Doctor Diff 1/2 offset spring hangers are back !

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Has anyone installed these and can post up some pics?
 
toolmanmike said:
Has anyone installed these and can post up some pics?
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I will say having installed both the Mopar kit and the Dr. Diff kit the biggest difference being no hole/dent needed on the frame to clear the bolt on the front spring hanger on the Mopar kit. The Dr. kit uses a counter sunk bolt allowing clearance for the frame and spring hanger without modifying the frame for clearance. I can get pictures later today. You still need to relocate the spring mounts on the axle. Rear shackles are basically the same, being careful not trying to snap the bolts bringing them up to torque. I somehow broke a bolt on both kits just trying to tighten them properly. Apparently not.
 
It reads 67-76 A body, does anyone know why they won't work on 64-66 A body. I have always moved leaf springs into the frame in the past, now slowly working on a 64 Dart and haven't got to the rear yet just collecting parts just curious if they will work and give more room for larger tires?
 
moparlvr166 said:
It reads 67-76 A body, does anyone know why they won't work on 64-66 A body. I have always moved leaf springs into the frame in the past, now slowly working on a 64 Dart and haven't got to the rear yet just collecting parts just curious if they will work and give more room for larger tires?
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Yep installd on a 65 Dart no issue
 
Here are pictures of the Dr Diff kit on my 69 Cuda. Please disregard the undercoating/coats of paint on the frame. It is original to the car as I bought it and have not stripped it to the frame. Thanks

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Great kit, put one on my 73Duster 8 1/4” rear to clear my 15x8 4.5” BS with 275/60/15 plenty of room now
 
I just ordered a set as well,,,I’m glad they were back in stock .
I went ahead and purchased an extra set of perches since they were discounted.

Tommy
 
rowinafour said:
I will say having installed both the Mopar kit and the Dr. Diff kit the biggest difference being no hole/dent needed on the frame to clear the bolt on the front spring hanger on the Mopar kit. The Dr. kit uses a counter sunk bolt allowing clearance for the frame and spring hanger without modifying the frame for clearance. I can get pictures later today. You still need to relocate the spring mounts on the axle. Rear shackles are basically the same, being careful not trying to snap the bolts bringing them up to torque. I somehow broke a bolt on both kits just trying to tighten them properly. Apparently not.
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I have had a Dr. Diff kit new in box for a year or so and spare A Body 8 3/4 so pics would be nice.
I was wondering what most pay to have the perches cut off and the new ones put on.
 
340six said:
The picture on my phone is almost postage stamp size. What's wrong that brings this comment ?
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Undercoating looks heavily applied. I took rowina4’s comment as if he would eventually strip it to the frame. If you’ve never done it undercoating can be a chore to remove.
 
340six said:
I have had a Dr. Diff kit new in box for a year or so and spare A Body 8 3/4 so pics would be nice.
I was wondering what most pay to have the perches cut off and the new ones put on.
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I had a kit for a while and a fella really needed one for his Dad’s restoration so I sold it to him. I’m glad it wasn’t a long time before Doc got more in stock because my plans accelerated a bit and now I’m ready for them.

As far as welding work, find a mobile welder or just take the housing to a fabricator, chassis or drivetrain specialist. This is a small job and they could probably do it while you wait if they aren’t backed up. I would say anywhere between $50-75 if you cut the old perches off and have new ones in hand. Do you have a cut off wheel and angle grinder? Harbor Freight has cheap ones. Just wear closed toe shoes!
 
go-fish said:
Undercoating looks heavily applied. I took rowina4’s comment as if he would eventually strip it to the frame. If you’ve never done it undercoating can be a chore to remove.
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I removed many cars undercoating. It is a job on jack stands. Starting to think I spent more time on my back than a Twenty Dollar Hoe
 
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340six said:
I removed many cars undercoating. It is a job on back stands. Starting to think I spent more time on my back than a Twenty Dollar Hoe
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Not to mention the lung damage if you put some heat on it.

Dry Ice Blasting is the best way but wayyy too expensive.
 
I installed the Dr. Diff offset hangers last spring (got his last set). Here's my results, but keep in mind I was going from an 8.25 to an 8.75. Some of that difference is due to the width of the rear ends.

Before
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After
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BrianT said:
I was going from an 8.25 to an 8.75.
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Let me guess, 255?
I have a 8.25 Duster and spacing looks exactly like that with a .25” spacer. I would like to see if 275’s would be doable with the relocation. I just purchased a kit and have a couple A-body 8.75 housings to choose from.
 
go-fish said:
Let me guess, 255?
I have a 8.25 Duster and spacing looks exactly like that with a .25” spacer. I would like to see if 275’s would be doable with the relocation. I just purchased a kit and have a couple A-body 8.75 housings to choose from.
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I had 275s on my 65 Valiant with the relocation hangers. I was also able to fit 28 9 15 M/T ET streets under it when I went to the track. I did roll the outer lip because it would scrub every now and again with my son in the back seat and a trunk fulla groceries.
 
This is probably close to 30 years ago. That's my car on the left and John Berta's 71 Cuda on the right. I cannot tell for sure, but I am almost 100% positive this is with the E/T Streets on it. This is one of very few pictures I have of it, as my ex wife burned almost all of my car pictures from days gone by.
VALIANT FINCHER'S.jpg
 
go-fish said:
Let me guess, 255?
I have a 8.25 Duster and spacing looks exactly like that with a .25” spacer. I would like to see if 275’s would be doable with the relocation. I just purchased a kit and have a couple A-body 8.75 housings to choose from.
Click to expand...

275’s are doable without the 1/2” offset although it’s VERY tight. With a 1/2” offset 275’s on a Duster have good clearance as long as the backspacing centers the wheel in the tub.
 
To further complicate things I bought a pair of used 15X9 wheels with four inch bs. They had worn out 275s on there, but I bolted them on anyway for mock up. Looks like I need five inch back space.

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I’d like to tuck them as best as possible. Sticking out too far for my taste.

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