Distributor Swap Question

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ro23dart

ro23dart

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I've got a kind of dumb question that i think i already know the answer to so here it goes. I just picked up a distributor from TrailBeast and was planning on swapping it tonight. My old one is electronic as is the new one. I plan on popping the cap with the wires still attached and pulling the old unit and dropping in the new. I shouldnt be able to put it in 180 out because its electronic, right? I know im going to have to reset my timing but as long as i get the new one in roughly the same position everything should be darn close. I just wanted to make sure before i got into it.
 
ro23dart said:
I shouldnt be able to put it in 180 out because its electronic, right?
Click to expand...

Incorrect, you can.

When you pull the cap make note of which way the rotor is pointing. Drop the new one in with the rotor pointing in the same direction, and you should be GTG.
 
Awesome, thanks! I was planning on making everything match up as best i can, now i know i need to be extra careful.
 
A good method is to set the engine to TDC, then observe where the rotor points. If it is at #1, then good, if not rotation crank one more turn. Next step is rotate a bit more to base timing you want to set, observe where tooth on reluctor in relation to pick-up sensor nub. That point should be, as reluctor tooth is slightly past perfect alignment with sensor nub. When you place new distributor in, set it the same. If both are carefully set, by approaching rotation, backlash errors are minimal. With experience static timing can be done to better than 2 degrees.
 
ro23dart said:
I've got a kind of dumb question that i think i already know the answer to so here it goes. I just picked up a distributor from TrailBeast and was planning on swapping it tonight. My old one is electronic as is the new one. I plan on popping the cap with the wires still attached and pulling the old unit and dropping in the new. I shouldnt be able to put it in 180 out because its electronic, right? I know im going to have to reset my timing but as long as i get the new one in roughly the same position everything should be darn close. I just wanted to make sure before i got into it.
Click to expand...
the bottom of the distributor shaft is like a flat screwdriver as long as you don't pull out the drive gear and you put the rotor back in the same direction you will be good but you can put it 180 out if you don't pay attn. to what way the rotor is pointing just don't pull the drive gear because then you can get it messed up
 
Caution, Some distributor shaft keys are oriented different. Aftermarkets are good examples.
 
hand bump crank with a 1&1/4''' socket/breaker bar till the nearest tooth is lined up with the magnet. Note where the rotor is pointing and what plug wire cap terminal it is under. pull dist & install new one with rotor pointing in the same clocking. turn housing so magnet is lined up with the tooth that places the same plug wire cap terminal over the rotor like it was originally. If lower tang to rotor clocking (phasing) is the same then you are set. If not holler.
 
Hmmm, this is great to know as I'll also be installing very soon a Trailbeast distributor I bought from him a few months ago.
 
H22A4 said:
Hmmm, this is great to know as I'll also be installing very soon a Trailbeast distributor I bought from him a few months ago.
Click to expand...
with the tooth lined up you want the rotor "plumb" vertical in line with the dist cap "bulge" & closer to the "trailing edge" so to speak of the cap terminal inside the bulge is even better cuz the vac can will shift Rotor Phasing CCW on a SB. the cap terminal width is ~.214" and the rotor terminal width is ~.244" so you have some leeway there as the bottom line is that that distance cannot be greater than what the spark can jump & if so it will misfire plus there is the radial gap between the rotor tip and the cap terminal & if the total of these combined distances bumps the required voltage to jump that gap more than the available voltage your system has then it will misfire, sporadically tho as the can is constantly changing the circumferential "circular" part of the gap. For the radial gap NAPA has a rotor with a .060" longer blade (MO3000) for $8.xx out the door & you can drill out the rivet on yours & make your own longer blade. ideal radial clearance is .015". keep the rotor/cap terminals clean with a dremel as sharp surfaces need less voltage to jump across em.
 
Daves69 said:
Caution, Some distributor shaft keys are oriented different. Aftermarkets are good examples.
Click to expand...


^^Pay attention to this^^ What he means is that the rotor in relation to the drive tang is different on some distributors. There are a couple of ways to deal with this

WHAT I'D DO:

1.."Wrench" or bump the engine up to the TDC mark on the damper. Pull the cap and see where the rotor is pointing. It should be either no6 or no1 plug tower. MAKE NOTE of this. Make note "for rough timing" the position of the vacuum advance

2..Pull out distributor and examine the old beside the new You should be able to tell if the drive tang is at least "close". Orient the rotor so it goes in and points the same way, and likewise the vacuum can, and install the new unit

3...Now note if the rotor is till pointed to the same plug tower as the old one, snug down the bolt slightly so you can time it.

4..If the rotor is NOT at no1 above, just move the plug wires one or two towers whatever it takes to get no1 back "to" the rotor position

5...........And reset your timing.
 
ro23dart said:
... I shouldnt be able to put it in 180 out because its electronic, right? ...
Click to expand...
You could install it ~20 deg off if a slant six engine, since there are numerous teeth on the drive wheel. Please, always state what engine you have when asking an engine question. Everyone is ASSuming you have a SB or BB engine.
 
Oh, you guys.:D

Just pop the cap off and note where the rotor is pointing.
Note where your vac can nipple is pointing.
Pull the distributor and drop the new one in with both pointing where they were before and you are ready to fire it off and check timing.

Done.

OR, we could talk to it and make sure it feels good today, take it's temperature, see if it's hungry, dress it in doll clothes and then ask if it would like to be installed and wait for an answer. :D

I know, I'm a smartass.
 
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Alright, so i installed the distributor. Everything went in no problem. Dialed my initial timing to 14 degrees and reset the carb. I did notice that after sitting and idling for a few minutes that it seems like my engine warmed up quicker. It didn't overheat, but my temp gauge hit the point it does after driving it for 15 minutes or so. Also i now have an oil leak that looks like its coming from the rear of the engine. Didn't see any oil around the distributor but i need to crawl around and see if i can pinpoint it. I had driven it faster and farther the day before the swap then i had since i bought it so i am thinking i might have knocked all the good parts off of it on the trip.
 
The OEM O-rings of the old days did a good job. I have heard but not experienced, that the newer aftermarket stuff does not always do the job.
I have experienced that the tin gaskets as found in the FelPro complete overhaul kits work very well. This gasket is not flat , but has a concentric rib on it. I try to use them whenever I can.
After you have proven where the oil is coming from, and if it is the dizzy, then you will have to check the fit of that O-ring.
More often, the oil-pressure sender leaks; either at the threads or right thru the bottom.
 
I think the leak might be coming from the passenger side valve cover at the rear. I had oil on the exhaust on that side too. Looks like it ran doewn the block and dripped off in the perfect spot to look like the rear main seal. I am hoping that is it, just need to keep and eye out and confirm. Thanks for all the info guys, i always learn some useful info here.
 
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