Does this 318 sound healthy?

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Carlitos1017

Carlitos1017

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Does this engine sound healthy? I have no prior knowledge of the cam or any other upgrades to the engine. Only thing I've done was swap the intake and carb to a 4bbl. Drives great but warms up to around 230 in traffic. Will cool down to 180 when I'm able to step on it.

727 trans 3.73 diff
it runs and drives great to my knowledge. Able to break traction and one wheel peel if that's any help. Stomping on it from a stop isnt very eventful. Looking to get it tuned for more power before throwing any more money at it. Thank you guys!
 
Sounds healthy... But by ear sounds like it would like a little more initial timing :)
 
Also, check to see how much toltal timing you have when you increase rpm until it stops advancing with the vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged or capped. It may be purposely retarded at idle to limit the total advance timing. Thre's a tech section here about shortening the total advance curves in the factory distributor.
 
Why is idle so low.
Is it automatic trans?
Now what does it idle like in gear?
 
Sounds like one of those whiplash style cams that sound like they run good.
 
temp issue - does the car have a clutch fan? sounds like not enough air moving through the radiator at idle. if the clutch is wasted it might not be turning the fan enough to cool.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Also, check to see how much toltal timing you have when you increase rpm until it stops advancing with the vacuum advance disconnected and the line plugged or capped. It may be purposely retarded at idle to limit the total advance timing. Thre's a tech section here about shortening the total advance curves in the factory distributor.
Click to expand...
You said retarded. Stop talkin about me like that.
 
RustyRatRod said:
You said retarded. Stop talkin about me like that.
Click to expand...
I resemble that remark!
You don't know much about the motor so investigate.
Check Post 4 1st. Set at 34 then see what your initial is. Might need some recurving.
Check your compression. I over cammed a low compression motor that sounded awesome and wouldn't get out of its own way back in the day.
As said what fan set up. Do you have a shroud? Timing can affect temps.
I'm sure other will give you some more ideas.
Check thing out and report back.
 
I would start with the basics, read the plugs, check initial and total timing, put a vacuum gauge on it and optimize the idle vacuum reading.
 
A vacuum gauge is very useful for showing what might be going on. Hook up a gauge to the manifold vacuum port of carb and take video of what it is like at idle, then goose the engine and quickly let go of the throttle to check the internals of the engine. You can look at the many vacuum gauge reading examples in books or the internet to interpret the results.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I resemble that remark!
You don't know much about the motor so investigate.
Check Post 4 1st. Set at 34 then see what your initial is. Might need some recurving.
Check your compression. I over cammed a low compression motor that sounded awesome and wouldn't get out of its own way back in the day.
As said what fan set up. Do you have a shroud? Timing can affect temps.
I'm sure other will give you some more ideas.
Check thing out and report back.
Click to expand...
Video shows a shroud and the fan appears to be setting correctly within. I also see what appears to be more than enough radiator for a 318. "Drives great but warms up to around 230 in traffic. Will cool down to 180 when I'm able to step on it." This tells me it's not pulling enough air through the radiator if cools down to 180 once you start moving. Sounds like a fan related issue to me, or the gauge is reading incorrectly, which has personally happened to me.
 
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