Disc brake conversion 67 Dart

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droptop67

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I have a 67 Dart GT convertible that I want to put front disc brakes on. I want to use spindles off of a 73-76 Dart. The question have is, because it is a convertible, I have 10" drums now, do I need to change the upper control arms? I am new to this site, and I have gotten a lot of good information from it so far.:-D
 
This is what I did to mine... didn't have to change the spindles or anything else for that matter. Installed it myself and works great. I went with the slotted rotors.

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/dodge_plymouth_discbrake_conversions.html

I didn't won't to spend $1000 on front brakes but you might be wanting the nicer kits out there.

Cuda boot area 008.jpg
 
The 9 and 10 inch drum brakes both used the smaller upper ball joint.
The disc brake spindles use a larger ball joint. Its larger on both ends.
Recently someone produced tapered bushings that would fill the void between the smaller ball joints stem and the hole in the disc brake spindle.
That would allow keeping the same upper arms and small ball joints you have now. I have not used those tapered bushings , nor have I read any feedback related to their use so I can't say if they are safe.
I do know morse tapers are used in machine tooling and resistance welding tips and when they are properly machined they stick together very well.
 
I do not want to spend any more money than I have to. That kit looks very interesting, I will have to check it out. I work for O'Reilly's ,so, I was thinking that if I stayed with stock stuff, I could get the calipers,rotors,bearings,ect at work. But, if I have to replace the spindles and the upper control arms, I might be better off with a kit.:-D
 
I do not want to spend any more money than I have to. That kit looks very interesting, I will have to check it out. I work for O'Reilly's ,so, I was thinking that if I stayed with stock stuff, I could get the calipers,rotors,bearings,ect at work. But, if I have to replace the spindles and the upper control arms, I might be better off with a kit.:-D

I hear ya... you should get a discount on the parts then. I forgot to mention that I had to change the rubber brake hose in which I got those at the local parts house but that wasn't no biggie.
 
mullinax95,
i went to that website, did they have the kit in the small bolt patter or do they only have it in 5x4.5?
 
I do not want to spend any more money than I have to. That kit looks very interesting, I will have to check it out. I work for O'Reilly's ,so, I was thinking that if I stayed with stock stuff, I could get the calipers,rotors,bearings,ect at work. But, if I have to replace the spindles and the upper control arms, I might be better off with a kit.:-D

I don't see you needing a kit per se. The only used parts your need are the spindles, caliper adapters, and upper control arm. Everything else you can order.

Here's the parts lists and how to ID large rotor caliper adapters: http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html

One thing nice about that stock Mopar setup is that if you want to upgrade to 11.75 disk rotors all you need is a $60-80 11.75 used caliper adapter (or find one in the junk yard). You'll have to run 15" rims with that rotor size.

I just checked www.rockauto.com and got some prices on the new stuff...

11.75" Rotors: $60 each new
inner,outer bearings & seal: $18/side new
Spindles with sheilds and 10.75 caliper adapters: $150-$200 pr for 73-76 A-body and $100-$150 for FMJ-body used
Calipers: $45-$60 each with pads $60 w/semi metalic pad new rebuilt
11.75 caliper adapters: $60-$100 used
caliper hoses: $60-100 pr braided new, $25 pr rubber new
disk master: $65 new rebuilt
adjustable proportioning valve: $45 (Mancini) new

I come up with $661 for all that. Minus $50+ if you use FMJ spindles. Minus $100 if you use $10.75 disks

For an A-body you will need some used upper control arms and new lower ball joints.

Here's a stock kit for 10.75 rotors without upper control arms: http://shop.primoclassics.com/category.sc?categoryId=2 Wonder if you could have the substitute 11.75 rotors. They aren't very much more money. Then you'd just have to find some used 11.75 caliper adapters.
 
mullinax95,
i went to that website, did they have the kit in the small bolt patter or do they only have it in 5x4.5?

I don't believe they do but to make sure you could give them a call. The demand for 4" bolt pattern is not as great as with the 4.5" BP. The previous owner of my car had drilled front and back to make the car 4.5 bolt pattern then they welded the studs in so I didn't like that.
 
I have SSBC disc brake kit on my 67 Dart convertible, Was very easy and complete kit. I did have spindles off a 71 340 Demon that were 10" drum.

Not sure cost, I bought new in box from buddy who sold his car before installing
 
If your goal is simply better straighter stopping disc brakes si the way.
If you want to keep the small bolt pattern and suspension parts you have, Scarebird Mechanical will be the simplest, least expensive route.
Everyone here who has installed there conversion kit gave positive feedback. If not for my wanting large bolt pattern 15 inch wheels I would have already used this conversion myself.
 
I don't see you needing a kit per se. The only used parts your need are the spindles, caliper adapters, and upper control arm. Everything else you can order.

Here's the parts lists and how to ID large rotor caliper adapters: http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html

One thing nice about that stock Mopar setup is that if you want to upgrade to 11.75 disk rotors all you need is a $60-80 11.75 used caliper adapter (or find one in the junk yard). You'll have to run 15" rims with that rotor size.

I just checked www.rockauto.com and got some prices on the new stuff...

11.75" Rotors: $60 each new
inner,outer bearings & seal: $18/side new
Spindles with sheilds and 10.75 caliper adapters: $150-$200 pr for 73-76 A-body and $100-$150 for FMJ-body used
Calipers: $45-$60 each with pads $60 w/semi metalic pad new rebuilt
11.75 caliper adapters: $60-$100 used
caliper hoses: $60-100 pr braided new, $25 pr rubber new
disk master: $65 new rebuilt
adjustable proportioning valve: $45 (Mancini) new

I come up with $661 for all that. Minus $50+ if you use FMJ spindles. Minus $100 if you use $10.75 disks

For an A-body you will need some used upper control arms and new lower ball joints.

Here's a stock kit for 10.75 rotors without upper control arms: http://shop.primoclassics.com/category.sc?categoryId=2 Wonder if you could have the substitute 11.75 rotors. They aren't very much more money. Then you'd just have to find some used 11.75 caliper adapters.

You could do it that way if your really wanted with stock Mopar parts to keep it all Mopar, but I didn't want to fool with taking things apart and still have the old Mopar brake system. After install have to pay to have the aligned again... sure you could make marks and notes and put exactly back the way it was however but for me I would have it aligned just to make sure. What's a good aliginment job now days? $40??

I didn't have to change out the proportioning valve but that is always a option. I have never panic stopped the vehicle but have "laid down" on it pretty hard and all seems normal to me.


Take note that even with 11" rotors the web site says "These calipers offer 15-25% more braking then the later Chrysler factor 'B' body brake systems without changing spindles!"

In comparison my cuda stops just as well as my 03 Dodge Ram. The weight of the vehicles is different but the charastics and feel are the same.

Not trying to dis your post or anything just stating the facts.
 
I went with the scarebird kit. Bought all of the parts from O'Reilly's except for the new studs and the scarebird brackets. I have less than $300 in the front disc setup. And I got to keep the sbp.
 
Thanks for all the info. There is a lot more choices out there than I thought. I am still undecided if I am going to keep the sbp, which I have now, or, convert to the large bolt pattern.:D
 
Im anouther happy scarbird clasic brakes adapters customer <300$ total and they work grate

did you mount the calipers towards the front of the axle or the rear? I mounted mine to the front of the axle per the instructions, but I think I'm going to try to mount them on the rear.
 
Thanks for all the info. There is a lot more choices out there than I thought. I am still undecided if I am going to keep the sbp, which I have now, or, convert to the large bolt pattern.:D

Go large bolt and get it over with!!!

I don't know your intended use of your car but if you already have the 8 3/4 rear end then you're well on your way far as strength wise. Switch out the axles (Yukon, Strange) and then do the front brakes... poof ... done. lol
 
I mounted the scarebirds on the rear.i am doing the bbp swap on my 69' you still have the rear brakes to deal with after you buy the axels either drill your small drums or find b body stuff. i went b body brakes and when it was all over spent a lot of money to do it but thats what i wanted.
 
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