Do freeze plugs work as they should???

-
lawndart360

lawndart360

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Messages
143
Reaction score
2
Location
NE Ohio
:sad1: When I bought my Dart, it came with a 360, the block was dated 1978. At least a couple of the freeze plugs were missing. The car ran well, but with no coolant, it was only permitted for very short periods. The previous owner states it had water in engine and was left outside overnight, causing it to freeze and subsequently pop the freeze plugs. Like I say, the engine runs well, but I have since pulled the engine, initially planning to install a 383, am now considering keeping the 360. Does it have to be stripped and subjected to various methods for locating cracks at a machine shop, or should I put new freeze plugs in and pressure test the coolant system and go from there. Just don't want to waste time on a cracked block.
 
i'd say your on the right trail with the pressure test, that should be the teller...my uncle Harry used to go out in the winter and knock the freeze plugs out of whatever was sitting around, we would put new plugs in the next spring and go.
 
I'd recommend that you go ahead and pressure test the block cold and when you get it running do it again hot. Sometimes cracks will seal cold but open up and leak when hot. For gramatical correctness the plugs are actually called core plugs, they plug the holes in the side of the block left over from the mold supports during the casting process at the foundry. :burnout:
 
Demonseed is right. These are not really freeze plugs. If the block froze, and popped a couple plugs, there is a good chance the block, and more likely the heads are garbage. I've seen cylinders split like cheap rubbers from freezing.
 
Yeah i had this problem with my ole 318 in my 67 Dart about 3 years ago. I had water in it that summer and never filled it back up with anit freeze. That winter it Froze up but didn't pop a freeze plug out at that time. About a week or 2 later i had to put 2 freeze plugs in to stop it from leaking on each side. Car ran fine for about 2 years after that, then one day it just started running hot and losseing water. I would fill it back up and 2 days later it would be low again. Finally it got to the point where if I ride down the street it was hot and low on water with in a few mins. Now last week i jumped in it for a quick to the end of the street and back joy ride and when got back i decided to check the oil and what did i see. Milk shake nice lil vanila milk shake. Ok get this i just pulled the 318 out Wednesday and found that the block has 3 cracks, one on the passenger side and 2 on the driver side. Luck me I had already plan on replacein the 318 with the 360 I just got from the machine shop yesterday.
 
I bought it with the understanding that the engine may not be any good. I have a '66 383 eng and trans on stand by, just thought I would keep it simple and keep the 360 for a little while!!!
 
I would just run it if it seems to run OK and you are not commited to any particular course of action. In fact, run it HARD. If there is any cracks they will become apparent soon enough either through obvious leaks or oil contamination as stated above. Just don't plan any long trips until you are sure you can trust it.
 
ive had them crack in the valley, and between the center core plugs. ive also patched both with JB weld after cleaning with brake clean. it doesnt last forever but it will last a while
 
Since you already have the block out, strip it and have it magnafluxed. Once you pop the heads off, you may find that you want to bore it anyways and get valve guides and a good three angle valve job.

Then get a mild cam (216-224 @ .050) and some flat tops. Why mess around? Do it right the first time and ride with pride! :thumbup:

Now you've got a good foundation for future upgrades (roller cam, aluminum heads, etc.), you make all hot rodders look good because your not belching antifreeze all over the street to the horror of the local enviroterrorists, and your not blowing smoke halfway down the road (unless it's tire smoke!).
 
I agree with you Ramcharger. I was going to build an engine/trans stand and run it, but even then it could take a while to surface. I don't want to spend countless hours detailing and prepping a junk block, besides the more I think about it, the more I want the 383 anyways.
I already have disk brakes, just need torsion bars, Schumaker Mounts, and I really would like to track down manifolds, even though i'm sure they are similar in price to TTI headers, if not more. I'm looking at the previous 3 items as the most expensive, realizing there is a lot more to the swap.
 
lawndart360 said:
I agree with you Ramcharger. I was going to build an engine/trans stand and run it, but even then it could take a while to surface. I don't want to spend countless hours detailing and prepping a junk block, besides the more I think about it, the more I want the 383 anyways.
I already have disk brakes, just need torsion bars, Schumaker Mounts, and I really would like to track down manifolds, even though i'm sure they are similar in price to TTI headers, if not more. I'm looking at the previous 3 items as the most expensive, realizing there is a lot more to the swap.
Click to expand...

Just a note, don't waste your time looking for factory cast exhaust manifolds for the 383, the only way you'll fit it into an A body, and have a reasonable amount of room, is with TTI's or Schmacher headers.

Terry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top