distributor installing into fresh 318

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22dog22

22dog22

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hi just got my 318 back from the shop with a total rebuild since I did not have the distributor the guy could not install it for me, so he did not install the drive gear, told me he has the #1 cylinder at top dead center for me (compression), told me to just have the rotor set at # 1 on the the distributor cap and put the gear onto the bottom of the distributor and drop the whole assemble into the block, this may sound dumb but how do you know where the # 1 is on the cap of the distributor?? do you just pick a spot and put the plug wires in the correct firing order?? and which side for the engine should the vaccum advance face passenger/driver side ?? thanks. for any information.
 
At top dead center, the slot in the intermediate shaft needs to point toward the driver's side intake manifold bolt. That should make the distributor installation obvious.
 
picture......
 

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Point the slot to #2 cylinder when you start, then when the gears engage it will be pointing to the #1 cylinder when seated.
 
these pictures are assuming that the rotor points the same direction as the slot on the end of the distributor
 
THINGS

1.......As pointed out earlier, not all distributor rotors point the same direction. This means you "pick a different hole" for number one, or you rattle the intermediate shaft around in there until you get the distributor to "point like you want." Personally, I just use a different hole

2......You must get the distributor in for no1 ready to fire and not the so called 180 off. There are TWO ways to do that

A.........Pull the no1 plug, rotate the engine until you start to feel compression, then watch the marks "coming up." Do NOT set them on TDC. Rather, set the marks (depending on your cam) about 10-12 BTC for a "stocker" or 12-15 or as much as 20 BTC for a "wilder" cam

Set the dist in, and rotate the dist. body to get the vacuum can "in a good spot." The rotor (small block) turns CW, and you want it "just at the corner" approaching whatever tower you are going to make no1

Rotate the dist CW, "retard." Slowly rotate the body advanced (CCW) until

a........If you have breaker points, the points just open

b.......If you have breakerless, until the reluctor tip is centered in the pickup coil

If you do this right, it will fire and start with no more fuss. You can also check initial timing "on the starter" using a light

B.......The other method of determining no1 on compression is if you have one or both valve covers off. Rotate the engine to TDC, and look at no1 and no6 valves. One pair will be "about equally" open, the other pair will be CLOSED. The closed pair is "ready to fire." You can either put the dist in for that cylinder, or if no6 is ready, rotate the crank one turn, and follow a, b, above.
 
turn the dampener back slightly to 15 BTDC. As 273 dart said above you can start #1 from anywhere but for standardization I like to stay with the OE diagram. Stand in front of the car with the dist in your hand with the rotor on and point the rotor forward (toward your face)and "slightly" to the pass side & note the clocking of the dist bottom tang at that point and you want to clock the inter gear/shaft to match that so you can drop it right in. This maintains the OE wiring diagram and lets the wires nestle as neatly as possible with the shortest length possible. Install the dist & turn the housing slightly till the magnet is dead even with the tooth. If you have to turn the housing more than "slightly" you might want to move the intergear over a tooth. Mockup & go from there. Bottom line you want the #1 cap terminal/wire a bit to the pass side (forward of course). Start #1 in the cap terminal where the rotor is pointing to (forward & slightly to the pass side) then route the wires on around clockwise from there (1)-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Make a mark on the dampener 2&7/32" clockwise from the TDC slit & have your helper turn it to that at ~2500 RPM when it fires. Stat out. Read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com Reluctor gap at .008 with brass gauge. NAPA Echlin rotor with a .060" longer blade # MO3000 is a nice addition & helps with rotor phasing issues. $8 & change out the door. EDIT vac can on pass side & position it where it has a reasonable amt of room to be turned & turn it slightly till the magnet is lined up and the #1 cap terminal/wire is forward and slightly (~15-20 deg) to the pass side
 
Rapid Robert said:
turn the dampener back slightly to 15 BTDC. As 273 dart said above you can start #1 from anywhere but for standardization I like to stay with the OE diagram. Stand in front of the car with the dist in your hand with the rotor on and point the rotor forward (toward your face)and "slightly" to the pass side & note the clocking of the dist bottom tang at that point and you want to clock the inter gear/shaft to match that so you can drop it right in. This maintains the OE wiring diagram and lets the wires nestle as neatly as possible with the shortest length possible. Install the dist & turn the housing slightly till the magnet is dead even with the tooth. If you have to turn the housing more than "slightly" you might want to move the intergear over a tooth. Mockup & go from there. Bottom line you want the #1 cap terminal/wire a bit to the pass side (forward of course). Start #1 in the cap terminal where the rotor is pointing to (forward & slightly to the pass side) then route the wires on around clockwise from there (1)-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Make a mark on the dampener 2&7/32" clockwise from the TDC slit & have your helper turn it to that at ~2500 RPM when it fires. Stat out. Read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com Reluctor gap at .008 with brass gauge. NAPA Echlin rotor with a .060" longer blade # MO3000 is a nice addition & helps with rotor phasing issues. $8 & change out the door. EDIT vac can on pass side & position it where it has a reasonable amt of room to be turned & turn it slightly till the magnet is lined up and the #1 cap terminal/wire is forward and slightly (~15-20 deg) to the pass side
Click to expand...


Could you explain about making mark 2&7/32" on dampener? Turn what to that and line up to what?

Thanks
 
Chrieeeest. Ignore that crap

Determine no1 "ready to fire" as I outlined

Set the timing marks to WHERE YOU WANT initial timing. About 10-12 for a stocker, 15 or so BTC for a mild cam and 15-20 BTC for a fairly wild cam. Use your head

Set the dist in with rotor just appproaching the corner of "what" tower you are going to use

Set the dist body so you "have room" to time it, and confirm the tower you are pointing to with the rotor

Then just adjust the dist. so that the reluctor is pointed to the center of the pickup coil

You don't need to make a bullshit mark on the dampener.

Get out your light. When you first crank it, you can quickly check timing on the light if you must.
 
eestatic said:
Could you explain about making mark 2&7/32" on dampener? Turn what to that and line up to what?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Make a white paint mark or sharpie mark on the dampener 2&7/32" clockwise from the OE slit which is 35 degrees. When it fires have him turn the dist till this new dampener mark is at the "zero" on the tcover tab at ~2500 RPM. this means you are at 35 total during the breakin process (I forgot to add I would cap the vac can for the breakin). Dont ignore this (my) crap cuz it ain't crap! "67dart273" you sound much better than you did the other day when you gave me such a hearty welcome! I do agree with you that you want no bullshit on the dampener. RR
 
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