Duster master cylinder setup suggestions

[hemi68charger]

Hey gang...
Have a question.... Helping another friend with this. He has this '71 Duster with a blown 440 with the fender well headers...... He is potentially going to replace the fender well headers with "framerail headers", for a lack of a better term. I noticed that the master cylinder was WAY close to the headers ( setup by the previous owner ). The proportioning valve is also repositioned in the area where the battery USED to be. I was thinking of utilizing one of the OEM offset brackets that are used for the power brakes on A-bodies if that is at all possible. Then, we would reposition the proportioning valve to its original position and then get ALL new brake lines. I have suggested that we restore his complete system since it looks real old and the car has a LOT of power....... Safety, safety, safety......

 

[hemi68charger]

This is the adapter I was looking to use ( an idea, I'm not an A-body guy ).. Will this work? The car will remain manual brakes, so can we install the master cylinder directly to the adapter and go for it? Or, is there an aftermarket product out there to help position the master cylinder up and out away from the headers....

 

[bOb shingler]

if you think it will work, give it a try. it seems like a mighty good idea. there is also a shield that protects the mc from the heat when it is that close to the headers.

 

[airgrabber]

If you use the power brake booster it may work, but w/o the booster you may have fab work to do to get the master to bolt to the bracket w/o the booster, and to get the pedal action to work the master. IIRC there's some sort of bell crank linkage in the middle of the booster to firewall bracket that moves the pedal travel up a few inches.
Might also look at some older Dodge vans. I recall a number of them mounted the master at 90 degrees to the firewall, making it parallel to the radiator. It too has a bell crank linkage of sorts to change the pedal travel in the desired direction.