Duster Build Question?

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J

jeeper

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I just yesterday purchased my first V8 Duster and I am quite excited about it. I have been collecting parts here and there for some time now.

What I was wondering, was is there a website that has a sequential build-up of an A body from stock to fairly quick? Something where they provide a before and after for some simple mods.

I seem to be finding some information about builds and the results, but most do not cover it in a more sequential fashion.

Any ideas?

Thanks for your time, ROB
 
I guess it would be helpful if I gave you some background on myself and my goals. I am a shop teacher and have spent many years building trucks from stock to 40" tires with body swaps etc. I am quite aware of what changes will net what results with the trucks.

I used to be a car guy, like 15 years ago. I had a Mustang or two. I did the cam and intake swap etc. A set of gears really helped. In about 1996 a freind of mine took me out in his Mopar with a tired 360 and it was hands down better than any of my old Stangs. I never missed them after that, still don't.

I just purchased a 73 Duster with a 318,904 and a 7 1/4 rear, minimal options. It is a one owner, but they did use it and it does have some wear. It is all stock mechanically. Like down to the choke that actually works and the factory exhaust from 73.

I know the 318 can run, I have a freind that does pretty well with one.

Budget is a problem, since I am finishing yet another "monster truck". That does not mean that there is no money, but new crate motors are not an option!

However, I do have the following pieces now:

Edelbrock 750 CFM (too big)
Edelbrock 600 CFM
several factory Thermoquads
A Holley Street Dominator intake-low rise single plane
302 casting heads-I need to check them over.
A good pile of 360 stuff and other parts.

I think step one is going to be headers with a 2.5" exhaust.

What difference is an exhaust going to make on an otherwise bone stock car?

Thanks for your time, ROB

BTW-My kids are going to help me/actually do the work.
 
Hello Rob...."RESEARCH" that is the word of the day..Go to some good Mopar sites, Mopar magazine archives, etc. There are some great tech articles/info out there. Mopar Muscle magazine is one..."moparts.com" is helpful. And don't forget car shows, drag races, talk to owners, pick their brains....
My experience, which has been limited up to this point, headers and gears w/posi, made my stock 340 come alive.. Puting the right parts together makes all the difference...
Don't forget that "Direct Connection" from Mopar is back in business, check them out.
Good Luck....
 
Trying to upgrade a tired engine is a losing battle. Headers and exhaust will wake it up but you will be on it that much more which will wear out whats left of the rings and bearings and valves.
 
I'd start at www.moparmusclemagazine.com as they have quite a few a bodies in the readers rides and featured vehicle sections and give pretty good drive train combos. :evil2: :burnout:

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why not clean up the bottom with new main bearing's,
and a new cam and lifter's'Just a R,V style :thumblef:
and then ign then gear's, " good raidiator."
set of J or X head's then thet her roll. :drinkers:
Just a thought from an old A body southern boy :notworth:
 
Tomorrow I drive it to work for the first time. The engine was rebuilt not long ago and it seems to run like it. I am so used to old cars not running very well that it is quite cool to have one idle and run good!

I guess I should have see what I have first and then decide.

Thanks for the pointers, ROB
 
I recently purchased a 72' V8 Duster myself. A 360 w/ wild Lunati Cam, old edelbrock ld340 manifold, a 850 holley with choke horns removed (now 935 cfm) Msd unit, n of course headers, manual reverse valve body 727, 8 3/4 w/ 4.11 and Strange axles. Supposedly (crossing fingers), this car ran 12.20 1/4mi. on street tires and will spin 8,000rpm. It's a stock car stuffed with a monster of an engine. I have only driven it a few times due to the frt. end and brakes being shot. Sure feels like a muscle car :) Anyway, I also have a 73' Duster 6 cyl. on which I have been replacing / sectioning new panels (yeah it's true... Ruster) Gonna add the 10pt cage and subframe connectors, then swap from the 72-73 all the goodies, relocate battery in trunk. Will that give ya an idea of what ya need.. I'll post pics n let ya know how it goes !
 
73, good deal, disc brakes, large bolt pattern?

This link may give you some engine ideas to start with. I used a few myself with some bolt-ons. 318, 290-310 HP

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/4bbl.html

mine was driveway rebuilt, with lots of swearing and a box or two of band-aids. :thumblef:

scan0003.jpg
 
Here are a couple of good articles about 318's. There's an awesome one that AdamR stuck in the tech archives that has 7 (maybe more) proven 360 combinations that sound great! The last link is the one to the 360 page, even if you're not using a 360 the information is very helpful in understanding what works and what doesn't.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=7901
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=1174
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=1175

I'm working on a 318 as well, so far I have headers, 600 CFM eddy, RPM air-gap, and a jumped timing chain :)
 
Edelbrock 750 CFM (too big)
Edelbrock 600 CFM
several factory Thermoquads
A Holley Street Dominator intake-low rise single plane
302 casting heads-I need to check them over.
A good pile of 360 stuff and other parts.

I think step one is going to be headers with a 2.5" exhaust.

What difference is an exhaust going to make on an otherwise bone stock car?
Click to expand...
1. IMO, as listed, Yes, toooo, big
2. More than likely, just right
3. A better carb than the above units, tuning can be a pain if your not used to the T-Q and parts are not at the corner store.
4. Not a fan of that intake, but use whatcha got. I know what on the cheap is and I'm doing it now.
I5. n general, those are probably the best heads to upgrade to or at least refurbish.
6. 360 parts can do well if your looking to really pump up the 318.
7. 2-1/2 exhaust pipe for no less than a 300 HP engine or you'll make the bottom end soft. It is a good size to go for in the future of the build.

You'll need to find out how far down the hole the pistons sits along with head gasket dimentions and cylinder head cc volume to know the compresion ratio.
The an idea of where the car is to perform. (Or how much performance your looking for. ET or 1/4 times useful.)
I would seriously change that rear out. An 8-1/4 or 8-3/4 should be used. The smaller 7 will die under abuse of regular 318 abuse.
Click here for a 318 build; http://www.geocities.com/alwest_83/318
I would myself start with the rear first, then exhaust followed by the cam and cabr/intake combo. Then stall conveter if wanted or needed.
 
I'm off to get some parts today. It is a large bolt pattern, manual disk car. I really like it, it is weird getting used to the steering though. Way overassisted........I know they are but I could steer this thing with my pinky finger broken in a parking lot. I found some hoses that are either OEM or close to it.

Research this weekend. I have been building this car in my head for about 10 years. I have bought and read most books that I could find as well as worked on a few. The weird thing is that this is the first one that I have driven. Nice to drive them instead of take them apart etc.

Thanks for the help, ROB
 
If you can steer it with your finger the alignment is way off, Probably Caster. look for worn frt end parts
 
It may be alignment. It does however drive pretty good and is very easy to keep on the road other than the extremely light feel of the steering.

It is very weird.

BTW- I did my first burnout yesterday with this car...........Yeah baby!

I am preparing it for a trip to the track here shortly. I really want to run it bone stock and then compare it with each major upgrade.

Thanks for the help, ROB
 
Go to your alignment shop .. too much negative caster i think , I'm allmost sure of it. I'll post some specs if ya need, once i find them again my self. Face it a-bodys are a pain to align, you can spend several days getting it just right. Dont try it with a worn suspension , just not worth the time on the alignment rack.
 
OK. Coming from the large bias ply Jeep crowd, I'm used to things not driving 100% like normal, but it does seem to be way too easy to steer.

Better call it in.

Thanks, ROB
 
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