Door Stuck On Opening

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I don't have the outside door handle installed, so I am only using the inner handle.

The latch is definitely not releasing all the way, when the door is closed onto the striker. When the door is open, I can close the latch on my finger and it releases all the way with no issues. So, this points to the latch being restricted by the striker post, and not being able to rotate back a the way to the fully open position. Finding the cause is where I'm stuck.

I'm gonna go out and get some more pics, just to clarify for everyone what I'm seeing.
 
Not the greatest pics, but you can see the latch fully open and fully closed. So, the travel of the latch is good. It should open enough to come off the striker post easily.
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And you can see on the striker where the latch is making contact...
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Drop the post 1/8”. The latch is supposed to support the door, but not much.
 
When the door handle is pulled, the latch should help "kick" the door outward, just based on where the center of the strike post is. I'm wondering if the rotating latch has a release spring that is maybe worn and not as strong as it used to be. You can see in the pics below what I mean. Door closed, latch is wrapped around the post. Door open, latch is pushed out away from post.

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You've mentioned you can actuate the latch with your finger - I assume that means the latch itself is working reasonable well, which to me would still point to an issue with alignment or binding on the post.

Does the door move smoothly as it engages the post/striker? If you close it slowly, can you see the door shift up or down while it's latching closed? Does it sound smooth, or is there any sound of excessive rubbing?

If you have the weatherstrip, and you're at that point anyway, I'd install it and see if that makes any difference at all.
 
You've mentioned you can actuate the latch with your finger - I assume that means the latch itself is working reasonable well, which to me would still point to an issue with alignment or binding on the post.

Does the door move smoothly as it engages the post/striker? If you close it slowly, can you see the door shift up or down while it's latching closed? Does it sound smooth, or is there any sound of excessive rubbing?

If you have the weatherstrip, and you're at that point anyway, I'd install it and see if that makes any difference at all.

Yeah, everything moves smoothly and freely. The latch has been lubed, new hinges and bushings all lubed up. Door closes easily. It's literally just trying to open it that is messed up.

The car is going into paint soon, so I'm just gonna get the body lines matched up and get it painted. Then I'll go back in with the weather stripping and see about making some small adjustments.

I really hope the compression of the weatherstrip provides some outward "pop" when the door handle is pulled.

Thanks for your effort on this problem, much appreciated.
 
Okay, I’m having the same issue on our 1969 Dart. Trying to assemble the passenger door. Hinges are rebuilt, and the door is lined up nice without the latch. The latch will hit the first catch just fine. It never makes it to the second catch. I took the door latch out, the mechanisms work fine. I took the striker bolt and ran it into the latch mechanism… here is what I have:
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The latch wants to turn the striker bolt. There is a nylon block inside the latch that acts as a ramp, pushing the flange at the end of the striker bolt upwards.
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Anyone seen this before? These are the hinges that came off the car. The B pillar was broken out around the striker, but I fixed that.
 
It seems the strike is installed too far toward the inside of the car. When the door is closed is it smooth with the quarter panel when the latch won't make that second catch? I had that issue on my most recent Dart reassembly. When the strike and captured nut (inside the door post) is loose it should move around, limited by the hole the strike goes through (or by the loose captured nut if it is rusted, or inadvertently welded in a fixed position). I had to take the strike out and make the hole a bit bigger toward the outside of the car to get the strike in just the right position. This situation is more critical if the strike is either high or low in the hole, as the in and out adjustment is more restricted there. I also had to repair the area of the door post around the strike and I think that was what had the hole in not exactly the perfect place.

In reading the old thread above there was also something about the latch "popping the door open" That is not correct - it is the compression of the door seal that does that. The OP didn't have the door seal in place so, of course, no "pop".
 
My issue is that the latch wants to twist the striker bolt when I close the door. It wants to bend the striker upwards because the outer flange on the bolt goes on that nylon block and the nylon block pushes it up. I have good alignment. Just won’t hit the main latch because it jams up on the striker
 
Okay, I figured it out. That nylon “ramp” is spring loaded. I’m guessing it is an anti rattle function or door open assist. It slides on a pin with a spring towards the outside of the latch. It should slide forward when the striker enters the latch. It isn’t doing that. I’m gonna hit it with WD to see if I can get some crud out.
 
One adjustment that many forget to check is the "front/rear" of the striker so to speak. This adjustment requires washers under the striker to keep the head of the striker from jamming into the edge or lever of the latch.
 
Just reading back through this tread: I do not think there is anything in the door latch that is strong enough to make the door "pop". I think that that is provided by the compression of the rubber door seal.
 
I had issues with the striker where the door wouldn’t lock correctly and it turned out that the repro striker I was using had an oversized diameter. Turned it down and everything fixed. Just thought I’d mention it in case it helps.
 
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