Disc conversion on 67 Dart

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Eric Osborn

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I've been looking at disc brake conversion packages for days it seems. I've found several good deals on B and E body car packages that come with new spindles.

The question I have is, can I just use those spindles or do I have to also use upper control arms from a B body as well to jive.

I'm trying to do this semi affordably. I am open to other options.
 
Did this conversion on my '70 duster(assuming '67 dart to be similar) it had front manual drums,i switched over to Wilwood discs used original spindles and upper control arms(no need to change anything)can be 4" or 4 1/2" bolt pattern..cost $700.00 complete excellent setup very satisfied:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I got done with my front disk conversion about 3 weeks ago. New calipers w/ pads, rotors, bearings and seal, spindles, lines, lower ball joint, etc. Had a tapered sleeve that went onto the upper ball joint shank. Pretty slick set up. It was $520 to my door. Couldn't be happier. I have about 500 miles on so far and its awesome.
 
stroked340 said:
Did this conversion on my '70 duster(assuming '67 dart to be similar) it had front manual drums,i switched over to Wilwood discs used original spindles and upper control arms(no need to change anything)can be 4" or 4 1/2" bolt pattern.
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Their website mentions that there may be clearance issues with some wheels. Will 14" stock rallye wheels work with these kits?
 
disc brakes are an important upgrade in any build and should be a priority.
 
Did my 67 Dart about 3 years ago after rebuilding drums all round and still couldn't lock the wheels up.

After front disks no problem and I have 100% confidence it will stop quick and straight every time. Best upgrade of the car so far. Highly recommended.
 
Oaktree said:
Their website mentions that there may be clearance issues with some wheels. Will 14" stock rallye wheels work with these kits?
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Our kits do. We just did a SBP disk/drum swap on our 64 dart magnum. I dont plan on running them on the car but they are rolling on them for now. The cheapo 14" Centerline copies didnt work, Modern brand. The disks went on in under an hour, super easy and all brand new. Under $500 on your doorstep! Will never put used stuff on a car again.
 
I went with ar engineering viper disc brake conversion on my 67 dart. I had to get the big ball joint upper control arms and I believe I needed spindles from a disc car.
They stop on a dime but I also have Mustang disck brakes on the rear
All this wrapped with a manual brake master cylinder 15/16 diameter bore
 
bought the wilwood kit and done with it. all bolt on and done in about 2 hours doing the safety wires on all the fasnters and taking my time enjoying beer and beats.

20130517_175726_zps488a5bbe.jpg
 
Check out Scarebird.com I did mine about 5 years ago only cost me about $250 and they still work great today.
 
Scarebird is far cheaper, plus cheap & easy parts in the future (GM & Toyota). Wilwood is slicker, plus fixed 4-piston calipers, but you are locked to them for replacement rotors, etc. Most resto-mods go Wilwood or even costlier (SSBC, etc). The 1973+ swap requires also changing the rear-end to BBP, or forget about a spare (many new cars do). Post 10 sounds strange since drum brakes, in general, take less pedal effort to skid the tires. The main drawback of drums is they overheat faster (fade) if you constantly brake or are stupid enough to ride the brakes going down the mountain (aka FL drivers on Blue Ridge Pkwy). Drums brakes can also be more uneven, but usually due more to poor maintenance or incorrect assembly.
 
BillGrissom said:
Scarebird is far cheaper, plus cheap & easy parts in the future (GM & Toyota). Wilwood is slicker, plus fixed 4-piston calipers, but you are locked to them for replacement rotors, etc. Most resto-mods go Wilwood or even costlier (SSBC, etc). The 1973+ swap requires also changing the rear-end to BBP, or forget about a spare (many new cars do). Post 10 sounds strange since drum brakes, in general, take less pedal effort to skid the tires. The main drawback of drums is they overheat faster (fade) if you constantly brake or are stupid enough to ride the brakes going down the mountain (aka FL drivers on Blue Ridge Pkwy). Drums brakes can also be more uneven, but usually due more to poor maintenance or incorrect assembly.
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Ya Scarebird is cheaper because its nowhere near the quality of the Wilwood set up..not even close.............
 
I have no personal experience, but;
In 2016, there was a rash of fellows here on FABO,having trouble with the scare bird stuff; mostly underpowered as I recall, or requiring very heavy pedal pressure.
 
AJ/FormS said:
trouble with the scare bird stuff ... or requiring very heavy pedal pressure.
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All about the MC and/or booster. A smaller bore MC gives less pedal effort, for more pedal travel. Many say manual brakes work fine w/ disks in an A-body, but is certainly subjective. Even small new cars today come w/ a booster.
 
Yeah well those guys were swapping M/Cs too, and it ended up IIRC the the calipers were just too small, and they weren't getting the clamp they needed. That's what I remember. But I'm 63 so I don't always remember new stuff the way I still remember the old stuff!lol
 
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