Disc brake swap Rotors

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prrc

prrc

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Anyone have a good source for drilled and slotted 11.75 rotors? Pic's would be great.
 
Summit sells them now!

Summit now has cross drilled and slotted rotors in the 11 3/4 size part# SUM BR 63009R/L. $65 ea. Or search rotors for 1976 Coronet.

I discovered this the week AFTER I bought new plain 11 3/4" rotors for my duster. :banghead:

744e39b8.jpg
 
72bluNblu said:
Summit sells them now!

Summit now has cross drilled and slotted rotors in the 11 3/4 size part# SUM BR 63009R/L. $65 ea. Or search rotors for 1976 Coronet.

I discovered this the week AFTER I bought new plain 11 3/4" rotors for my duster. :banghead:

744e39b8.jpg
Click to expand...

and this will bolt in place of a standard 73-up A-body 11'' rotor?, using the same bearings and everything? (and of course using the 11 3/4 caliper brackets)
 
mopardude318 said:
and this will bolt in place of a standard 73-up A-body 11'' rotor?, using the same bearings and everything? (and of course using the 11 3/4 caliper brackets)
Click to expand...

Yup. The Summit part # is actually the same as the Centric part #, they're just drilled and slotted 11 3/4" rotors. That's not my picture, I borrowed it from a member on Cuda-Challenger since I was unlucky enough to have installed my plain 11 3/4" rotors already when Summit came out with the drilled/slotted ones. :violent1:

But, they're a direct swap onto any '73 up A or FMJ spindle. Same bearings, just need the caliper brackets.


68 Fish Fan said:
If you want to use stock 11.75" rotors and `73 and up A-body knuckles, check out Mopar Action's article

http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

This tells you everything you need to know. Also, AR Engineering makes a kit to mount Wilwood calipers on those knuckles. Hot setup.

http://arengineering.com/products/wi...-11-75-rotors/
Click to expand...

That Mopar Action article is COMPLETELY WRONG about the FMJ spindles. They do alter geometry slightly, but most folks will never even notice the difference. And if you are driving hard enough to notice the difference, then you'll notice the improved camber gain a lot more than any of the toe gain. It is useful as far as a parts list goes, if you ignore the comments about the FMJ spindles.

But you don't have to believe me. Mopar Muscle actually studied the geometry changes and published everything in this article. Bottom line is, you can use FMJ spindles without issue.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/suspension/mopp_0503_swapping_a_and_b_disc_brake_spindles/index.html
 
72bluNblu said:
That Mopar Action article is COMPLETELY WRONG about the FMJ spindles. They do alter geometry slightly, but most folks will never even notice the difference. And if you are driving hard enough to notice the difference, then you'll notice the improved camber gain a lot more than any of the toe gain. It is useful as far as a parts list goes, if you ignore the comments about the FMJ spindles.

But you don't have to believe me. Mopar Muscle actually studied the geometry changes and published everything in this article. Bottom line is, you can use FMJ spindles without issue.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/suspension/mopp_0503_swapping_a_and_b_disc_brake_spindles/index.html
Click to expand...

Yes, I think I remember the Mopar Muscle article. I agree with you. I reference the Mopar Action article because it give a complete parts list and some useful technical information. There's been some feuding between Ebooger and Mopar Muscle on that particular issue, but I've heard from more than one source that the FMJ spindles will work just fine.
 
Yeah if you look at the charts at the end of the Mopar muscle article they actually publish all the geometry numbers. I've also seen them worked up on a suspension program, the changes are basically negligible for everyone but serious racers.

I just put a set on my Duster, no issues so far. Doesn't bind, turns fine. Haven't had it professionally aligned yet, just my generic set up after install. But it drives straight down the road without any input at all. If anything I may need to pull some negative camber out, it's settling down a bit with the new torsion bars and the negative camber is actually visible, probably over -.75 now.

Oh, mopardude, don't forget you also need 15" rims to run 11 3/4" rotors. :D 14's won't clear the calipers.
 
72bluNblu said:
Oh, mopardude, don't forget you also need 15" rims to run 11 3/4" rotors. :D 14's won't clear the calipers.
Click to expand...

oh trust me i know!! i am already equipped with the 17x8 mustang rims!! time to move past the standard equipment 11'' rotors...i can out run em pretty easily under serious braking..
 
Thanks, Bigger wheels are not an issue, I'm running 18s on all 4 corners.I all ready have The AR engineering bracks and the wilwood calipers.
 
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