Dodge Dart Pitman Arm

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wwwfora

wwwfora

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I have a 73 Dodge Dart, I was going to replace the pitman arm because there is a ton of play in the wheels when jacked up off the ground and slop in the pitman where it connects to the center link, but it looks fine to me the issue is that when I try to replace the castle nut and screw it back in the entire shaft turns? So I can't tighten it. Is this normal. I don't understand what could wear out on a pitman. Seems like I only need a new rubber washer, castle nut and cotter pin?

Thanks for any help on replacing or refurbing my pitman.
 
If I am reading this right it sounds like the ball joint that is at the end of the pitman arm is shot. The shaft should not spin by it self, it pivots like any other ball joint but it should not just turn when tighten the castle bolt. A new pitman arm is about $72 I just replaced mine 2 days ago. If and when you do replace it make sure you get a pitman arm puller or you will never get the dam thing off. I swear it’s the hardest thing to get off a car. As a side note just note the position of the pitman arm before you remove it so you can line up the new one when you put it on. Its no hard to do because the inside of the pitman arm is clocked so you cant really put it on wrong as long as you know which way it was facing when you took it off. If I under stood your post this should help you somewhat.
 
Thanks man! That's exactly what I needed to know. I thought i was strange that the shaft actually turned when I tightened the castle nut? Because, I read that it should take like 80lb of pressure to tighten it. funny I know. So, please answer me this. How the hell does a Pitman arm or idler arm go bad? If the washer is good and the spline is good and it's tight? It's ok right? Also, it's not the ball joints, because with the car jacked up if you grab the wheel and the Idler and Pitman flop around like pancakes on a Sunday morning at Denny's! Anyway, I took it to a bunch of old school gear heads at BIG O TIRES and they said they were totally sloppy. But, everybody says replace the! Why? They're not cracked. I'm just going to buy new bushings and castle and cotter! Right?

Thanks for all your help.
Greg
 
also, i've already bought a pitman puller, because I've read it's a like a steering wheel. A real BIATCH! :)
 
The stud part of the pitman arm is tapered as well as the centerlink that it goes thru. Use a big pair of channel locks to squeeze the two together while you tighten the nut. It may still be warn out but this way you can eliminate weather or not the play was in the loose stud or not.
 
Update: My stud as you call it, the oposite end that the castle nut is on, not only spins, but moves around like a joystick? Man what is going on here, is this normal? Is it normal to have to pinch them together with channel locks to tighten the nut to 80lbs? Seems very odd.

Thanks for any input again!
 
It is shot. a word of warning. I bought a $50 puller to pull one of my 99 150 truck. It almost hurt me when it spread, and flew off. I took it to Tire Kingdom, Where they broke a $200 puller.
 
Word on that! I read another forum where the guy said the exact thing about breaking the puller at a shop! It was probably you!

Thanks all.

Let you know how it goes, when I buy an actual socket that will fit the steering arm nut. It seems about 1 5/8 inch or bigger? And yes I have a torque and breaker bar!
 
Take it to the alighment place; it will be cheaper. And less dangerous. And I'm an old fossil front end guy...
 
wwwfora said:
Update: My stud as you call it, the oposite end that the castle nut is on, not only spins, but moves around like a joystick? Man what is going on here, is this normal? Is it normal to have to pinch them together with channel locks to tighten the nut to 80lbs? Seems very odd.

Thanks for any input again!
Click to expand...

Without being there it is a guess on my part, the hole in the drag link may be worn out as in to large.
 
Man, you guys crack me up! When a Pitman arm moves like the joystick in for my atari 2600 it's either normal or not. That's like saying a pogo stick should swivel as you jump, no it should remain rigid. I'll take some picts and post tomorrow, however, I'm still going to order the 50 dollar part. it's not worth crashing on the highway at 65 mph and ruining my ride!

Thanks to all!
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
The stud part of the pitman arm is tapered as well as the centerlink that it goes thru. Use a big pair of channel locks to squeeze the two together while you tighten the nut. It may still be warn out but this way you can eliminate weather or not the play was in the loose stud or not.
Click to expand...


Great post and just to add a different way.....Use a pry bar to push the center link upwards to put pressure on the pitman arm stud and see if you can tighten the nut.

The stud spinning is normal because it's a tapered fit and will spin until tight.
 
Tru that, the guy before mentioned using a channel lock to pinch them as you tighten the castle nut, BUT, the shaft moving in a gyro motion is totally killing me! Is this normal? Come on FABO folks get your fingers moving on that keyboard people need help!
 
Do you guys know where I can find the exact part number of a part for my 73 Dodge Dart Sport 340? I don't want to return orders and some online dealers only offer one pitman arm when I know there are 2 one for manual/power steering. I need Part #'s for the Pitman and Idler arm, I suppose I'll need to buy the bushing set for the Idler Arm as well.

Thanks
 
No it is not normal for it to move around like an Atari joy stick. It should take a little bit of effort to move the (stud, ball joint, thing the castle nut bolts to LOL). It should not be so loose that it just flops from side to side. It sounds like you need a new pitman arm. Like you said better to be safe then crash you ride. Mine didn't do any of the things you described but I replaced it anyway. As far as finding more information about the different pitman arms you might want to try bigblockdart.com tech page they have a lot of good information. If I am not mistaken in 73 the switched to a pitman and idler arm that bolt to the center link from the top down un like the earlier a bodies like my 70 Duster 340. Good luck and keep asking questions someone will have your answer if I didn't help you.
 
Thanks for the info, but BigBlockDart is for B chassis, I have an A body small block 360 :) Anywho, I only have 3 more questions. (famous last words)

1. What size nut is on the Steering Box to Pitman Arm?
2. Torque Specs on same nut and also the Pitman and Idler Arm?
3. Where does the grease go when I replace my Pitman and Idler?

Thanks again everybody!
 
wwwfora said:
Tru that, the guy before mentioned using a channel lock to pinch them as you tighten the castle nut, BUT, the shaft moving in a gyro motion is totally killing me! Is this normal? Come on FABO folks get your fingers moving on that keyboard people need help!
Click to expand...

Hey Tru that, The one that suggested the channel locks was me! I suggested that because as mentioned it is a taper fit, if the nut or threads on the stud have dirt on them, yes the stud will spin if it has a little wear, the channel locks are suggested to force the tapered stud into the taper of the center link to create friction so that you can tighten the nut to determine if in fact the joint is bad by assessing the play in the pitman arm. But I should guess by TRU THAT that you are a young man that has been every where but the electric chair and seen every thing but the wind. I will refrain from giving you my opinion in the future.


And Big Block Dart is for A-bodies not B
 
Not sure why your getting rude, I totally understand your suggestion, and will use it when installing my new pitman as I understand that the shaft and centerlink are both tapered. "Tru that" I don't even use, not to get off topic, but judging others on this forum it's not the point, and I never offended you.
 
I found this so far, the Hayes Manual is horrible and doesn't give all the specs on all the nuts.

1. What size nut is on the Steering Box to Pitman Arm?
I'm guessing from others this is 1 5/8 this could also be 1 5/16 will update post tomorrow after I remove.

2. Torque Specs on same nut and also the Pitman and Idler Arm?
Pitman arm nut 170lb
*Pitman arm to centerlink nut?
Idler arm mount to K frame 40lb
*Idler arm to centerlink nut?

3. Where does the grease go when I replace my Pitman and Idler?
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
And Big Block Dart is for A-bodies not B
Click to expand...

(Question 1) I gave you in the (P.S.) post the nut that holds the Pitman arm is 1 5/8.

(Question 2) I am at work and can’t check any of my reference books that I have at home. I am in the middle of moving so if I see you don’t have an answer after I un-pack I will look it up for you.

(Question 3) There are grease fittings at the bottom of the pitman arm (under the part that moves like a joystick). The Idler arm has it on the same spot as the pitman arm. Now that I think about it, if what I said in the other post is true and 73 have the pitman and idler arm that blot from the top down they will both grease fitting will be on top opposite the (joystick).
 
Pitman Arm, Idler Arm install COMPLETE! I like to finish what I started so Thank you to those who helped me along the way. These cars are always different depending on who wrenched on it, so if this info is not correct please be aware.


1. What size nut is on the Steering Box to Pitman Arm?
I'm guessing from others this is 1 5/8 this could also be 1 5/16 will update post tomorrow after I remove. For me 1 5/16 was perfect go with this first!

2. Torque Specs on same nut and also the Pitman and Idler Arm?
Pitman Arm Moog Part # MOG-K7075 Manual Steering
Pitman arm nut on sector shaft (steering box spline) 170ft. lbs
Pitman arm to centerlink nut is
1/2" threads - 30 ft.lbs
9/16" and 5/8" theads 60 ft. lbs

Idler Arm Moog Part # MOG-K7086 Manual Steering
Idler arm mount to K frame 50 ft. lbs
Idler arm to centerlink nut 35 ft. lbs

3. Where does the grease go when I replace my Pitman and Idler?
The parts are all pre greased, however, it's been said that the long bolt that connect the idler to the frame should be well greased.

3 side notes: 1. The Zerk Grease cap must be tapped with a hammer to get the threads going then tighten with a open end wrench/boxend.

2. Although most Headers claim to not come in contact with moving or stationary parts...ehem....my TTI 900 dollar headers. Turning the wheel to the passenger side actually caused my Moog replacement idler arm to hit the exhaust tube. Now how could that be?Motor mounts yea yea, true. Upon inspecting my old Idler arm, I found that the last group of guys ground it down. So tonight I'll grind mine the same way, I would say at most about 1/8 inch. Anyway, who knows why just a word of warning. That nothing is as it reads on paper.

3. Final note in beginning this post I asked if the Idler/Pitman should spin or move around like a joystick. The answer is yes, both my replacement parts did, however the Pitman arm had more play than the idler, although much less then the warn out parts that came off the car.

So, everything is tight and no more wobble; like new. Alignment set for Monday and I'm off.

I hope this helps people who need specific answers.
 
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