Distributor seems loose..

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2444 648 is '67 225/automatic, without Clean Air Package. If that's not a description of your car, then you probably have a "remanufactured" distributor. Mismatch of year/engine/transmission/emissions package will mean advance curves different than originally intended, but that is generally less of an issue than the violence committed against poor, defenceless distributors (carburetors, starters, alternators, brake cylinders…) in the "remanufacturing" process.

All that said, there is (still) only one shank size for Slant-6 distributors, so yes, a distributor housing stamped 2444 468 has the correct shank size.
 
I am coming up with a 65 225 1BBL, double check the 88 4 Prob a 33 4 which definitely makes it a 65. Either way like Dan said it is wrong, probably changed at some point. Regardless did you pull ii yet and look for the things mentioned above?
 
halifaxhops said:
I am coming up with a 65 225 1BBL, double check the 88 4 Prob a 33 4 which definitely makes it a 65. Either way like Dan said it is wrong, probably changed at some point. Regardless did you pull ii yet and look for the things mentioned above?
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@halifaxhops yes pulled it out. It’s not bent, cracked.. the hold down tab is flat. No crusty o rings in the hole. I’m stumped.
 
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Weird for sure. 38/4 is the date your fine with that one just about the same curve. I see nothing that would cause that. Hey is the rotor seating all the way? Have seen some where they just don't push down flat and make the cap kind of wobbly?
 
Hey get a pic from the top down. That rotor looks like it has a petronix reluctor on it.
 
halifaxhops said:
Hey get a pic from the top down. That rotor looks like it has a petronix reluctor on it.
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@halifaxhops it does have petronix on it . It has a tan cap on it. Now that you mention it the rotor and pick up seem close I’ll get a picture today almost like it’s scuffing the pickup points. The whole body of the distributor is wobbly seems like the hold down strap is too wimpy
 
Forget what the gap is on them. I have paperwork in the shop just got one in for a points 8. Make sure the rotor sits in it properly and pushes onto the cam plate all the way. Since it is out do nothing but put the cap on and spin it should be very little resistance.
 
halifaxhops said:
Find anything?
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@halifaxhops negative.. I’m stumped, father stumped, uncle stumped.. lol Im thinking on getting new one for this engine. Also thinking the vacuum advance is a bit stuck it hardly moves when testing.. funny thing is though when I Put the distributor back in the hole it’s like a hot dog down a hallway zero resistance like it’s the wrong size..
 
SlantedDart said:
@halifaxhops negative.. I’m stumped, father stumped, uncle stumped.. lol Im thinking on getting new one for this engine. Also thinking the vacuum advance is a bit stuck it hardly moves when testing.. funny thing is though when I Put the distributor back in the hole it’s like a hot dog down a hallway zero resistance like it’s the wrong size..
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Going from old memory, I don't remember seeing that thick o'ring under the dist. Pull out the dist using the bolt in the block. [This is the fine adjustment]. Remove the bolt and adj. plate from the dist. [This is the coarse adj.] Bend the plate flat. The small diameter o'ring seals the dist. shank from leaking oil. If your block doesn't have a big groove under the adj. plate for an o'ring, then skip the big o'ring.
 
The big and small O-rings are both supposed to be there, whether or not someone remembers them from old memory. Earlier in this thread there's a link to a post with the actual, real factory part numbers for the actual, real O-rings that were actually, really installed at the factory—and if that's not good enough, pull the distributor on any Slant-6 engine and you'll see the recess in the block specifically designed to accommodate the O-ring.

Seriously: c'mon. Random-aѕѕ guesses like "Make a spacer!" and "Take out the O-ring 'cuz I don't think I remember it from years ago!" aren't going to get the OP any closer to fixing the problem.
 
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I didn't know that all slant 6's had a groove/recess for the large o'ring. Thanks. The old iron that I had with points type distributors were coated with oil and grit down in the abyss. It's likely the o'ring stayed in the block and I never noticed it. But it makes sense that it would be there. It would keep grit and [salt] water out of the dist. shank area.

You misquoted or misread my last sentence. I really used the word ---IF--- and I used real letters. Really, I did.
 
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