Dr. Diff 8 3/4 axles

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HemiD@rt

HemiD@rt

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I need to get a set of BBP axles for my 8 3/4 rear. Do I want the 2" studs or the 3" studs? I am going to put drums on for now and may upgrade to discs in the future.

I'm not set on Dr. Diff so if there are any other Better and/or cheaper brands out there let me know.

Thanks!
 
Dr. diff sells good axle so no worries. If you you plan on seeing the track 50% or great than the 3" is what you want.
 
Ok cool. Thanks guys. What is the 3" stud going to do for me over the 2" stud? It's going to be mainly a weekend cruiser with the track in its future.
 
it has to do with NHRA rules that the diameter of the stud must stick out past the end of the lug nut when running slicks. so when running a crager or something its almost an 1.5" of lugnut.

just go with the 3" and be done. also on install use red locktite or they will loosen up after awhile.
 
HemiD@rt said:
Ok cool. Thanks guys. What is the 3" stud going to do for me over the 2" stud?
Click to expand...

Nothing at all, unless you run a 2 piece style AL or simulated 2pc wheel it'll be 1.5 to 1.75 thru the hole, the nhra wants the 3" stud because they think people use acorn nuts on that style wheel and on a 2" stud there is hardly any thread/nut contact.
If you aren't using that style wheel then you don't need the 3" stud
 
This thread got me thinking...

If I'm mainly street, with some strip time, which studs do you go with so you have a stock look on the street (closed acorn lug nuts), but meet racing requirements for the strip (open hex)? (And say I may want the option to throw on some different wheels/tires for racing.) Are the pressed in stock type ok, or are longer screw-in type a must? In other words, which choice to get the best of both worlds?

This would be 400HP range, in a light a-body I'd expect easy 12's in the 1/4 with decent hook up. And keeping typical 10x2.5 drums on the rear.
 
No one mentioned this but there is also appearence. I think the longer studs look good.
 
Most aftermarket axles are screw in studs,Something you should ask when ordering.
I like Dr.Diff products.
Your question depends on what wheel you will be using now or in the future that will determine the stud length. Taper seat wheel can use a plain open steel nut that will alow the stud threads to show to apease track specs,,acorn for the street.
 
Darter6 said:
Most aftermarket axles are screw in studs,Something you should ask when ordering.
I like Dr.Diff products.
Your question depends on what wheel you will be using now or in the future that will determine the stud length. Taper seat wheel can use a plain open steel nut that will alow the stud threads to show to apease track specs,,acorn for the street.
Click to expand...

My options are open on wheels at the moment. I just want to make sure I buy the correct type/length studs so I keep my options open for both street wheel w/acorn nuts and racing wheel with open steel nuts. (Right now I just have Mopar rally wheels w/acorn lug nuts.)
 
I have 18" boss wheels for the street... Which is where it will be for a while. I will need to recoup some funds after this damn hemi swap.
 
tml1138 said:
This thread got me thinking...

If I'm mainly street, with some strip time, which studs do you go with so you have a stock look on the street (closed acorn lug nuts), but meet racing requirements for the strip (open hex)? (And say I may want the option to throw on some different wheels/tires for racing.) Are the pressed in stock type ok, or are longer screw-in type a must? In other words, which choice to get the best of both worlds?

This would be 400HP range, in a light a-body I'd expect easy 12's in the 1/4 with decent hook up. And keeping typical 10x2.5 drums on the rear.
Click to expand...


You use a stud that will be enough to hold your wheel on, so if you use a stl wheel you need a normal stud and a conical/tapered/acorn style nut.
If you use a AL wheel then you may need a flat style nut or even a conical/tapered/acorn style or a ball radius style on AL wheels also.

There are only 3 types of nuts and lug bolt styles which are 1. conical/tappered/acorn 2. the ball radius and 3. the flat that use a washer .

The 3" studs were for the AL style 2 pc wheels with the wider hub, the reason the nhra mandates the longer stud with those is because people would buy those wheels and not use a ET flat or ET conical nut on them and have like 5 threads of engagement.
The ET nuts are extended thread and those are safe to use than using the factory style conical/taper to grab a few threads.

The length of the stud doesn't make strength, just engagement.
.
 
Ok thanks for that info. I understand that it's about thread engagement, which was my concern if buying two sets of rims/wheels, one for street, one for race. I'd rather avoid the long 3" as I'm sure that would interfere with regular acorn style nuts. This means I'd avoid the 2 pc wheels as well. But I didn't know if I was missing something that I'd have to go 2" or 3" studs, no matter what rim I used for racing.
 
Get the aftermarket axles for the screw in studs.(1 .5",2",3") then you can change length of studs as needed. NHRA,Ihra etc require that the stud must extend pass the face of the wheel by the dia of the stud. be very careful of closed end acorn nuts and long studs as the studs can bottom in the nut with out getting proper holding torque on the wheels and possibly messing up the end threads on the stud. makes for a real bad day. also make sure if using shanked lug nuts on the thick wheels that they do not extend past the rear face of the wheel but should come within a 1/8" of the back face. some companys make thru lug nuts with plastic plugs that also look nice and if you go racing the inspector will not make you pull a lug nut off to confirm stud length. I handle moser/strange/mark Williams axles if you need any help.paul
 
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