Do I need a snubber on a 8 3/4 rear end?

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The rear end I bought didn't come with a snubber, is it a must have?

Also just to throw it out there is there a diagram available that shows the assembly of new axles with green bearings?

Thanks!
 
Some say snubber is a integral part of your suspension althought I purchased a threaded adjustable one from Mancini looks beefy and cool but i ended up backing it all the way out because I dont want to hear the snubber smashing a hole in the floor every time you launch the car or hit a bump? Maybe if you are planning on racing the car
 
The Mopar suspension book says no with an automatic, yes with a straight shift.
 
Depends what your doing with the car.
For a stock to mild car I would suggest at least a stock oem snubber.
For a street/strip car adjustable snubber all the way.
 
The Mopar suspension book says no with an automatic, yes with a straight shift.

That's interesting.
Is that for the adjustable snubber ?

As far as I know the factory installed the standard oem snubber on autos and 4 speeds.
 
That's interesting.
Is that for the adjustable snubber ?

As far as I know the factory installed the standard oem snubber on autos and 4 speeds.

That's for the MP snubber. But keep in mind, Shepard is taking for granted SS springs are on the car. And he's right. the snubber isn't really needed with SS springs and an auto....though lots of people do it anyway. I have myself.
 
Do you have a door you need to prop open, perfect use for a pinion snubber. :)
 
So opinion really seems mixed if one is needed or not?

Like said it depends on what you are doing with the car. I bought an 8 3/4 rear out of an auto car and it had a snubber. I converted the stock snubber to an adjustable one for strip use.
 
you use the pinion snubber with factory leafs, when you get SS springs and know how to really set them up you need NO snubber anymore. . .
 
What would need to be done to have them really set up?


You set up the front half of the spring to be or act as a link bar. . .

The rear half is the spring, then you take the snubber and throw it with the rest of the removed weight pile.

Getting the ride part of the spring right is trial and error on what you want playing with different rate and length leaves, the front section needs a couple killer 900 lb leaves.
Then you'll have a ladder bar, without the ladder bar
 
You set up the front half of the spring to be or act as a link bar. . .

The rear half is the spring, then you take the snubber and throw it with the rest of the removed weight pile.

Getting the ride part of the spring right is trial and error on what you want playing with different rate and length leaves, the front section needs a couple killer 900 lb leaves.
Then you'll have a ladder bar, without the ladder bar

Wow that is a whole lot more work than an adjustable snubber. I had a 72 scamp 440/727, J-converter. 4.88 8 3/4 spool with the 002/003 springs and they worked great, 1.34 60 fter's. one day i was under the car and noticed that the car was leaving so hard that the axle was wrapping up and both shocks were dented from the housing hitting the shocks. New shocks, adjustable snubber, end of problem! 60 ft times improved to 1.31-1.32. Works for me! But this is a highly debated subject.
 
I only know about MY car, which is a four speed with DOT radial slicks. This is with 002/003 springs and Mancini shocks.

I welded a heavy pad onto the floor where the snubber is. The snubber is Mancini's set about 1" from the pad. When the slicks are on a sticky surface, the snubber makes a real difference. Without it, I had wheel hop. My buddy said that the front segment was wrapping up. On the street, it doesn't matter becasue the tires don't hook.

If your car is close to stock, or if you don't have SS springs, you don't really need a snubber. The stock one is about a mile away from the floor anyway.
 
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