dip stick and bearings

[midlifecuda]

Two issues, first my 1972 225 keeps shearing off the bottem of dip sticks. I bought the universal dipstick at parts store, changed the oil and then set the dipstick so the 5 qts read at the full mark. I started the engine (also did this prior to the new dipstick so that the filter was full and then let it all settle down) for about 30 sec. Then checked the stick and no problems. Drove for about 15 min and checked, the stick was missing about an inch from the bottem and was bent. I was told in an earlier post that this yr should be about 18" long (which seems correct) and from what I've seen, there are no bends in the stock stick. Any thoughts. Also, have a rebuilt 225 that was never run. Tore it down because the privious machine shop left a significant ridge in the #1 cylinder and I'm having it sleeved. Can I reuse the main and rod bearings, again, never run but was torqued to specks.

 

[66aCUDA]

Dipstick angle and the housing that presses into the block (Length and Orientation) have a lot bearing on whether the crank hits the dipstick and shears it off.
I would ask if sleeving the block is cheaper than new pistons. The slant block can be machined .140 over and still work fine (even foe a race engine). It is common to cut the bore to 3.505 from 3.400.
Frank

 

[midlifecuda]

The motor has 40 over forged pistons so I would like to use these. As far as I can see, the tube is the original tube and the stick sould only have a bend after the top seal. If someone could add a picture of this yr stick (previous thread said there were three different sticks) I could see what it looks like.

 

[grumpuscreature]

Also, have a rebuilt 225 that was never run. Tore it down because the privious machine shop left a significant ridge in the #1 cylinder and I'm having it sleeved. Can I reuse the main and rod bearings, again, never run but was torqued to specks.

Sure can. Make sure you relube them when you install them.

 

[66aCUDA]

Does your holder have a hold down that bolts to anything? If not then its most likely the angle. It may have gotten bent or clocked in relation to the crank. I dont have a 72 to measure or check.
Frank

 

[torquehouse]

[/QUOTE]Also, have a rebuilt 225 that was never run. Tore it down because the privious machine shop left a significant ridge in the #1 cylinder and I'm having it sleeved. Can I reuse the main and rod bearings, again, never run but was torqued to specks.[/QUOTE]

I wouldn't reuse the bearings for the same reason you can't mix main or rod caps on the block or rods. Each bearing bore measures differently and the bearing crush will be different in each bore. You're asking for a spun bearing if you reuse them.

 

[Shaker223]

Also, have a rebuilt 225 that was never run. Tore it down because the privious machine shop left a significant ridge in the #1 cylinder and I'm having it sleeved. Can I reuse the main and rod bearings, again, never run but was torqued to specks.

I wouldn't reuse the bearings for the same reason you can't mix main or rod caps on the block or rods. Each bearing bore measures differently and the bearing crush will be different in each bore. You're asking for a spun bearing if you reuse them.

You can reuse them....Just make sure they go back into their original rod/main and orientated in their origianal shell.