distributor gear replacing

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pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
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I got this blast from the past in the mail today
gears2.jpg
gears3.jpg

But the gear pin hole is too high, does it matter or is there a proper clearance for the end play of the shaft? There is like 3mm of difference in the spring-pin holes. Do I cross drill the gear to match the old hole level and retain the old endplay or does it matter? Im using it as a CPS for sequential EFI using only 1 reluctor vane, and I can put it anywhere in the cam rotation.
gears.jpg
 
"Made in one or more of the following countries: TAIWAN U.S.A"

LMFAO

ROFLOL.gif


On a serious note........service manual, "take a standby.........." LOL

...............Here ya go

gear.jpg
 
That's what I was looking for. Thanks. Ill install the gear with a .007 feeler gauge and drill a brand new hole.

PS> Hey, it was INSPECTED in USA...:eek:
 
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Dan, I should have read that before i did EXACTLY how you described it minus the soldering iron trick (that would have made the job much easier) over the last 40 minutes.. Good deal, set it up with a .008 feeler gauge and cross drilled a new hole. When the roll pin was pressed in, it took up a few thou (how?) so I had to take a tad off the bushing. Got it back to .008, close enough for me.
 
Does end-play matter?
yes!
Notice the gear is helically cut. As the engine is running the spinning cam will drive the gear up/down untill it runs out of end-play.But at lower rpms, the gear will be bouncing up and down in sync with a sloppy timing chain, or maybe just because it can. Well as the gear travels up and down, it rotates ever so slightly, and since the timing device sits at the top of the shaft that the gear is rotating, so also the ignition timing changes also ever so slightly. And the more endplay you have, the more the timing changes.
Thrust washers are available separately.
I set mine to .002 many many years ago.
You can sometimes measure your timing chain slop, by watching the timing change. Just rev it up to 2000 and then back off. Watch the timing change the instant the engine changes from accelerating with the chain stretched on one side, to to decelerating with the chain now stretched taut on the other side. Endplay on the drive gear will confound this test, adding it's own error to the results.
If the D is back in, I wouldn't bother to pull it out to reset that .008. Most engines will never know or care about 1 or so degrees of timing change. Plus if you make it too tight,lol, it's only nylon. Nylon melts.
 
yeah, this just tells the MS2.2 where the cam is for sequential. The timing is done by the 36-1 wheel. Its all tight now. Where are the thrust washers available, link? There is an upper and lower thrust washer that can move the pinned gear up and down in relation to the cam gear.
 
The last time I bought washers I got them from a Ford dealer. The previous time from a Chebby dealer.
I think I saw a Mr.Gasket bubble-pac in a speedshop a few years back.
If your MS is only using the D for a cam-sensor, then I can't see extreme accuracy as being a big deal. Typically the ECU only reads the cam sensor during cranking, and often just once.
 
I did this on my slant though I got my 2 gears from NAPA. I tried my best to get the end play correct per the FSM but ended up with a slightly larger gap.
Being a fastidious Mopar guy, i bought stainless shims from McMaster Carr and got it perfect. I think i chose .002 thick.
 
FWIW, I just ran some rough numbers on the amount of timing variation in this gear. Just due to the gear slope, it would take around .006" of vertical movement to change the crank timing by 1 degree. So the endplay spec makes it around 1+ degrees of timing slop... if I ran my calcs right. Definitely not bad timing accuracy standards. But I also suspect that when running, the shaft is pushed up or down steadily, so that variation goes down. (And BTW, I edited my numbers and comments..... I initially used cosine instead of sine...ooops...)

How much that is relative to the timing slop of the gear mesh, I do not know.
 
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That .006 is the prescribed endplay of the shaft. Now the slop in the chain is something else unless you run some sort of gear or tensioner on the slack side. I tried integrating a spare ratched style tensioner from my Mazda but it was too wide to mount and there was little actual room to mount it. I run a crank trigger now for ignition.
 
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