Duster overheats with 26“ Radiator

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jakuzzie

jakuzzie

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Have a 318 mostly modified with matching Edelbrock parts.
The past years I got a three row aluminum radiator installed. Never got over 180 (mechanical fan and two overpowerd electric fans as pusher - second one never runs).

Lately I installed the original 26“ radiator with shroud and overflow bottle. It looks so much better but now it goes up to 230 (both electric fans running).

So obviously it’s the 26“ rad but that thing should cool down a 340 without electrical fans.
Is it a bottleneck in the cooling system or should it work fine?
16lbs radiator cap is new.

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Nice car! Does it overheat in traffic or on the open road? That radiator should easily cool your engine. Did you have the original radiator recored? It is possible that the waterflow through the radiator is inadequate. You might want to use an infrared thermometer and check several areas of the radiator to see if there is consistent temperature drop (hotter at the top and cooler as you go toward the bottom).
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
Nice car! Does it overheat in traffic or on the open road? That radiator should easily cool your engine. Did you have the original radiator recored? It is possible that the waterflow through the radiator is inadequate. You might want to use an infrared thermometer and check several areas of the radiator to see if there is consistent temperature drop (hotter at the top and cooler as you go toward the bottom).
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Thanks! Got it nut and bolt restored with my dad.
The radiator is completely untouched.
I will try it.
 
jakuzzie said:
Thanks! Got it nut and bolt restored with my dad.
The radiator is completely untouched.
I will try it.
Click to expand...
If you look into the top, do the cores look clean or do they have some buildup of minerals on them? The OE radiators had pretty small water passages so would not take a lot of buildup to inhibit water flow.
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
If you look into the top, do the cores look clean or do they have some buildup of minerals on them? The OE radiators had pretty small water passages so would not take a lot of buildup to inhibit water flow.
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Looks clean but I cleaned it with a water hose and flushed it. So probably the top is clean and below it’s not.
 
jakuzzie said:
Looks clean but I cleaned it with a water hose and flushed it. So probably the top is clean and below it’s not.
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I would get a container of coolant flush and flush your engine. Be sure to follow the directions. Also, be sure to use ONLY distilled water and nothing else. Any other water can have impurities like calcium that will stick to the surfaces and cause flow restriction through the radiator. If after flushing the engine the temperature is still too high, I would take the radiator to a radiator shop and have them check it out. It might need a new core.
 
check for a collapsing lower radiator hose
 
What water pump and what pulley diameters/ratios do you have?

The electric pushers shouldn’t be needed at all, which goes for the aluminum 3 core you had before and the OE radiator you have now.
 
Brought it to a radiator shop. They just called me and said the core needs to be replaced. I think the problem should be solved after this. In two weeks I let you know.
 
New copper core.

90 degrees outside and doesn’t overheat anymore. Getting close to 200 all without the electric fans.

Full success :thumbsup:

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