74 Duster- It's been difficult to start lately. I noticed what I think is a little binding when turning off the key. But here is what is happening- I turn the key and she turns over, no problem, but wont start. I noticed when I go to turn the key off, it starts to fire up. It sounds like " Blup" and then shuts down. I did test power to the coil a while back and it was good. Sound like a key switch?
Does this sound like the ignition switch?
- Thread starter TF360
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Deweywinger&howe
Well-Known Member
if it has a dual ballast white porcelain it would have exactly those symptoms
put a jumper wire on it should start
The best thing is to take a test light and learn on this It will be real easy
put a jumper wire on it should start
The best thing is to take a test light and learn on this It will be real easy
dart_68
Well-Known Member
It could be the switch as that's a location where power to the coil is switched to bypass the ballast resistor. What you describe sounds like there is no power when the switch is in the starting position but when you let go and it goes to "run" it tries to start. I would check to make sure that there is battery voltage at the coil when the switch is in the "start" position.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Clip voltmeter to coil +. Turn key on to "run" and read. Should read 6-10V or so. Wiggle switch to see how stable it is
Now pull and ground coil wire so it won't fire. Crank engine using the key and watch meter. Voltage should be at least 10.5 or "about the same as battery" when cranking
If those readings are OK, the path through switch, through bulkhead, and to coil are OK
Now pull and ground coil wire so it won't fire. Crank engine using the key and watch meter. Voltage should be at least 10.5 or "about the same as battery" when cranking
If those readings are OK, the path through switch, through bulkhead, and to coil are OK
Ok, so I took the battery out to charge it, and put it in another car. It worked fine cranking the Duster, but now it's totally dead. Wouldn't even turn the second car over. I wonder if that's why the car didn't start? The lights came on and it was turning the Duster over. You guys think that why it didn't fire up?
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
It is possible but I'd suspect bad clamp/ post connections. "Stab" your voltmeter onto the top of the posts and see if it reads voltage. Turn on headlights see if they come on. Re-read post voltage and if it is OK then transfer probes first to one, then the other clamp.
I DID once have a battery die--just like that, way back when
Customer had brought a battery "core" in for exchange on a new battery. I used to sort through the cores a bit and try and charge them and "see what we got." Hell the 15 years I worked in the parts business I only bought 1 battery, the rest were "cores" that turned out to be useable
Anyhow, this little group 22 was nice and clean, and load tested like it could start and aircraft carrier. I dragged it home and a couple days later tossed it into the junk Ford Courier. Ran it ?? about a week I guess and one day it just would not start. Nottin. Must'ha had a break in one of the internal cell connectors. Dragged it back to the core pile, LOLOL
I DID once have a battery die--just like that, way back when
Customer had brought a battery "core" in for exchange on a new battery. I used to sort through the cores a bit and try and charge them and "see what we got." Hell the 15 years I worked in the parts business I only bought 1 battery, the rest were "cores" that turned out to be useable
Anyhow, this little group 22 was nice and clean, and load tested like it could start and aircraft carrier. I dragged it home and a couple days later tossed it into the junk Ford Courier. Ran it ?? about a week I guess and one day it just would not start. Nottin. Must'ha had a break in one of the internal cell connectors. Dragged it back to the core pile, LOLOL
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