You have to go by the "U" cutout in the diagram. Your mounting may be different so you are looking at it "upside down." If it is a 4 pin, one of the 4 only goes one place......to the ECU
NO you don't need a two pin. After you "clean up" the old ECU wiring,, take everything else that is left and hook it all together as mentioned.
Don't let things throw you off. Eliminate 1 pin at a time
You have one pin of the ECU going directly to the ballast and NO other place. eliminate
You have two going from ECU direct to old distributor........eliminate
One wire goes from ECU to the junction that is switched 12V.....either eliminate if it goes to a splice, or "bring it out" and use for you "new" run wire
One wire goes from ECU to coil NEG.....eliminate
"What's left" all gets spliced together.........no resistor
You need to check before you button it all up
"With the key in run"
The blue wire going to one field terminal of the alternator should be hot
Your ignition should get power
The voltage regulator blue wire should have power
then watch your test lamp or meter as you twist the key to start........the "run" wire for the ignition should now be getting power in both start and run.
Here's "part of" the entire point of this:
THERE IS only one "run" source under the hood....one wire comes out of the bulkhead, and originally branched off to feed the ignition resistor, the VR, the blue alternator field, and if equipped, some smog du dads 340s that came with idle solenoids, etc
BUT THE RUN wire goes "dead" in start. Originally this was taken care of by the "bypass" circuit.
This circuit is a separate contact in the ignition switch labled "IGN2" and is hot ONLY is "start." It normally is BROWN, and goes only one place....out through the bulkhead to the coil+ side of the ballast
THAT WIRE is what the "I" terminal on Ferds, Chivvies, and AMC does....gives you ignition power in "start." You must have "it" or it won't get ignition power in "start."
