Dodge D100 project "Grim Sleeper"

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Jonnylightening

Jonnylightening

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Hi guys I've recently bought a mid 70's dodge D100. My plans for the truck are to build it into a sleeper. It has a bone stock 318 and 4 speed (NP435). I'm planning on building the 318 but would like to swap out the 4 speed for a car 4 speed and do something to the rear suspension. I'm looking for as much help as I can get, and what better place than FABO. The best thing about this project is I only paid $400 for the truck, and the cab and frame are both solid as hell. My plans are to lighten the truck as much as possible and set the motor up with a 100-150 shot of nitrous. Like I said I'm looking for as much input as possible. Any and all help is gratefully appreciated.
 

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nice.....I like it ...you need a build thread ...there are a few guys building trucks here...Macho781988, and dartt are a few guys that come to mind ...there is probably more.

great score on a cool truck
 
Well I was gunna start a build thread but being it's not an A-Body I didn't know if I'd get shunned or not. LOL!!
 
Jonnylightening said:
Well I was gunna start a build thread but being it's not an A-Body I didn't know if I'd get shunned or not. LOL!!
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no way ....we don't do that to MOPAR threads that are a good read and members who give back with useful info and a good attitude.

hope to see this truck get fixed up. :D
 
Why not just leave this thread? It's started.

I have a '72 D100 SE. Drove the factory 360 in it, liked it. would walk up hills on idle with 3.23's and 727.

The problem I see with that 318 is that it is small. If you are looking to build something blinding fast, I would urge you to go with a Mopar siamese block and build a small block 440.

If you don't have the cash, maybe set up a stroker kit for the 'teen or a 360.

The more torque you can throw at it, the better. I'd opt to boost the daylights out of a big block, via supercharge and chuck that between the fenders. Big blocks hold up better to boost/ more head bolts, but you could get a small block pushing about 12psi to do what you wanted.

I'd opt for hemi gear ratio or maybe Passon's 4spd O/D ratios with a 4.10:1 rear, maybe just hemi ratios if you don't care about highway.

The truck frames like to break, up by the engine crossmember, on the way down, where they start to head back/ straight. You should do some bracing up there and box some of it in.

Not much in weight savings, other than gas tank to fuel cell, battery in the bed and if you really wanted to get creative, fiberglass hood and start manufacturing aluminum sheet metal, radiator support, ditch the heater, carpet and bench seat. You could ditch the window reg and go lexan on the sides and rear. Glass windshields are nice, though. Leave it ugly and keep the bumper. You could put a tubular crossmember up there and that would help with twist, if you gusset, while boxing in the rails in places.

How fast are you looking to go?
 
DaveBonds said:
Why not just leave this thread? It's started.

I have a '72 D100 SE. Drove the factory 360 in it, liked it. would walk up hills on idle with 3.23's and 727.

The problem I see with that 318 is that it is small. If you are looking to build something blinding fast, I would urge you to go with a Mopar siamese block and build a small block 440.

If you don't have the cash, maybe set up a stroker kit for the 'teen or a 360.

The more torque you can throw at it, the better. I'd opt to boost the daylights out of a big block, via supercharge and chuck that between the fenders. Big blocks hold up better to boost/ more head bolts, but you could get a small block pushing about 12psi to do what you wanted.

I'd opt for hemi gear ratio or maybe Passon's 4spd O/D ratios with a 4.10:1 rear, maybe just hemi ratios if you don't care about highway.

The truck frames like to break, up by the engine crossmember, on the way down, where they start to head back/ straight. You should do some bracing up there and box some of it in.

Not much in weight savings, other than gas tank to fuel cell, battery in the bed and if you really wanted to get creative, fiberglass hood and start manufacturing aluminum sheet metal, radiator support, ditch the heater, carpet and bench seat. You could ditch the window reg and go lexan on the sides and rear. Glass windshields are nice, though. Leave it ugly and keep the bumper. You could put a tubular crossmember up there and that would help with twist, if you gusset, while boxing in the rails in places.

How fast are you looking to go?
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Thanks for the advice, keep it coming. I'm just wanting to build something to eat ricers and hopefully keep up with 5.0s and Camaros. My main this is to build something thatll run down my cousins 86 Camaro. It has a 350 stock short block, mild head work, bigger cam, intake, headers, and carb.
 
The 435 isn't gonna cut the mustard if you want a 12sec truck. He listed a couple nice options up there I'd like to do if I had the budget
 
Jonnylightening said:
Well i'm wanting to do alittle street/strip And I'm not too sure of the NP435s potential. Don't get me wrong theyre a good stump pullin of a tranny jus not sure on the quick shifts.
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Ah... didntrealize it was a 435. My 76 had an 833 in it.
 
Well today I came across a 340 shortblock all machine works done, just needs put together?? I talked to him for awhile on the phone about it and hes lookin to get $800-$1000?? I just gotta figure out what route I wanna go. I'm thinkin of getting a big 2bbl carb something like what they run on circle track cars. I figure if I'm going from stoplight to stoplight or 1/8 that will be plenty. What do you guys think? If I can get ~350hp the 100-150 shot will take care of the rest.
 
Lucky sob....I've been wanting one of these for a while now. Great price. Can't wait to see what you do with it.
 
ok guys still stuck on the 2bbl thing. Ive been lookin at the quickfuel 500 and holley 2300, seems like a lot use those for circle track racing. Also I have my mind set on the weiand stealth dual plane it's good from idle to 6800 RPMs. Whats your input on this setup? Should I just lose the idea of the 2bbl or go for it. I'm really lookin to be able to really launch hard down low but be able to have alittle top end as well.
 
Nice truck,that thing is a dead ringer my buddies 74 d100 right down to the colors his is an old county trk with a 318/3 on the tree
 
You can get a cheaper 360.

the 340 will be ok, but again, if you can get more cubes, that is going to be the most practical way to get this truck moving.

The 360 is going to be better, because of it's stroke against all of that weight. Getting this thing to move quick from a dead stop is going to take something to the tune of 500ft lbs. Start thinking big torque. HP isn't so much of an issue. It will come with TQ. 350 HP and about 400 TQ is going to put that pickup in the mid 14sec 1/4 bracket somewhere.

If you want to keep a small block, gap the rings big for heavy load. That will give you the opportunity to supercharge, as well. The route I'd go would be small block 440, iron magnum heads, supercharged with about 12lb boost. That should feed somewhere around 500hp 600tq lazy without breaking things. Set it up with std. hemi gears on an 833 with 4.10's and you'll start dropping jaws.

If you want cheap HP, go 360 and stroke it. same deal. Supercharge, big ring gap. Might land you close to 500TQ. Start thinking about tires and possibly weighting the rear or 4 link. If you don't want to spend the time or cash on boost, you can always hide a bottle.
 
As far as the carb goes, you want about 750cfm on a set of ported magnums or stroked 360.

I personally don't think that 2bbl is going to cut it.

How do you plan on driving the stick? That Weiand is a great intake for an engine that will fetch lower to mid range RPM power. It all depends on where you want the engine RPM set. Remember, you don't have a torque converter, so it's all in the cam and your feet. If you spin it to the moon, you're going to want a single plane for high RPM launch, but that may just boil tires in that truck.

I think 350hp is a good range for an A body or even mild B body to go sort of quick, but you're going to want to be in the upper 400hp range to get that thing going. It is heavy.

How this thing hooks and what intake you buy is really going to depend on how you want to drive it and how you use the clutch. Start with the driving technique, pick a cam for your desired hp/ tq and RPM range and buy your intake accordingly.
 
Nice thread. How much budget you got? The 408 ,150 plate more than do able. Gonna need 240-250 cfm intake port flow,a 240-250 @ 050 solid,232 to 240 hydraulic flat tappet. 9.5,10 to 1 optimum. Recommend a automatic (tight9.5 inch,3200-3600 stall.). Either 360/408 will get you there. The 408,will blow your mind.
 
thanks guys for the help, as you can tell i'm still learnin. I'm planning on havin this thing done next spring, so I have all winter.
 
Jonnylightening said:
I'm just wanting to build something to eat ricers and hopefully keep up with 5.0s and Camaros. My main this is to build something thatll run down my cousins 86 Camaro. It has a 350 stock short block, mild head work, bigger cam, intake, headers, and carb.
Click to expand...

I have a 99' CC Dakota, with a 5.2 (K&N drop in, ported/polished TB, superchips) and 3.92 posi it'll outrun any bone stock 5.0's and most pre 95 camaro's. Your truck shouldn't weigh that much more than mine, if any, so the way I see it you're going to need roughly:

300-400 HP
350-450 TQ
Low gears (you have an 8.75 so some 3.91's or 4.11's) to get all the weight moving
Will definitely need a sure-grip

Lastly, enough extra cash to replace your rear tires, often! :D
 
Its real easy to put a 440 in that thing... Drops right in basically. Nice project.
 
Well I could always use my 400? .030 over, kb pistons, .525 lift cam (solid flat tap), double valve springs, ARP rod/main bolts etc. It'll turn 6000+ all day, its gotta be makin at least 400hp?
 
Now ,you're thinking. The short stroke,would work well ,with a manual gearbox. Correct compression, and airflow, needed here. 400 ,a walk ,in the park.
 
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