You and me both. The guy just handed me back my tool in pieces. Literally, broken arbor, broken clamp, and even bent the lever. I've no clue.I really, REALLY want to know how you could mess one of these up
You and me both. The guy just handed me back my tool in pieces. Literally, broken arbor, broken clamp, and even bent the lever. I've no clue.I really, REALLY want to know how you could mess one of these up
Sorry but ATD is one step better than the Harbor Freight one.Don't get the inexpensive ones off Amazon. I've had very poor results so far with 5/16" cupro-nickel tubing. I think the stem on the button is too small.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M65P9I/?tag=fabo03-20
Buy your choice, flare some lines, and get back to us with the results. Inquiring minds want to know. What kind of line will you be using? The new green colored stuff in the coil seems to be very popular and easy to work with here in the rust belt.That's for the input guys. Like said, I NEVER use a flaring tool, but I do have to make all the lines for this Toad. If I was made of $ I would by the best out there, BUT...... I just want a tool that will do the job, at the least cost! There are PARTS to be bought you know!!!! ha
NO rust her in SE TEXAS!!!!! Just lots of water some days! I will get back with results, but reminder I am 70 and move like a herd of turtles!Buy your choice, flare some lines, and get back to us with the results. Inquiring minds want to know. What kind of line will you be using? The new green colored stuff in the coil seems to be very popular and easy to work with here in the rust belt.
A steal!….'Rigid' brand name. About 30 bucks as I recall....
Looks like a solid well built tool.A steal!
Great tips!If you're double flaring, make sure your cuts are straight. I find that chamfering the inside of the tube and using some antiseize on the arbor and tip of the tube makes it a lot easier.