Drag Headers

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My engine builder is saying he wants 1-3/4 tubes not 1-5/8 so a searching I will go--Steve

The TTI 1 5/8"-1 3/4" step should be considered like 1 3/4". They fit a broad range of HP output. I haven't been on a dyno, but I've run 11-teens at 117+ in a 3,540+ lb car with a 360, normally aspirated and footbraking. Mine are coated in & out and I use their X-pipe & Dynomax UltraFlos.
 
Anyone run the Hooker fenderwells????? Thanks steve
 
I've never run fenderwells, but have been under the impression that they make things more difficult when you need to work on the engine - plugs, valve adj. etc. and may cause tire clearance issues.
 
we run the Hedman headers on our 360 iron head engine that the two rear tubes go out through the fender. They are easy to work around, slip fit which makes r/r much easier, and do not interfere with front tires at all. Now that the torsion bars are gone I can remove and install the headers with the car on the ground and not moving the engine around.
 
Yea but can u remove the oil pan our old hustlers hugged the oil pan so bad u couldn't get to the pan bolts to remove the pan .
 
This is just my opinion from my own experience so nobody get offended please. However I have realized that EVERY time I have dicked around with pulling the pan off in the car I was wasting time because the motor needed to come out anyway. Just an observation of mine.
 
This is just my opinion from my own experience so nobody get offended please. However I have realized that EVERY time I have dicked around with pulling the pan off in the car I was wasting time because the motor needed to come out anyway. Just an observation of mine.

Been here, with small block Chev ,Rats, most anything ,old school. My question, is :WHY? ... So much easier, to pull it(J.M.O.)...
 
I bought a set of Hedman's for my car and sent them back. I reordered Hooker's. They were a whole look better. Still had to socket hammer them in a couple places.
 
Yea but can u remove the oil pan our old hustlers hugged the oil pan so bad u couldn't get to the pan bolts to remove the pan .

Hence the convenience of having the "slip fit" design. Unbolt from heads, unbolt tubes, and they're out of the way..... something that wouldn't happen with the TTI's we ran on our W5 mill.

....and I have to agree. If the pan is coming off, chances are the engine will be on a stand real soon.
 
Anyone run the Hooker fenderwells????? Thanks steve

66340SEDAN does , I have a new set in the box waiting for my 360 upgrade and 904 all ready and here , I just need to save a couple hundred now for disk brake up grade swifter. I don't think Keith will mind me showing his 66 Valiant sedan :color:
 
1966 Plymouth Sedan Hooker fender well headers swifter :glasses7:
This is our great members car 66340SEDAN, the white fenders in these pictures.
 

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Thanks for posting that Mike -does anyone know the tube size on those????? Thanks steve
 
I would definetly go with the hedmans .Picked up one tenth from over the tti's.You could get the raw ones prep an degrease well . paint with a brush on hi temp exhaust paint,holds up better than spray and easier to touch up on car.The hedmans are also easier to install and work on car.
 
If you're worried about the 200 dollar difference, why not look at the Hedman shorty headers? Might leave a little power on the table, but that's splittin hairs, IMO. They are way cheaper than TTI.
 
So U guys that use the hooker super comps is it part # 5115??? Doesn't say it fits A body's but I thought someone said they did no problem???? Thanks Steve
 
5204 is what you want if looking for 1 3/4".

The 5116 are 1 5/8" headers

5115 are B/E headers
 
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