Well then yes, I would limit the cam to 20* and reset the power-timing to in the range of; 34* at 3200 to 36* at 3600, and just drive it. This should make the Idle-timing to be 20 degrees less, which should be lots.
If you need more power below stall, the right thing to do is increase the cylinder pressure.
If you need more power at low speed then you need a higher stall.
If the power sucks all the time in first gear, you need a bigger number rear gear. Or a bigger engine.
If you just need a lil more power at Part Throttle and low speed, get more timing from the Vcan.
My stocker made 22*.
@TrailBeast got 24* out of his. Just map out at what throttle opening yours starts dropping off, and run in the zone, for max torque. I installed a vacuum gauge on the signal line, to tell me where I was on the throttle. Easy-Peasy.
BTW
I run that one-long loop 318 spring and it is what helps my combo run 87E10 at 11/1 Scr; by delaying my "all-in" to ~3400rpm.
The little one gets me 28*@2800 starting from 14* initial at about 900/1000rpm. Great curve for my combo. Yes it had more torque with more low-rpm timing, but if smokes the tires just the same with less timing,lol.
My V-can brings 22* to the table any time the throttle is reduced. By 1600 or so, at PT, the timing is getting to be over 40, and by 2000, it could be as high as 44. At 2800 with the Vcan it could be 50* and all-in, with the Vcan, it could be 56*, and to that I can add up to 6 more with the dial-back.
The dial back is also great for starting because with it, I can take 9* out during cranking so it cranks on 5*. Then as soon as it starts (cold) I can dial all 15 back in for 20* at idle, during the warm up, so no choke is needed. Then, after the warm up, I take the 6 out again, and leave it alone. All from the saddle.
