Driveshaft orientation, '72 Duster 4 speed

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WymanV

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Hey all,

The driveshaft I saved for my '72 Duster has a 'step' in it like you would see where a pipe is slipped into a larger pipe. Which way does that step go, toward the transmission or the axle? I'm about to put the new U joints in it and I'd like to get it right the first time. And a google image search shows both ways.

TIA
 
Pics are from my references and I have no idea who to credit them to.

Step to the front:

lines8.JPG


Step to the back:

20966135-1972-plymouth-duster-thumb.jpg


I don't know if it actually matters but if it does I'd like to get it right the first time.
 
I have some both ways and some shafts stepped on both ends. My guess would be to the rear for more room to undo the u joint strap bolts?
 
I would put the step down (3" to 2 1/2") to the back.

2nd down from the top here, black 727 shaft with the green tape on the rear knuckle > has the step down at the rear.

20250107_102353.jpg


Most of the other 904 shafts have the step downs at the rear.

Very bottom shaft has step downs (2 1/2") front and rear, with a 3" main tube center section.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
As for stock cars, I've never seen the step at the back. But I admit, I haven't seen that many, lol.
With a 4-speed, you should probably run 7290 or better U-joints. So, if your shaft has one 7260, and yur not running a driveshaft loop, I would install it at the rear. That way, when she breaks and and the driveshaft falls down, it doesn't catapult your car into next Tuesday. But, if you have a driveshaft loop, I'd put it at the front. Cuz when it breaks at WOT, at 30 mph, the driveshaft rpm is very low and it doesn't do much damage. Whereas, had the rear broke, and the Engine hit the rev-limiter, mine is set to 7200, so, if the driveshaft stayed in the trans, I'd be looking at a lotta lotta damage.
If you have a 360/5.9M and 295s, you can expect the 7260 joint to not last long. At 400hp and with a CF-II clutch, my rear 7260 went AWOL after just a couple of Power-Shifts.
I put a 1350 on the front and a 7290 on the rear, and got rid of that CF-II disc; which has been working pretty good for me, ever since.

Except, the factory 340 discs which I like, sometimes barely make it thru the summer. But in regular driving, the factory disc is a sweetheart.
BTW
Those 340 discs fail in multiple ways, usually the spring-pockets fail, and a couple of the springs go AWOL.
Sometimes the linings get shredded.
One time when I pulled it out for vibration, the hub was in the process of fracturing out, which if it had, I wouldda been walking.
One time, the springs were still in the pockets, so I welded the fractured carrier and put it back in. That part worked fine after that, but then the linings blew off. lol.
When I think about it; in over 100,000 miles, I have never replaced a worn-out clutch disc; only broken ones. lol..
 
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Thanks for the input gents. I measured the width of the ends and they're the same, around 2.9 inches so that's not an issue. I'll go with it to the rear.

And that whole dropping a driveshaft isn't unknown here. Had it happen in a '73 Challenger at the transmission and while it was only "city driving" the *** end of the car still popped up a couple feet before it slammed to the ground at a dead stop. Lucky I wasn't in traffic...
 
With a 4-speed, you should probably run 7290 or better U-joints. So, if your shaft has one 7260, and yur not running a driveshaft loop, I would install it at the rear. That way, when she breaks and and the driveshaft falls down, it doesn't catapult your car into next Tuesday.
the whole driveshaft catapult has been disproven.

catastrophic damages, yes. yeeting a car to the week next, no.

big u-joints and DS loop is always a good idea.
 
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