I am running a 65 B-body drive shaft to my posi 8 3/4 4.10 rear end on my duster. (Had it cut down) My question is, with 500hp +/- and over 500 ft lb torque, is this going to last with sticky tires? I can run it with my new radials for a week or 2 til they're bald, :grin: but when I want traction, will this work OK?
Drive Shaft requirements?? Stroker???
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stroked 340
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If your running basically stock u-joints i say no..when i first put mt stroker in i snapped all the lugnuts off the driverside,replaced the stock axles with Mosers and 1/2" studs it then proceeded to rip the rear u-joint/shaft in to pieces..so i had a custom 3" shaft with 1350 u-joints made,and i'm running a billet pinion yoke.no breaking anything in 2 plus seasons...:iconbigg::iconbigg:
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
500hp a factory shaft should be ok... now, which factory shaft do you have ? the swedge shaft that is 2.5" to 3" or 2.75" to 3.5" or that \6 shaft 2.25 to 2.75 ? which length C to C
I would lose the factory 7260 for a spl series, which is equivelant to a 1310 series that will handle beyond 500hp....
This is also if the car hooks and doesn't have any wheel hop..
loading and unloading will break ANYTHING...
I have beyond 700hp on 1310 and 4100 lbs
I would lose the factory 7260 for a spl series, which is equivelant to a 1310 series that will handle beyond 500hp....
This is also if the car hooks and doesn't have any wheel hop..
loading and unloading will break ANYTHING...
I have beyond 700hp on 1310 and 4100 lbs
been running the same small u joints for since 1992 in a 69 barracuda the runs 10.70s...and hit it with a transbrake with big tires....
and i bought the u joints at pep boys back then too...
and i bought the u joints at pep boys back then too...
I know it's bigger than the stock shaft that was on the Duster. Good size diameter. as for the jints, not sure. I know one was big to small (2 size joint)
Thats a little encouraging. Thanks
demon seed
The Original Demon Seed
Nobody asked the gentleman if he's running an automatic or 4 speed so I guess I'll have to. Also if there's even the slightest of chances that she will break invest in a loop before hand.
Build, look, or beg for a shaft that is the same diamater all the way thru.
Do not use a step down shaft, they were economy shafts, that were built various wheelbases to accomidate small rear ends.
Straight shafts were most commen in E-bodys and SWB 2wd trucks.
Install spicer blue cap u-joints and don't worry about it.
Do not use a step down shaft, they were economy shafts, that were built various wheelbases to accomidate small rear ends.
Straight shafts were most commen in E-bodys and SWB 2wd trucks.
Install spicer blue cap u-joints and don't worry about it.
AtomicWedgie
Well-Known Member
If they have differnt size joints now then it might have the 7260/7290 conversion on it.
It SHOULD be ok. You are getting into the HP range where the factory stuff is iffy. Weight of the car is also something to look at. Heavy cars are harder on parts. If I were using it for racing then I would just upgrade and never have to worry about that part again.
I had the same problem so I called A&A Trans and bought a Victory Driveshaft from them. 3"DOM seamless,trans yoke, 1350 trans and pinion joints. $285 to my door. U would just have to put a 1350 pinion yoke on the 8 3/4. Your driveshaft would be golden.
Don't forget your driveshaft saftey loop. A NHRA must!
It SHOULD be ok. You are getting into the HP range where the factory stuff is iffy. Weight of the car is also something to look at. Heavy cars are harder on parts. If I were using it for racing then I would just upgrade and never have to worry about that part again.
I had the same problem so I called A&A Trans and bought a Victory Driveshaft from them. 3"DOM seamless,trans yoke, 1350 trans and pinion joints. $285 to my door. U would just have to put a 1350 pinion yoke on the 8 3/4. Your driveshaft would be golden.
Don't forget your driveshaft saftey loop. A NHRA must!
684mulas
Well-Known Member
The stock u-joints are going to be the weak link. They make heavy duty u-joints for both 7260 and 7290. I would at least do that considering what happens if you snap a u-joint under pressure.
This resulted in a banana shaped drive shaft, damaged pinion yoke, broken tail housing/bent output shaft. A $300 drive shaft would have been a lot easier and cheaper.
This resulted in a banana shaped drive shaft, damaged pinion yoke, broken tail housing/bent output shaft. A $300 drive shaft would have been a lot easier and cheaper.
daredevil
Well-Known Member
That hurt to look at.
Thanks for the info, I might just do that, I would hate to break something and say "I should have done this", Thanks for all the comments everyone! Keep'em coming
stroked 340
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A wise choice i found out the "hard way" :burnout::burnout::burnout:
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
in 92 china wasn't making joints...
Don't buy the joints from ANY big chain store...they are ALL china junk...
China only got into the driveline market about 8 years ago, thank tom woods china shafts.
The conversion joint is not for drag racing...
See your local driveline shop and have them replace the weld yoke or end yoke or make a new shaft
Ok, will do
It is auto and I have a loop to install already.
The shaft I have I took off my 65 Coronet 318 poly car. I had it shortened and is connected to a 8 3/4 489 posi 4.10 rear with stock axles, a 1988 S10 4wd (bleeder off the side) caliper, a nice beefy 1995 Grand Marquis Front rotor. The shaft is the same diameter the whole lenght. Larger than the stock Duster shaft. I think it would be strong enough just both ends need beefed up.
Supershafts
Well-Known Member
Also, if you are really after performance, then just toss that and see your local driveline shop and get a new AL shaft made
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