Did the Assembly Plants Lubricate Starter/Flywheel Teeth?

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You can back out of any bone head reply with a "of course I was joking.." we'll run with that. Of course their other posts are now subject to scrutiny. I have had a ring gear llse a tooth or 2 and I certainly did land on that spot on multiple occasions. Manual trans fix, just roll call back with your left foot and pop the clutch in R and move the flywheel 3-4 degrees. I know grease would not have saved that....
 
When you get too much static
No thats actually the volume potentiometer if you get static on volume adjustment..use deoxit contact cleaner directly into the pot and cycle the pot about 20 times. Tuner won't benefit from grease unless its the axles of the capacitor tuner plate array.
 
On an aside, How many of you have had a starter jam a tooth?

I've had this happen in one way or another, perhaps 6 times over all the years. Once was on the little Farmall. "Back when" I drove mostly stick shift, you could sometimes put the thing in high gear, and "jounce" the suspension back and forth, and generate enough inertia to knock it loose. But the Farmall HAS to suspension, and pushes hard. I had to unbolt the starter.
 
No thats actually the volume potentiometer if you get static on volume adjustment..use deoxit contact cleaner directly into the pot and cycle the pot about 20 times. Tuner won't benefit from grease unless its the axles of the capacitor tuner plate array.

In fact, I JUST did that last night to the radio in Kitty's Escape. The volume pot gets dirty after a time and I take the radio out, skeet it good with electronic cleaner, cycle it several times, blow it out with air, rinse and repeat. Works good now...again.
 
Frankly, I'm surprised that such starters as the old "twist Bendix" and the Ford/AMC style work as long as they do

Many years ago "in another life" a friend of mine's cousin and his "boys" were "Big Hammer and bang loggers." EVerything was done by brute force. If that didn't work, USE MORE --brute force

They had a 70's Ford 1 ton 460 used for the "gopher" truck. Oxy-acet, engine powered welder, and slip tank in the back. "It got down" into the ruts of the local logging roads.

He had bought a replacement starter, and not long after came back in a rage, " the starter quit, it left us stranded." Took it in the back and pulled the thing apart---it would not turn

IT WAS CLEAR FULL OF MUD

His answer: "So?" "So what?"

Too dumb to "get it". Probably had left the dust cover off the bell, as well, I bet

Yeah, if it doesn't fit, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacement anyway. And you can always tell a Ford mechanic by his full set of hammers.
 
The only lubricant applied by Chrysler corp to the ring gear was paint...sometimes it was red, sometimes turquoise, sometimes blue, sometimes yellow. No grease EVER. Starter drives were bare steel, and DRY. I worked at a dealership back in the early 70's and a few vehicles wouldn't start on the delivery truck due to production coatings on the copper solenoid contacts inside the starter, so I got to see first hand what "new" looked like. Save your grease for your ball joints.
 
No thats actually the volume potentiometer if you get static on volume adjustment..use deoxit contact cleaner directly into the pot and cycle the pot about 20 times.
Tuner won't benefit from grease unless its the axles of the capacitor tuner plate array.
Just use squelch grease.............
 
The only lubricant applied by Chrysler corp to the ring gear was paint...sometimes it was red, sometimes turquoise, sometimes blue, sometimes yellow. No grease EVER. Starter drives were bare steel, and DRY. I worked at a dealership back in the early 70's and a few vehicles wouldn't start on the delivery truck due to production coatings on the copper solenoid contacts inside the starter, so I got to see first hand what "new" looked like. Save your grease for your ball joints.

Yall have lost yer minds. Whatchyawl think them holes tween the teefies are for? To pack slam fulla grease. I swear, I gotta take all yawl on to raise. LOL
 
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