and ground the other end with key on gauge should read full/Hot/High.
 
mecanovi said:
Hi , I buy a voltage limiter "VRC601" http://www.ebay.com/ctg/Standard-Mo...nt-Cluster-Voltage-Regulator-Switch-/74411208 je l'ai branché en : 1 : 12v 3 : ground normalement en 2 je devrais avoir 5 v et bien non j'ai 12v What ?????
Click to expand...


Finally, someone provided a "pin-out" of this style regulator. Even though it's in French, I get it. I bought one of these thinking it fit my 68 barracuda but i don't think it does. I have the gas guage regulated type I think. But since I have one of these now, i was going to use it instead of the solid state types since it is better designed to work the guages properly (although not as trouble free as a solid state type).

What I don't get is why the guy at napa sold it to me in the first place since I told him what type of car it was for, plus it was a special order. I'm glad he did though, although I did pay quite a bit more for it than the ones on e-bay, but they aren't echlin's either.

I will be using the 3 wire connection pic linked to earlier in the thread. I actually think my circuit board is cracked as well which my be part of my problems. Don't know for sure but given all the crap that's wrong back there, it has to be something that cuts across multiple circuits, like a crack or a main voltage feed. Only a couple of the lights actually work (after a replacement of all I could reach). Thanks again for this thread, all the responses and all the links provided.

Paul
 
1968 notch,

Most 1968 cars would have the "plug-in" Vreg in the photo (my 1969 Dart did). However, if your car has a tachometer ("rally dash"), then your Vreg is still inside the fuel gage (until ~1973). I doubt you could easily adapt the 3 spade box you have. I would take it back to NAPA, or if you lucked out and paid <$15, perhaps flip it on ebay since I recall they often sell for $50. The electronic Vreg works much better, unless you think a slightly pulsing needle is preferable (artifact of old thermal on-off control). Buy a "voltage limiter" with ring terminals ($30 ebay). You must open your fuel gage and disable the internal Vreg. I slid heat shrink over the wire-wound arm.

With an electric Vreg, you can adjust the voltage to get your fuel gage to read correctly at "E", or "F", or your temperature gage to read correct. Pick 1 of 3. My preference is knowing exactly where "E" is. There are other mechanical tweaks on the gage, but a bit tricky. I added resistors to fine tune all 3 readings.
 
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