Distributor troubleshooting

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jglover_81

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I got one of the Pro comp hei distributors (I know some on here say they are junk) to replace the points dist in my 72 scamp. With a solid 12v power the dist does not fire. With the dist pulled out and it grounded I can turn it by hand and it fires. I have tried running a dedicated ground wire from the battery to the dist with no luck. :banghead: if anyone has any advise or suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.
 
the only thing that I can think of and I mean ONLY....would be that the engine block itself does not have a good ground. After all the spark is not going to jump the gap if there is no ground. Grounding the distributer is not good enough, the block must have a good ground.
 
That is something I thought about and ran a ground wire from the motor to the body and it made no difference
 
probably a stupid question... Is the engine turning the distributer ?
 
Yes it is. I'm convinced its something stupid that I'm doing wrong so that's not a stupid question
 
Yes it is. I'm convinced its something stupid that I'm doing wrong so that's not a stupid question

I don't think so.
You can make it fire another way, so how could it be you?
I'd be on the phone with them about it, after a reluctor gap check.

I almost hate to ask, but you put the rotor back in, right? :)
 
Lol I did forget to put the rotor on once but I solved that problem. This is the second one they have sent me doing the same thing. How do I check the relutor gap?
 
Maybe the way it sits in the engine grounds out or opens the relucter circuit.
This happens with harness connecters sometimes. Moving them around equals make and break.
 
#1 never spin a gm style dist to test it ! Itt can and does blow out the ign. mod. unless you have all the secondary leads grounded. all 8,,If you run a compression test on a engine with gm system always remove power to the dist first or mod can blow , I have seen it done many times working al a gm truck dealer It was the first thing we told all new techs.
 
I had read that you are not supposed to check them without every plug wire connected and that is the way I have checked it. Just like it would run just spun by hand
 
Seems to me this HAS to be one of two problems, one possibility is going to be VERY "rare."

1.....Weird would be some problem caused by sitting in the engine mechanically. I'm speaking here "maybe" the shaft does not fit right, and is being pushed up so far as to interfere internally in the distributor. Since the distributor should have it's own thrust bearing / washer. I don't see this. Only other related would be internal distributor wear

More common might be to examine the top assembly of the shaft in relation to the drive tang I HAVE HAD a GM dist. where the "top hat" came undone from the main shaft, allowing the top to spin on the shaft


2....What I'd bet is that YOU ARE NOT getting 12V to the dist. in the car. Have you actually checked this, both "in run" and "in cranking." If you are checking "cranking" HOW ARE you cranking the engine? You MUST use the KEY to crank the engine in order to simulate "real world" conditions


Also, did "this thing" run for awhile and has now failed, or are you just not installing it and cannot get it to work?

And last, AS ALWAYS what are we working on, here? A link to the exact model / part number is helpful, even better would be a link to the destructions online if available.
 
I will get a link and more info about the dist in the morning when I get to my computer. This is a new dist to replace my points style. I am starting with the key
 
Similar to what Teringer said, operating without the rotor, with coil connected to can damage the electronics. The spark may jump to the pickup assembly, this may damage the module. The module input for pickup is fairly sensitive for 1V when cranking, a spark is 30KV+, ouch!

When bench testing, spinning the distributor the wrong way results in incorrect spark phase, so problem is similar to above. It happens because it triggers on the other edge of reluctor tooth. With narrow teeth, may get by, other ignitions possibly not. The spark is in-between cap terminals, so again it may find path to pickup. For bench testing, most simple setup is, hooking spark plug to coil and ground, not to cap plug wires plugs .... Open firing an electronic ignition without grounding secondary or plug to ground is not recommended. While a few may be lucky and say other wise. It may come to haunt as an early failure, in the future.
 
did you disconnect ballast and make jumper wire connect wires back together?
 
2....What I'd bet is that YOU ARE NOT getting 12V to the dist. in the car. Have you actually checked this, both "in run" and "in cranking." If you are checking "cranking" HOW ARE you cranking the engine? You MUST use the KEY to crank the engine in order to simulate "real world" conditions


So this is a new installation and has never run in the car is that right?

And you have not bothered to ACTUALLY CHECK that you get 12V to the unit in both run and crank?

Try cranking the engine with the key "in run" and jumpering the start relay
 
Yes it is a new install. I will double check tonight to make sure I wasnt misreading my meter that I have 12v.
 
Also, on initial checkout I wire a single spark plug (or tester) straight off the coil. That bypasses any rotor/distribution issues. Insure your test plug electrode is grounded to BATT- or the engine block. As mentioned, don't ASSume any voltages, measure with a multimeter, and also as you are cranking.
 
I have actually been checking the firing of this dist by a in line spark tester and by putting a test light on the - terminal on the coil.
 
I had this happen on a stock mopar dist. with a new parts store pickup coil. Turn it sideways and it would fire, hold it vertically and nothing. I took an old pickup out of my stash of distributors and it fired.So, it might be the pickup.
 
I had this happen on a stock mopar dist. with a new parts store pickup coil. Turn it sideways and it would fire, hold it vertically and nothing. I took an old pickup out of my stash of distributors and it fired.So, it might be the pickup.


That sounds like the problem. This is the second one they have sent me because of this problem:violent1:
 
I installed one of these in my 360 worked great there are 2 wires on the dist.Red one is for 12 volt and + on coil black one goes to-on coil hope this helps. Jim
 
Ok full 12v power coming in and while turning over. The dist is still not sending signal to the coil to fire.
 
Ok full 12v power coming in and while turning over. The dist is still not sending signal to the coil to fire.

Are you hooking up the wires right, Something sounds goofy, Those dist. are very simple with there internal coil, its just 2 wires, the tach & 12v source, I have used about 5 of these E-Bay dizzys with no issues, 4 were HEIs, Did you bypass the ballast with a jumper wire? If its the 4 prong, theres a high & low voltage side. Now just for a test, you can run a 10 gauge jumper wire from the + battery terminal to the Batt. side on the cap, see if it starts.
 
HOW ARE EXACTLY and I mean EXACTLY are you checking this 12V?

EXAMPLE. Let's say you are disconnecting the wire from the distributor and hooking this to the voltmeter, and it "checks good" with 12V both in "run" and in "start."

THIS DOES NOT PROVE (in this example) that the distributor is getting power!!!!

You MUST hook up the meter TO THE distributor and check wiring UNDER LOAD

Without a link to destructions, or picture, from you................... "we" are working in the dark.

IS THERE MORE than one connection under the cap? Maybe you are hooking power to the tach output by mistake!!!!

Again, no destructions. This is a GM cap:

http://chevythunder.com/HEI%20coil%20in%20cap%20BAT%20connection%202.jpg

http://chevythunder.com/HEI coil in cap terminal IDS.jpg

I would be hooking a battery source DIRECT to the battery terminal in the cap and hook that to something like the starter relay for testing

Evidently this "was" "Procomp Electronics?" and is now "Speedmaster?"

http://blog.speedmaster79.com/new-management-at-procomp-electronics-and-the-launch-of-speedmaster/

I did finally find this at "KMJPerformance"

http://kmjent.com/tech-support/

PC6000SeriesHookUp.jpg


By the way, guys, these folks are one of the outfits that are selling cheap copies of MSD stuff
 
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