dual brake mastercylinder

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69DARTS

69DARTS

69 Darts Rule
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
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Location
indiana
Staying with drums
but want to convert over to
dual mastercylinder. Manual
what all do I need
 
Any more insight on this? Possible master cylinder number or what has anyone else used that did the job. I would like to do this conversion also. I have a 66 Valiant that has manual 10" drum brakes that uses a single master.
 
I would get the 15/16 master set up from DrDiff and a 67-up drum prop valve
 
Thank you, but who is DrDiff. Is he a member? Web site link?
 
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Reliability is best w/ later 2-bolt aluminum MC and 2-4 adapter plate. Most use a 1980's Dodge truck MC. Dr Diff packages that for ~$90. Did you try google? Might find him on ebay. I bought adapter plates there ($30). I used MC from 95-99 Breeze w/ ABS in my 64 Valiant. See post w/ photos. Factory brake rod worked fine. If you prefer the rusty cast-iron look, a late 70's Dart MC will work. Best to use silicone fluid with those since the top covers often leak and dribbling glycol removes paint real well.

Drums or disk doesn't matter, other than really old MC's that have a residual valve in the port for drums. A "disk MC" can work fine w/ drums. A manual MC supposedly has a groove in the piston to capture the rubber bushing on the tip of the brake rod. I couldn't get the rod out without destroying a new bushing when I used the "power" Breeze MC, so seems to work regardless. If you plumb in a proportioning valve for later front disks, I think you can still adjust it to work fine with a drum-drum setup. I did so.
 
What about a line kit
I am staying with drums front and rear
but just want a dual master cylinder
 
Like many, I re-used all my hard lines and distribution block and just added a little extra plumbing and adapters. Autozone sells a 1/4M to 3/16F inverted-flare adapter for the new 3/16" "front" tube from MC (aft port). They also sell a 3/16F to 3/16F inverted-flare union to connect a new "rear" tube from the MC (fwd port) to your existing "rear" tube and a plug for where it used to connect to the dist. block. I plumbed an adj prop. valve in that run, installed beside the MC (used booster cable bracket from Intrepid). Search for my several posts w/ PN's (don't PM me).

The factory tubes for later dual MC's had loops. Wonder why they did that since the MC doesn't move relative to the body. Perhaps it was so mechanics had extra tube for when rusted ones invariably twist off when replacing an MC. I just ran them straight (as 65 factory did).
 
I converted my 64 Valiant 9" brakes to a dual cylinder MC. I ordered a 1967 a body drum brake MC from Rockauto. Bought the correct MC fittings from NAPA (no adaptors) as I like to use the fewest joints as possible, plus it's cleaner. Fewer joints=less chance for leaks.(One is 9/16"-20 and the other is 1/2"-20 x 3/16" brake line IIRC) I bent and flared new brake lines from bulk roll tubing and mounted a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve on the frame rail under the firewall. This car will probably get a brake upgrade in the future so I'm already set up for whatever that will be. (Except for a disc MC) The original manual brake rod from the single pot MC worked perfectly, a direct swap, as was the dual MC. I eliminated all factory fittings and used a simple brass tee to split the front brake line to left and right brakes.
 
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