Does anyone make a small block engine cradle that's worth a @#!!

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LXguy

LXguy

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Hey All:

Looking for a way to put a couple of shortblocks on wheels as I need my engine stand for other purposes.

I've had back luck with engine cradles for small block mopar. the last one I ordered (allstar) isn't even close. The square tube holding the plates for the tranny dowels majorly hits the block so there's no way to get it on there.

I'll whizzy wheel this one, but I need a couple more. Anyone have a recommendation?

Thanks

Steve
 
Yeah I need to find something too, I couldn't rotate the block on my stand because the bolts/nuts would hit the shaft that leads down to the base..
 
What I have done is bought used motor stands off of Craigs list. I have picked up two, one was $25.00 and the other $30.00. Clean it up at the car wash and paint it with a rattle can.

protection/certification/guarantee. More info
Engine stand - $35 ( Champaign)

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Date: 2011-04-09, 8:10PM CDT
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]

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Good used engine stand $35 217-520-537six


•Location: Champaign
•it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests



PostingID: 2315861538


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I have seen several made out of wood..and one was used for breaking the engine in. Folks underestimate the strength of wood....however, if you are good with a torch and have access to cheap metal or used rigs that may be your best bet.

Metal has skyrocked lately..I bough 2 lengths of 20 rebar and paid almost 25 including tax..ouch !
 
I used to make these, but people want me to sell them for the same prices as the shitty ones summit sells... no thanks

I used an actual block as a jig to make them.

Engdolly.jpg


The pain for these things is shipping them. UPS/FedEx dimensional weight them and it's REALLY high cost. I think the last one I sent was $40. If I could get the local greyhound to ship them for a better cost, I may start making them again. but no delivery to people doorsteps.
 
That looks nice. If the crossbars were bolt-on instead of welded, that would cut shipping considerably because you could send it in pieces.

With the SB fords its cake to make one that doesn't need a crossbar at all.

I might try my hand at making one, but I have to mooch welding skillz.
 
1970Duster said:
You can always make your own
Click to expand...

That was my conclusion.

I wanted a break in stand.
Anything imported was a piece of ****, and anything made by american pieces of **** was way overpriced.

So I made my own.
Best way to go.
 
J4R3D said:
Yeah I need to find something too, I couldn't rotate the block on my stand because the bolts/nuts would hit the shaft that leads down to the base..
Click to expand...


Harbor Freight? You either have the bolts in backwards or have to notch the triangle support.
 
mancini sells a very good one clears deep pans nice casters on it thats what i have
 
LXguy said:
That looks nice. If the crossbars were bolt-on instead of welded, that would cut shipping considerably because you could send it in pieces.

With the SB fords its cake to make one that doesn't need a crossbar at all.

I might try my hand at making one, but I have to mooch welding skillz.
Click to expand...

And that takes time so the cost would go up...

It's either a higher price on the materials/build time or one piece and higher ship cost.

Those casters pictured were $20 for a set alone, then toss in the steel, bolts and fab time, even at $75 I'm making about $10/hr for making them before cost of equipment... ain't getting rich on them.

I see the summit POS is up to $75 now... they used to be about $45
 
It seems ridiculous that you can buy an engine stand for less than it costs to get an engine cradle.

Crackedback, maybe you could charge less if you didn't have to pay that dancer. But the world's a better place with her where she is... :love4:
 
Get some of those cheap movers dollys from harbor freight...look here..............................
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-movers-dolly-38970.html
then set your engine on it using wood blocks to level, and strap it down with 2 cheap ratchet straps. works great...I have several of them, including a complete 440 with a 727 sitting on one with no probs. They handle 1000 pounds, sit low, and roll around well.
 
Hadahemi said:
Get some of those cheap movers dollys from harbor freight...look here..............................
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-movers-dolly-38970.html
then set your engine on it using wood blocks to level, and strap it down with 2 cheap ratchet straps. works great...I have several of them, including a complete 440 with a 727 sitting on one with no probs. They handle 1000 pounds, sit low, and roll around well.
Click to expand...

I had one of those HF moving dollies... it's in three pieces now!

I did use the wheel/casters on another one I made from steel.
 
crackedback said:
I had one of those HF moving dollies... it's in three pieces now!

I did use the wheel/casters on another one I made from steel.
Click to expand...



I guess I should say that I put a piece of heavy plywood over the dolly first, to distribute the weight, but I've had great results with them.
 
Too bad you aren't closer. I have one in my attic that I built for my 340, but don't need anymore. I'd just give it to you.
 
iv got our motor on a alum dolly i made .long block....front mts use alum angle..problem is rear mt...i wanted to work on clutch while it was sitting on this dolly..mopar didnt provide rear mts..if you bolt it to the bell, you cant dialin the bell to crank.to work on the rear of it clutch and pr plate.so i tryed the support holes [block to trans.[not very good..so to work on it i used a hoist from rafters to take a little weight off and support it..after putting it togerther, i made a starting frame of square tube stee and put in a k member used stock m/mnts built a ign system,used a pair of glass packs for mufflers,the radiater out of the car.portable boat motor gass tank for fuel..and lit her up...now iv got a starting rack i need to get rid of..while i get the steering finished and the harness rebuilt the motor sts and waits...anyone want to stop by and pick up this frame for starting your motor outside the car..j
 
do they make a stand where you can bolt the engine to it at the mounts, AND also bolt the transmission to it??
 
I've built a couple of mine so you can dial in a bellhousing.

The guys that got them were happy with how I did it and the bells were done while on the cradle.
 
I was thinking of getting a used engine stand and then cutting it down to the hight and width needed. Fast, cheap and easy.
If you run a stock width pan you can take 2x8 wood and make a solid bottom box that the pan will fit in and the weight is supported by the pan rails on the block. Add the casters as needed, I did this for BB fords and it worked great. Notch the rails for drain plug clearance and for the ends of the motor. Fast, cheap and easy.
 
340_833 dart said:
Too bad you aren't closer. I have one in my attic that I built for my 340, but don't need anymore. I'd just give it to you.
Click to expand...


aargh. Got a box? LOL

Finished hacking on this one I've got. It works now:

IMG_1880.jpg


I think I'll be ordering one of those listed above for a substitute. It should be noted that on this crappy cradle I have the bolts to go through the motor mounts aren't long enough to get the threads started. Do you think they actually had a Mopar engine block or did they just look at a picture?
 
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