Dropping the Slant

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Just "dropped" my 225 slant, complete with K-frame and transmission out of the bottom. I'll never do it any other way again. This was a joy it was so easy and I did it all by myself...with the help of a floor jack and cherry picker. Took me about 6-7 hours. I move slow and meticulous...Zen and the Art of Mopar.

I put together a little "recipe" for doing this as I thought through the process and wrote it all down, but lost my notes. Here is a quick overview from what I recall and I'm probably overlooking a few things but hopefully it will help somebody else considering doing this.

-Penetrating oil on all of the typical stubborn bolts a day before you start this endeavor.
-Put car on 4 jack stands, as high as possible. 2 under rear axle, 2 under front subframe. Throw some extra "Oh ****!" safety devices under your car if you feel necessary. I always place the front tires and some spare steel wheels at critical points in case the jack stands give or the car falls off of them under earthquake-like conditions.
-Dix (disconnect) the battery.
-Start draining your radiator while you crawl under the car and start unbolting the following; drive shaft, shifter and kick-down linkage, speedo cable, neutral safety switch. Leave the trans cooler lines on the tranny.
-Dix and label engine bay wiring; alternator, starter, etc.
-Dix steering shaft from steering gear box. Mine is a manual box. More steps required if you have power steering.
-Remove exhaust from manifold if possible. I cut my exhaust loose with a Saws All about 12-14" below the manifold.
-Once radiator is drained, remove hoses and trans cooler lines. Pull radiator.
-Remove alternator and brackets. This provides some extra wiggle room on the passenger side.
Remove the fan (I didn't do this and missed the wiggle room).

===SUSPENSION===
-Relax the torsion bars completely.
-Disconnect brakes at the hard lines.
-Remove shocks.
-Use ball joint separator and and drop assembly from upper control arm. I placed a wheel/tire under mine to rest the brake and lower arm assembly on.
-Remove torsion bars, the easy way. Loosen strut rod bolts and wiggle the lower control arm back and forth to break the TBars loose. Rubber mallet to the front where the TB is to help it. This works so surprisingly well! No special Tbar tool required. Mine popped out.
-Optional: remove lower control arm assembly. Once I had the LCAs dropped and the Tbars out, it was just another 10 minutes to pull the whole lower control arm assembly.

===DROP ENGINE===
The trick here is to use your cherry picker, hooked to your engine and lower engine down to a waiting Mover's Dolly below.

-Hook up your cherry picker to the slant. I put one bolt in the front, one in the back on the transmission with my chain run between.
-Hook another chain between two front bumper bolts.
-Use cherry picker to apply a little lift to the engine.
-Loosen lower motor mount bolts a little so you don't have to struggle with them too much once the engine is out of the car.
-Pull the 4 K frame bolts
-Carefully lower the engine down to your dolly. I used a little piece of 4" x 4" under front of engine to balance it out on the dolly.
-If everything was disconnected properly you should now be ready to lift the car with the cherry picker using the other chain that is bolted to the frame with the bumper bolts.
-Lift car until frame is above the highest point of the engine. The carb in my case.
-Rotate tran tailshaft out first and then pull the whole assembly.
-Open a beer and pat yourself on the back for a fine job.
 

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Good work. I also wonder why people fuss so much in getting T-bars out. No special tools needed. I just pry the LCA back with a crowbar, whack it forward while pulling the T-bar back, and repeat. Usually pops out after 2 times. The only thing holding it in the LCA is old grease. Of course, unload it fully and remove the rear clip first. However, from photos of Canadian and European cars, I can see where they could be rusted together.
 
Good work. I also wonder why people fuss so much in getting T-bars out. No special tools needed. I just pry the LCA back with a crowbar, whack it forward while pulling the T-bar back, and repeat. Usually pops out after 2 times. The only thing holding it in the LCA is old grease. Of course, unload it fully and remove the rear clip first. However, from photos of Canadian and European cars, I can see where they could be rusted together.
Thanks. I missed a lot of little...and important details in my write up. T-bar rear clips...trans cross member. Oops! Oh well, once you crawl under your car and carefully "take it all in" before beginning to turn wrenches, it's easy to see what needs to be unbuckled. Just remember, safety first! Especially when lying under 3k pounds of old car.
 
Good deal. Just curious... why did you raise the back end?

It helps when you have to crawl under it and get to the drive shaft and other items. I think it gives extra ground clearance also when you finally get to the point where you can wheel the motor/tranny out from under the car.
 
I didn't have any problem with rolling everything out on the dolly. It would have been nice to have more space getting under though. It was a stretch reaching to disconnect stuff. Part of why I kept mine on ground was I wasn't sure how high I'd be able to lift the car. Still the whole thing went smooth out and back in the same way, so no complaints here...
 
OK maybe I missed something but just what work does this avoid by not taking it out the top that would offset all the suspension and frame work needed to take it out the bottom? I have a slant with a cracked block drivers side low front and may be facing this soon. (64 dart gt conv)
 
I think I have missed something too. I have never done it that way and it is one of the things you never know until you try it. But it does seem like a lot of extra work.
 
Lowering the engine/tranny w/ K-frame is best if you also need to rebuild the suspension and steering (normal on an old car you just bought). Otherwise, I think lifting the engine/tranny out the top is probably easier, but drill small locating holes to get the hood back on right or you will spend a long time fiddling with that later.
 
That way sure makes header work easier. Headers in these cars usually require you to pull the studs out of the heads to get them on as there is no room to pull them outboard. For a block repair, i would pick it out. For restoration work or added suspension rebuild, out the bottom.
 
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