Distributor advance springs

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depends on what it sounds like.
knock from too much advance sounds like gurgling or pinging

Stick or auto?
auto could be flex plate.

rod knock sounds like a water pump impeller hititng housing but worse
 
Mattax said:
depends on what it sounds like.
knock from too much advance sounds like gurgling or pinging

Stick or auto?
auto could be flex plate.

rod knock sounds like a water pump impeller hititng housing but worse
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It’s an auto. Here’s a video I took
It’s not the flex plate. Definitely coming from inside the motor

 
Rod knock usually changes with engine temp. Cold engine, thick oil, you may not hear it. Hot oil, you hear it & if it was knocking when cold, likely to be louder knock when hot.
 
SpriceyStuff said:
It’s an auto. Here’s a video I took
It’s not the flex plate. Definitely coming from inside the motor

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Just an FYI, except for very early Slantys, all automotive units were red, trucks yellow, to '69-which were turquoise. '70 & up were corporate blue in autos & trucks, not sure when but I think some '80's were black- late model. NONE were orange, so........
1) the advance plate slots are what determines the total mechanical advance. Mattax said it, if You set initial timing the same on a dizzy that puts in 10deg more advance, detonation city.
2) unfortunately You have found out the ugly truth about the upside-down type of fuel pump the Slanty uses, it dumps a ton in the crankcase w/o leaking externally until it's too late. Unfortunately, I fell victim to this once Myself, they aren't very tolerant once it occurs. Betting You wiped 1 or more rod bearings. At least it didn't throw a rod, You'll be fine, but a bummer for sure.
 
Killer6 said:
Just an FYI, except for very early Slantys, all automotive units were red, trucks yellow, to '69-which were turquoise. '70 & up were corporate blue in autos & trucks, not sure when but I think some '80's were black- late model. NONE were orange, so........
1) the advance plate slots are what determines the total mechanical advance. Mattax said it, if You set initial timing the same on a dizzy that puts in 10deg more advance, detonation city.
2) unfortunately You have found out the ugly truth about the upside-down type of fuel pump the Slanty uses, it dumps a ton in the crankcase w/o leaking externally until it's too late. Unfortunately, I fell victim to this once Myself, they aren't very tolerant once it occurs. Betting You wiped 1 or more rod bearings. At least it didn't throw a rod, You'll be fine, but a bummer for sure.
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Yeah. I got my new bearings. But I’m gonna try and accumulate the other parts I want over the winter and tear it down next spring. On the bearings tho, I’ve noticed the main bearings I bought say they’re for a 76-83 slant or whatever but they’re the same width as the bearings for my earlier slant. I was under the impression that all the bearings were narrower on the cast cranks. Is that true or are just the rod bearings narrower? Did I buy the wrong mains?
 
SpriceyStuff said:
Yeah. I got my new bearings. But I’m gonna try and accumulate the other parts I want over the winter and tear it down next spring. On the bearings tho, I’ve noticed the main bearings I bought say they’re for a 76-83 slant or whatever but they’re the same width as the bearings for my earlier slant. I was under the impression that all the bearings were narrower on the cast cranks. Is that true or are just the rod bearings narrower? Did I buy the wrong mains?
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The mains & rods are both different, correct. No way those are correct unless they are boxed wrong, or Your old engine is also a cast crank, one or Dee udder.
 
Killer6 said:
The mains & rods are both different, correct. No way those are correct unless they are boxed wrong, or Your old engine is also a cast crank, one or Dee udder.
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The old one was for sure a forged crank. Are the thrust bearings also narrower? I only actually checked the thrust bearings but when I get home I’ll check the regular ones.
 
Yes the thrust brg is narrower, cast crank engine is easy to tell if the stampings are there on the deck by the alternator, there will be an "E" right after the "225".
 
Killer6 said:
Yes the thrust brg is narrower, cast crank engine is easy to tell if the stampings are there on the deck by the alternator, there will be an "E" right after the "225".
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I’ve heard that, but there also seems to be some disagreement on the truth behind that statement. Mines a 225R but another guy said his 225R has a cast crank. It’s a 77, and I was told all production of forged cranks for the slant was discontinued in the 76 model year?

for clarity’s sake, my whole casting number is 7225R - 1 212E
 
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My understanding is "225R" is simply 225 regular fuel, & yes, the forged crank was phased out during the '76 model year mid-production. I also stand corrected, '67 and up South African market 2bbl Slantys WERE painted orange, if You somehow managed to obtain one. It's possible the "E" was dropped once the switch to cast cranks was well over with, but that's a wild guess, and reading what a "Wild West" the stampings became late '70's and up anything could be possible.
To be sure tho', the rods, & mains are different.
To add, the '79 and up engines also use a different Cam bearing set, due to feeding the Hydraulic tappets.
 
Killer6 said:
My understanding is "225R" is simply 225 regular fuel, & yes, the forged crank was phased out during the '76 model year mid-production. I also stand corrected, '67 and up South African market 2bbl Slantys WERE painted orange, if You somehow managed to obtain one. It's possible the "E" was dropped once the switch to cast cranks was well over with, but that's a wild guess, and reading what a "Wild West" the stampings became late '70's and up anything could be possible.
To be sure tho', the rods, & mains are different.
To add, the '79 and up engines also use a different Cam bearing set, due to feeding the Hydraulic tappets.
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Well thank god mines a 77 cause I don’t want to deal with hydraulic lifters and I really don’t want to buy more cam bearings. I already bought a set for my other engine that should fit this one.
 
Killer6 said:
My understanding is "225R" is simply 225 regular fuel, & yes, the forged crank was phased out during the '76 model year mid-production. I also stand corrected, '67 and up South African market 2bbl Slantys WERE painted orange, if You somehow managed to obtain one. It's possible the "E" was dropped once the switch to cast cranks was well over with, but that's a wild guess, and reading what a "Wild West" the stampings became late '70's and up anything could be possible.
To be sure tho', the rods, & mains are different.
To add, the '79 and up engines also use a different Cam bearing set, due to feeding the Hydraulic tappets.
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I’ve found this on eBay… it says it’s for 80-86 dodge trucks… and it IS noticeably narrower than the ones I have. Will these fit my 77 motor?

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BD6D0817-D280-4688-852F-DE997BF9E5A8.png
 
Yes, none of My catalogs show different part numbers for trucks vs. pass. cars.
 
Are You purchasing bearings for a known good crank, or??? If the crank You plan to use doesn't check out, You will be buying undersize ones if it gets re-ground, or a replacement that's been done the same.
 
Killer6 said:
Are You purchasing bearings for a known good crank, or??? If the crank You plan to use doesn't check out, You will be buying undersize ones if it gets re-ground, or a replacement that's been done the same.
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I believe it to be good. I haven’t driven the car since the knock started. I can’t simply pull the pan to check, and I can’t pull the engine at the moment (I live in an apartment complex, I’ll have to drag it to my brothers house), but that’s all gonna wait until next spring when I’ve had time to accumulate all the parts and will have more vacation time, which won’t be until early May. I don’t want to tear it all apart more than once. Tear it all down, redo all bearings and seals, build it, throw it back in. Standard size cast crank bearings are surprisingly hard to come buy, but under size are not. If I end up having to have the crank turned over a couple thou I’ll buy some new bearings. Not too big of a deal.
 
Killer6 said:
Are You purchasing bearings for a known good crank, or??? If the crank You plan to use doesn't check out, You will be buying undersize ones if it gets re-ground, or a replacement that's been done the same.
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Well, my dad told me he’s pretty sure the crank is gonna need turned down .010 or .020 but he knows a machinist here in town who will give me a good deal to have it turned. So I’ll prolly take the car to my brothers next weekend and pull the motor out and check the crank to determine what the best next step is
 
I see em (std size cast crank bearings) all over eBay. more plentiful even, than forged crank ones were when I was looking, and even still when I look there for other /6 related stuff. I don't really need anything right now for mine but am always looking for that deal that won't be there when I'm actually looking for it
 
volaredon said:
I see em (std size cast crank bearings) all over eBay. more plentiful even, than forged crank ones were when I was looking, and even still when I look there for other /6 related stuff. I don't really need anything right now for mine but am always looking for that deal that won't be there when I'm actually looking for it
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I got some stuff laying around. Lemme know anything specific you need and I’ll let you know. I have a forged crank slant laying around
 
The vacuum amp is probably for EGR. My Mazda works like this. Manifold vacuum goes into the top or bottom port while ported vacuum goes into the port off to the side and the load (egr valve) goes off the port opposite the manifold feed port. It's sort of a switch that allows a high draw valve (egr) to be operated by the relatively low ported vacuum. The ported vacuum is routed from the carb through a thermo valve (maybe on radiator?) to the vacuum amp so the engine has to be warm to trigger the EGR system. Seems to work fine on my truck after I chased all the leaking vacuum pods. (Egr, throttle solenoid,gulp (anti backfire) valve, evap shutter, distributor...) Every one of them was leaking!
 
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